We are 2 kiwis leaving London and embarking on a long and meandering ride home. It is more than 12 000 miles! We are not athletes, just ordinary people who like to pass through countries rather than passing over them, meeting the people, experiencing the nature and the life. We will travel by bicycle, boat, and train. We hope to make it at least half way without taking a plane.
Some background from Nigel
Introduction:
If asked I'd find it hard to pin point how my interest in cycling began. It certainly wouldn't have been my first cycling memory, as a five year old getting my little toe skinned in the back spokes of my brothers Raleigh sixteen.
It probably goes back to when I was about eleven and the rides I used to take with friends. I lived in Cromwell, Central Otago, at the conference of untamed Clutha and Kawarau rivers. Our house was the old convent just above dead mans point. That was the spot where a hundred years earlier a cable had been strung across the Clutha, the last slim chance of saviour for numerous unfortunate gold panners swept off their feet upstream.
Cromwell sits between the old man and sugar loaf ranges. Once on the bed of a huge inland sea, it had a moon like landscape and was practically silent, you could hear a dog bark at the other end of town. It sat amongst an expanse of wasteland from the gold rush diggings of the 1840's, the hills dotted with old panners stone cottages, neglected through time like the sun bleached shells of 1920's cars parked in adjacent paddocks.
Around this time I made what I guess I could claim to be my first tour. It was with my cousin Ian, we rode 16 Kilometres to Sandy Kings, a local trout fishing and swimming hole where we set up our tent and camped and fished for a few days. We survived on chicken sandwiches until the chicken went green and we were easily out witted by the big old rainbow trout we could see in the water.
A couple of years later for my birthday I got a brand new ten speed bike. I trained hard and went on my first proper tour of seven days with my older brother Ray. We rode over the steep and rough terrain of the Nelson lakes district in the peak of the summer heat. We were even caught in a flash flood when we had naively camped on a small island on the Pelorus river. Still, I knew then that that was the way to travel for me. I managed a few short tours but it was almost twenty years before I had the opportunity to do some real exploring.
In December 1999 I flew to England to go travelling with my (then) girlfriend Sonya.
Our trip started in a fairly ramshackle way with a short flight from London to Malaga (Spain) just in time to spend Christmas in a bleak and wintery Torremolinos.
I had advised Sonya with the full authority of optimistic naivety (unfortunately I could hardly blame youth as I was 32 years old) that we would be catching trains to our days destination then using our bikes to get to campsites or for doing pleasant day trips. We soon found out to our shock and Sonya's dismay that the sparking Andalucian train that pulled up to the Torremolenos station did not take bikes and we would have to find some other means of reaching our destination.
Out onto the south coast highway we rode (two weeks later deemed a Motorway). Motorcycles went past at what I guess was over a hundred mile an hour and we read horror stories of a group of cyclists recently killed at an on ramp nearby. Still somehow we made it to Gibraltar and Algeciras where we caught the ferry to Tangier (Morrocco)
We planned to head south for the winter and ride for as long as the 2000 quid each had would last.
The 2000 each had lasted 210 days and we had cycled around 4600 miles around Morocco, Mediterranean and central Europe. We had spent a third of our nights staying in hotels another third wild camping or with people we had met along the way and the other third in camping grounds.
We went home for the rest of the year and were married the following year in New Plymouth by my brother in law Dave Chadfield (Happy Chaddy) and had our reception in my sister Kathleen's restaurant.
In 2001 we returned to England with the intention of making some money and going travelling before going home a couple of years later. I would never have imagined London could be such a desirable place to live.
We have finally decided to go home to New Zealand. It's hard to imagine it as home after being away for so long. The town we are returning to (New Plymouth) I haven't lived in for fourteen years and Sonya although born there has never really lived there at all.
Starting in mid April in about three weeks time we plan to cycle for around seven and a half months, riding the paths alongside the rivers and canals of western Europe while we get fit then crossing into Switzerland and ride the undulating terrain in southern Germany & Austria then following the greenways path through Czech Republic and Poland eventually taking us up to St Petersburg. From here we will catch a train to Moscow, another to Lake Baikal, then we'll ride to Ulaan Bataar in Mongolia before catching a train to Beijing, From here we aren't sure but we hope to end up in Bangkok probably going via Vietnam and Cambodia.
We should be home for Christmas. I will probably be celebrating have my fortieth birthday somewhere in China or Vietnam. We plan to start riding in about three weeks time on the 15th of April 2007.
This story will tell of our trials and tribulations of our day to day riding.
London 22nd March
Today's ride to work was through icy sleet. I find it hard to believe that last week it was 19 degrees Celsius. For the past couple of months I have been riding my bike six miles to work and back each day and Sonya has been going to the Gym. We have done a few weekend rides on unloaded bikes but otherwise we are not particularly fit.
Health wise we have spent a small fortune on every conceivable inoculation and pill to ward off Rabies, Tick borne encephalitis, Japanese B encephalitis, typhoid, malaria and a host of others.
In preparation we have fitted front low rider racks and purchased panniers to match.
We have purchased just about every conceivable piece of technology in order to make us more self sufficient and using a 12watt solar panel I can charge up the Garmin Quest GPS, two mobile phones, the PD170 video camera, The Nikon D70 still camera, but unfortunately not the Vaio T140 notebook.
After so much time taken to get from London to Hong Kong overland it was a bit of shock to be stepping off a plane just 10 hours later in Auckland airport (New Zealand). It shocked not only us, but many of our supporters who seemed somewhat let down to realise the final leg of our journey had been made in such a ridiculously short time. With the bicycles each weighing 18kg there had not been much luggage allowance left for anything else! Luckily my parents were waiting there to make the landing a bit easier and to escort us and our poor bicycles, having lost their status and being reduced to a small sack, down to Tauranga. Our final destination was New Plymouth and Yes we could have ridden back there, another few hundred kilometres
... read moreThe sign in Yangshuo announced that London was 9000km away and our speedo had also just reached 9000km. But we had also covered about 8000km by train and bus, meaning we must have travelled a most indirect route! And finally we had decided it was time to lose our ‘bonkers’ label (thanks George!) and return to some kind of normality back in New Zealand. An overnight ‘sleeper’ bus took us from Yangshou to Shenzen. ‘Sleeper’ because it’s a nice idea, you lie down with your head raised, and your feet go under the head of the person in front of you, but unfortunately spend the whole night sliding down and crushing your toes in the small space. We had the deluded idea that we would be dropped by the Chinese/Hong Kong border, but instead found ourselves
... read moreAs we approached Guilin rock formations mushroomed out of the land. We saw an even stranger sight, Chinese cyclists wearing helmets! Two days later, riding next to the famous Li jiang river, we met an American and a Chinese English teacher, also riding bicycles. They were a little concerned that we were taking the back road to Xingping, as we had not had lunch. Apparently there was nowhere on route to get food. So Bob (the English teacher) approached a shop owner at the small village just before the turn off and asked him if we could cook at his place! He closed up his small shop and led us to his home. Then Bob cooked for us a delicious but simple meal of noodles with egg and spring onion. Bob had not cooked in 5
... read moreWe passed out of Miao territory and into Dong territory, eventually emerging back on the tourist trail at Zhaoxing. Dong woman wear a slightly understated version of the Miao traditional dress, the hemp with indigo dye is still used, but with less decoration. Here in Zhaoxing, the village resounded with hammering, not only were many new wooden buildings springing up amongst the age old ones, but hemp for traditional clothing was being beaten until it developed a sheen. Away from the picturesque drum towers and bridges of Zhaoxing were narrow back alleys. In one I discovered a man blow torching rats in preparation for cooking them! The process of blow torching them removes their hairs. He proudly held up one for me to examine. A final day of exquisite riding led us back to the main
... read moreWe arrived in Guiyang off an overnight train from Chengdu. On the train we met a Chinese student (Judy) studying English as her major. We enjoyed conversation and she also helped us to retrieve our bicycles at Guiyang. During the conversation she warned us about ‘chiefs and robs’ in the area we are planning to cycle in. As this area is famous for its ethnic minority groups (aka hill tribes) I had in my mind an image of an angry chief! (however she was actually referring to ‘thieves and robbers’) China’s railway service was taking such good care of our bicycles, we decided to save ourselves another 200km and sent our bikes on from Guiyang to Kaili, where we rejoined them for the next stage of our journey. Kaili is a small city bordering the hill
... read moreArriving in Chengdu, we did not have any definite onward plans. We decided to rest there and contemplate our next move and we ended up staying a week. Chengdu is a city with the population of London, but much more compact. Like London it has 3 ring roads. It was fun to be in a really big city again. We stayed in a Chinese hotel on the edge of town and got about the city by bus. Chengdu has a couple of major attractions within easy reach, the Giant Panda research centre, and the Leshan giant Buddha, the largest Buddha in the world at 71m high. We enjoyed checking these out and also the local Buddhist monastery. Sadly, outside the monastery, we saw some beggars in very poor health, with open wounds and distorted limbs as
... read more China has welcomed in a new era of cycle touring for us. Not only do we fit right in on our bikes, but the tent and cooker have become redundant and we no longer need to carry extra water. Villages are plentiful, and hotels are amazingly cheap although they vary hugely in quality. Food is also very cheap, and China seems like the land of plenty after the paucity of ingredients in Mongolia. And on the whole, we are having success ordering vegetarian food. We can say ‘I am vegetarian’ and show them the phrase. We also show them our wordless communication book and point at the pictures and say ‘bu yao’ (‘don’t want’) pointing at the meat and ‘yao’ (want) pointing at the vegetables. Then we move onto ‘yo’ (have) to establish what ingredients
... read moreOr 9 million and 2 with us! so the song goes, although Beijing today is definitely ruled by the car. Still, we have seen some impressive loads being hauled around by bike, including house removals, mattresses and household effects on trailers pulled by bikes. Electric bikes are also very common and a practical alternative in Beijing as it’s very flat. Beijing is almost disappointing easy to navigate, after Moscow, because of the dual labelling in Pinyin (romanic script) and also there are many English signs. Here I was expecting to have to match characters on a map to those on a sign, and actually that’s not at all necessary. Well let’s wait and see when we get to the country side, maybe things will be different and quite impossible and I’ll be eating my words! In
... read moreEnough of couch surfing, it was time for ger surfing! With good friends in town and the Chinese embassy closed for visa processing due to a week long holiday, it was time to escape the polluted streets of Ulaan Bataar and escape for some fresh air. With a little encouragement, our friends persuaded us to leave our bikes and share a Russian van with them for a few nights. . We awoke on the day of departure to a snow covered and still snowing city, and an icy wind blowing. To our disappointment, a modern jeep arrived instead of a Russian van. But as we headed into the suburbs, our driver had second thoughts about taking his vehicle into the stormy weather, and called for a back-up! At last we had the hoped for Russian van.
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