Today, I backpack into the scenic heart of Grand Teton National Park, Cascade Canyon. The canyon starts on the far side of Jenny Lake. The first part of the trail is incredibly popular. It’s so popular, the park runs a shuttle across the lake to the trailhead. Unfortunately, the popularity meant I would be tripping over people on the first part of the hike. I figured this problem would diminish as I went up the canyon. Hidden Falls The boat shuttle is very quick, and the view is beautiful. Grand Teton and its neighbors tower over the lake, and grow as the boat crosses. It ends at a wooden dock next to a wooded cliff. A trail climbs the... read more

Lewis and Moose Falls Today is the day for Wyoming’s other national park, Grand Teton. Before going there, I had to drive out of Yellowstone. Since all Yellowstone roads are scenic, it provided one last taste of Wonderland. First up, I crossed the Continental Divide again, this time for the last time in a while. Other than the sign, I would not have even noticed the pass. From there, the road ran along the shore of Lewis Lake. In many ways, the lake appears like a much smaller version of Lake Yellowstone, blue water surrounded by pine trees with mountains in the background. Finally, the road passed Lewis Falls, another wide curtain waterfall. Lewis Fal... read more

Today was another long day of the best and worst of Yellowstone. It started with the type of wildlife jam that knowledgeable visitors do NOT want to see. A black bear was sitting directly next to the road. While it provides an unbeatable photograph (see ) it’s also incredibly dangerous. Anyone who gets out of their car runs a high risk of becoming the bear’s scratching post. Rangers blocked the road until one arrived with a bull horn and scared the bear away. Mount Washburn After passing that incident, the road began to climb. It ran along a ridge above Antelope Valley, one of the best grizzly bear habitats in the park. People are prohibited from ent... read more

I spent most of my time today in the museum many call the Smithsonian of the West, the Buffalo Bill Historic Center. It is a complex of five museums, all related to the west in one form or another. The museums cover Buffalo Bill, the natural history of Yellowstone, plains Indians, western art, and firearms. All of them are through and engaging. Buffalo Bill Cody The complex was originally founded to honor Buffalo Bill Cody, with a museum on his life. He was born in Iowa in 1846 and grew up in Kansas. As a teenager, he may have ridden for the Pony Express (see ). During the Civil War, he joined the Union Army as a scout. Afterward, he worked for several railroads, hunting and supplying buffa... read more

I headed west today, into Wyoming. When crossing the border, one sees the highway stretching away in the distance by a long mountain ridge. I thought at first these were the Rocky Mountains. In reality, they are the last gasp of the Black Hills. My main target, Devil’s Tower, lies within them. There are three roads to get there. I ultimately chose the long northern route, because it is the most scenic. The first part goes through rolling ranch land, with the mountains in the distance. Slabs of sandstone start appearing in the hills. The road ultimately enters a valley, on par with what the rest of the Black Hills has to offer. Along the way, it passes a town sign that I had to stop and reread, just to make sure it was not a ... read more