"Blame the Chileans!" grunts the Argentinian driver, explaining why the bus was running five hours late thanks to a strike at the border. The overland journey from Rio Gallegos to Ushuaia, both in Argentina, has the bureaucratic inconvenience of passing through Chile. That means four border controls, each time off the bus, queue up, fill out the forms, passports stamped and bags checked. For this both the Argentinians and the Chileans can be blamed, both countries claiming their piece of Tierra del Fuego (nevermind the now extinct indigenous inhabitants). Within a few hours we had left Argentina, entered Chile, crossed the Strait of Magellan in a ferry, left Chile and re-entered Argentina. Finally after all the stopping and starting, we clocked up the mileage along the Ruta 3, hitting Km 3000 as darkness fell. Then suddenly
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