My first visit to Cambodia was back in 1997, less than a week after the military coup. That was 19 years ago, and that week, they sold 20 tickets per day to Angkor Temples. We had Angkor for ourselves at 3pm! Times were also slightly different. You could not see the sunrise that week, as they would mine the road between Angkor Wat and Siem Reap at night. They, yes, we speak about the former Khmer Rouge that were still hiding in the forest. Forget also about going off the provided roads...mines were everywhere! Pol Pot was still alive, hiding in the countryside. Back in 1997 I spent few nights in Phnom Penh. Street were not paved, tourists not yet back, the beer was already 1usd at the FCC bar, and every single mini-hotel had a
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