Arrived late at hotel so decided to have a lie-in today. We mooched about for a bit then headed to the fort for around 2pm. Getting in true geek mode we decided to rent the audio guide- really good. It's worth it, otherwise you're just looking at buildings and images with no idea what they're about. After spending three hours there we went to the markets- without a doubt the best ones yet. I've bought more cushion covers and throws for couches that I don't even have yet (Martin I promise our flat will not look like Indian Ikea gone bad!) Laura's weakness is bags so we bartered within an inch of our lives until the market closed at 7pm.... read more

Woke up at midday today. Got some breakfast and headed out to the street markets at about 2pm. Jaipur is supposed to be brilliant for shopping so we were quite looking forward to it. We decided to walk in and not get a taxi. You need to barter hard. We tried to explain the importance of Primark and how we could get this stuff dirt cheap in England- they see tourists and immediately double prices. I felt a bit homesick today- by this point we’d been groped and stroked in the market and you just have to get used to people stopping and staring at you. Also, I think there because there are no other tourists here at all- we’ve definitely come at a low season- we’re quite the novelty I think. Most places were closed ... read more

Left Agra at 1pm for another 5 hour bus journey to Jaipur. Got in around tea time…found a place to stay, got some tea then went to bed- pretty shattered. We’re choosing places with literally 2 beds and a shower- we are using Laura’s home made silk sheets as bedding. On average costing us 2 pounds each per night. ... read more

Land in Delhi at 11am local time (India is 5.5 hours ahead). Absolutely shattered. Indians beep their horns for no reason. There are no rules for the roads. A car, mini rickshaw taxis, motorbikes, camels, cows, pigs, people- they are all welcome on the road at one time. Or even a roundabout (true story!) Got to our hostel in the Paharganj area which, according to the guide book, isn’t everyone’s cup of tea/ downright seedy/ has reputation for drugs and very shady characters. Me and Laura slotted right in! Based on that we didn’t venture too far and went for a nice curry overlooking the square where we could safely watch what was going on. This involved watching little kids chasing a cow and beating it’s bum with a stick- caused havoc to the already crazy ... read more

Just starting to organise Visas and jabs in the baltic weather conditions (and working out how to use this blog!)... read more