John O´Halloran

JohnsJournal

I'm taking 6 months to travel the width and breadth of South America, with a month or so to follow in the Caribbean, Mexico and the USA. The trip begins with Carnival in Salvador, Brazil; and will end with The Burning Man in Nevada, USA.


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Budget flights dictate a slightly roundabout route to the first main destination - Salvador in the north of Brazil, for Carnival.


on the road!




Travel Blog Posts


Mexico and The Burning Man

Published: September 28th 2008North America » Mexico
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JohnsJournal
September 28th 2008

Landing in Mexico came as a bit of a relief after Cuba. After the bad food and the resulting food poisoning of Cuba, it was great to be able to buy quality food from supermarkets again. God bless Capitalism, at least where supermarkets are concerned! Cancun was the first stop in Mexico, and it represents just about everything that Mexico is not. It feels just like being in America - McDonalds, Burger Kings and Starbucks everywhere. Giant Hotels line the beach (which is restricted in use to hotel residents, unfairly excluding locals!), superclubs and shopping malls make up the rest of the 'Hotel Zone' area of town. It's built to service American tourists, which I'm sure it does quite well. It just doesn't hold a whole lot of appeal for me! Except of course for the ... read more



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August 1st 2008

Columbia is a country that facinates right up to the present day. Considered an no-go zone up until this decade, the current climate is vastly different. But for the visible presence of large numbers of army personnel along the main roads in the country, you wouldn't think the coutry was fighting a guerilla army called the FARC, much less that this FARC controlled large regions of the country. According to whom you listen, the FARC is either a torrorist group, or a Marxist-Lennonist revolutionary force. They were the military wing of the Communist party in the 1960's, but by the 1980's they had become involved in the drug trade, causing official seperation from the communist party. Nowadays it seems their goal is merely to preserve the status quo - to keep control of enough land and ... read more



Bolivia, Equador and Peru

Published: June 25th 2008South America » Peru
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June 24th 2008

La Paz fitted into alot of what I thought South America would be like before I arrived - chaotic, noisy, energetic. The motorists drive with their horns rather than with indicators; street stalls sell everything from fresh honey (so fresh, the bees are present) to lama foetuses; minibusses pass at every second shouting a list of destinations at all pedestrians. Right in the middle of a festival there, I was walking down the street, and was sure I could hear gushing water. Hardly someone going on the street I thought, surely not. I walked on, the gushing got louder, so I looked around for a guy going against a wall somewhere. Still nothing. Then I looked down to see the moon-bottom of a Bolivian woman squatting right in the middle of a group of undeterred people, ... read more



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May 15th 2008

After snow stopped us leaving Santiago for a few days, Dan and I made it back across the Chile-Argentina border (again!) for a spot of wine tasting in Mendoza. Mendoza is Argentina's largest wine producing region, bottling a staggering 720 million litres per year. We were sold the hostel on the basis that we would get free wine all day. Probably not the finest grape (nor in the safest area - my roommate was robbed on the street outside), but free wine is free wine. We took a trip around some of Mendoza's wineries on bicycle the following day. The bikes had seen better days - days in which the brakes actually worked! We got to see the wine production process, which with the noise and my not-so-perfect spanish translated as "it starts here, goes there, ... read more



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May 2nd 2008

Having reached the end of the continent at Ushuaia, the only way was north, and the only bus available was to El Calafate. So after a desperate last minute scramble, and a last night on the town at Ushuaia, I boarded the 6am bus north. El Calafate is a tourist town built to accomodate the many visitors who want to make the visit to Perito Moreno glaciar. Having seen a glaciar in Ushuaia, I imagined Perito Moreno to be something similar. That couldn't have been further from the truth! The glacier's vastness defies comprehension. It stretches for 30km, its face is 5km wide and it towers 60m above the surface of the water. It advances about 2m each day, accompanied by huge groans, and drops icebergs off its face at frequent intervals. It truly is one ... read more



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April 11th 2008

Iguazu Falls marked our departure from Brazil, for the time being at least. And it´s not a bad final memory to be left with. The falls (all 275 of them) are split between the Brazilianian and Argentinian teritory, and merit a visit from both sides. The Brazilian side gives you spectacular views of the entire waterfall system, whereas the Argentinian side lets you get up close and personal. We took a boat trip on the Argentinian side into the Devil´s throat - the largest of the system. The water pounds you that hard that its impossible to open your eyes at times. Needless to say, we got absolutely drenched, but that´s just part of the fun! We stayed for a few days on the Argentinian side of the falls in a town called Peurto Iguacu, in ... read more



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February 26th 2008

Sandwiched on one side by white sandy beaches, and on the other by mountains, Rio is one of the most breathtakingly beautiful cities imaginable. The Botafogo, Copacabana and Ipanema beaches are the centres for entertainment and relaxation during the day, and by night Ipanema and Lapa become the centres of action with Samba dancing galore. Add to this the fanatical local support of Rio's football teams - Botafogo, Vasco De Gama, Flamengo and Fluminese - and you've got a recipe for a city I feel very much at home in. Unquestionably the best view of town is up at the Christ the Redeemer statue. From here you get panoramic views of the entire city. To the big man's left hand side is the Marcana stadium - the venue for all the local football derbys. Next over ... read more



Carnival

Published: February 15th 2008South America » Brazil
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February 12th 2008

As the world's largest street party, Carnival was never likely to disappoint anyone willing to make the trip to Brazil. Rio hosts the biggest, but Salvador is where alot of the young folk in Brazil head for, and where I landed on the Thursday before the biggest week in the town's calendar. I had read lots about Carnival, and watched some videos online in an effort to get an idea for what I was about to witness, but despite all that I wasn't prepared for the madness. From the moment I set foot in the Pelourinho, the town's historical centre, it was clear that Brazilians take partying very seriously indeed. There is a very strong african influence in Salvador's Carnival, taking its beginnings from the slave trade in the post-Columban times. This african influence is clear ... read more






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