We left the smelly, dirty and dog-ridden town of Puerto Montt (Chile) and embarked on our 'big trip', a leg of our travels that we hoped, if we made it, would take us through some of the continents most impressive scenery; rainforests, fjords, dramatic peaks, crystal lakes, gigantic glaciers and yet more volcanos, all the way to the southern most tip of South America, Ushuaia - the last frontier! Over the last few months we've been on many journeys across many countries, and up until this point its all been done with very little/no planning or reserving ahead, but here in Patagonia (the region that encompasses the far south of both Chile and Argentina) things are very different - roads are few and far between, public transport is sketchy to say the least and many parts
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