Never let it be said that I don’t admit when I am wrong. After an uncomfortable 15-hour overnight bus trip, we were by met a swarm of motorcycle taxi-drivers, eager to help relieve us of several thousand dong and take us wherever they wanted. Suspicious of being fleeced, our first instincts were to tell them politely to go forth and multiply. One particularly persistent double act, later to be known as “Ant and Dec”, thrust brochures of a particularly luxurious, modern and cheap hotel under our noses and insisted that even if we didn’t take a room they would still transport us there gratis. Still suspicious, we reluctantly agreed and soon found ourselves being clad with fetching helmets and our considerable luggage being strapped to their little 125cc iron horses. After being warmly greeted by a
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