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Published: August 31st 2011
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Our first impressions of Cambodia were less than favourable. Our guidebooks had suggested that we would encounter a lot of fraudsters and charlatans masquerading as tour guides and visa intermediaries on the Thai-Cambodia border. To avoid getting involved in these shenanigans we booked an all-inclusive package with transport, visa, guides and accommodation. We actually saw very little in the way of conmen but our motley crew of “helpers” seemed the dodgiest of the lot! It seems that cross-border transportation of backpackers is a large and lucrative industry which has a turnover the size of a small country’s GNP! The whole unnecessarily convoluted process took well over two hours, included several changes of transport, an exit point, and several entry checkpoints over approximately half a mile. Our guide gave us little or no information and was of no use. He got angry when we pressed him for more advice, saying “I am in charge here”. We would have laughed if we weren’t so annoyed with him. The irony of his statement seemed lost on him. The hassle and bureaucracy made us feel like we were back in India! A taxi was arranged for us, a little dreadlocked German and a random Cambodian
and in a matter of a couple of hours we were in Siem Reap. This small, welcoming town has sprung up recently next to the vast complex of ancient temples to cope with the influx of tourists. It has retained many authentic features of the Khmer people including Live Premiership football and knock-off Lacoste polo shirts .We particularly liked Pub Street- no marks out of ten for imagination but ten out of ten for relaxation! Actually, it really was nice and the food was similar but less spicy than in Thailand. We had 3 courses of food and 6 beers for under a tenner. It’s a bit weird buying everything in US dollars. It almost feels like they have nicked all the cash from America without asking them. Can you imagine travelling halfway around the world to find a little island randomly using sterling???
The trip around the temples and Angkor Wat (the big one) was fascinating but hot and sweaty. The complex is over a 400km2 area so our trusted tuk-tuk man got us from one to the next. Some of them took some climbing but generally were well worth visiting. A lot of woodland was to seen in
between each, which diluted the focus on temples. In stark contrast to the Taj Mahal, there were never any queues or scrums and everyone was polite and serene. The Indians could learn a thing or two from the Cambodians! After an early start we were “all templed out” by mid afternoon so we headed for the Cambodian War museum. This was basically a field populated by many rusting vehicles from the fighting against the Khmer rouge in the early 70s. All a bit grim- including human bones in tanks from those who perished when they struck landmines- but very interesting. Our guide proved to be a medical marvel, displaying several bullet wounds, shrapnel below his skin, missing leg and blind in one eye- all from the war. We could have spent the afternoon studying him. I was keen to ask about attitudes towards Pol Pot and the Khymer Rouge but he kept focussing on how he couldn’t work and had no money or support from the government. Even after his healthy tip he could give us no guidance as to how we could find out more or even help.
After several beers, a foot rub and witnessing Man Utd dismantle
Arsenal Karen had to buy an emergency dress-for-over-a-bikini-thing. Another tough day over!
We hired quad bikes the following day and were taken on a tour of the countryside. This was fantastic as we felt we saw the real Cambodia. Lots of little naked/half-naked kiddies running out from farms to wave and smile at the strange whities. We were armed with a big bag of sweets and a box of crisps to distribute. Rarely have I seen so much happiness gained from so little. I think Karen was happier than the kids! She got stuck in a rice padi bog which required me and several eager locals to pull her out. Sweeties and a big smiles seemed to be adequate payment for their kind help. We stopped to visit a school for orphans and have been debating whether to cancel part of our trip so that we can spend a week or two volunteering. The debate continues and needs to be researched further.
The border crossing in reverse was much smoother, largely because we knew what we were doing. The drive back to Bangkok took forever as we stopped numerous times to refuel, eat and drop off other travellers. Apparently there’s
not much else to see or do in Cambodia but I would recommend a short visit as the people are so warm and friendly.
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