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Dejavu - Don Sebastian

Don Sebastian When the bus came to its final halt in Koomankavu, the place did not seem unfamiliar to Ravi. He had never been there before, but he had seen himself coming to this forlorn outpost beneath the immense canopy of trees, with its dozen shops and shacks raised on piles; he had seen it all in recurrent premonitions - the benign age of the trees, their riven bark and roots arched above the earth. (O.V.Vijayan, The Legends of Khasak)

Somewhere around Chidambaram, I was startled awake as the bus took a sharp turn. It was a hamlet trapped in time; mud huts, hay piles, dung cakes, old trees, everything the colour of summer dust. I remembered Koomankavu and went back to sleep, hoping that the bus would never arrive and the journey would never end. The ennui of a tired traveller's journey back home is as inspiring as the anxiety on the eve of the departure.

Agreed, all journey's must come to an end. But dragonflies wait on the shores for a hot current that would lift them up and drop on some distant continent. Storks flap their tireless wings across snow-capped mountains to follow an itinerary coded in their genes. Children go on dreaming of the sail past the map-blue seven seas even after they grow up and forget about it. There are so many people waiting with so many stories.

I'm on a treasure hunt. The destination is the journey itself and the reward MEMORIES OF WANDERLUST.

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By Dejavu
May 11th 2009
In search of a shade Asia » India » Tamil Nadu » Madurai
Apartheid wall
Apartheid wall
villagers in front of the wall that separates them from the upper-caste neighbourhood. Right of way was forced open in October 2008
Sun is punishing the parched countryside along Madurai-Theni highway. Large tracts of land are left fallow. “Vanam Patha Bhumi,” says Raja, the taxi driver. This land gazes at the sky, like a hornbill yearning for rain. Farmers rely on rain to irrigate their fields despite the Vaigai dam near Andipatti. We turn left from the highway at Usilampetti. Raja’s grandfather Mukaiah Thevar left Usilampetti and settled on the suburbs of Madurai many years ago. The family comes back once a year, for the temple festival. He is not quite sure of the place though. “This area was [View Full Entry]

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1288 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: May 19th 2009 | 103 Views | [diary=400260]

Cornered
The uplifter and the fallen
Women power

Your vote, our celebration
Your vote, our celebration
Drummers, crackers and a lot of excited people. No festival is as great as elections here.
The din of the Sunday market is drowned by loud recorded songs. The Tamil songs resemble old numbers from MGR, the movie messiah-turned-chief minister who continues to be a defining force posthumously. The tune and tone are the same, but these songs are in praise of current chief minister M Karunanidhi, who wrote the famous lines for MGR and many other matinee idols and scripted his own success saga along the political fault lines of Tamil Nadu. He is called Kalainjar, the artist. Firecrackers burst at the other end of the street. Small boys scurry along with the red-black flags of [View Full Entry]

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2036 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: May 19th 2009 | 124 Views | [diary=400256]

Ushering in a government
Legacy of loyalty
Enter the son

Waterworld
Waterworld
A clown fish swims near its anemone home
‘Saddam Beach’— the signboard with the executed Iraqi dictator’s picture greets visitors to Kavarathi, the headquarters of the Union Territory of Lakshadweep. Similar nomenclature on the other side of the Arabian Sea - in Kozhikode in Kerala - had hogged news space. The island doesn’t come under media radars but for its tourism potential. Despite familiar signposts, Lakshadweep has little in common with Kerala as far as politics is concerned. Elections to the lone parliamentary seat and ten panchayats are keenly contested by the Congress and the Nationalist Co [View Full Entry]

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1613 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: January 6th 2009 | 259 Views | [diary=360689]

Blurred beauty
Symbiosis
Captured and captivating

Beckoning lagoon
Beckoning lagoon
Minicoy boasts of a large lagoon and a unique lifestyle
Shades of blue span through the horizon. An electric blue lagoon, a cobalt sea and an azure sky. From atop Minicoy lighthouse, MV Kavarathi anchored off the vast lagoon looks like a paper ship. Tourists try to retrace the long boat ride from the ship to the jetty as the bored watchman regulates traffic on the narrow ladder leading up the tower. Metal halide lamps have replaced oil lamps, now showcased in the top chamber. But a thermometer and a clock, built in London at the time of the beacon’s commissioning in 1885, still work. The 41.7-metre-high lighthouse, the archipelago’s [View Full Entry]

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1400 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: January 5th 2009 | 403 Views | [diary=360349]

Blue rainbow
Tuna ahoy
The sailing line

Disembarkation without a jetty
Disembarkation without a jetty
Boats transport passengers from MV Kavaratti anchored off Kalpeni Island.
The ship is still swaying. A green line of land is visible through the cabin window. Clockwork flashes from the light house illuminate the pre-dawn grey sea. A public address system tells the passengers to be ready to disembark at Kalpeni. There are no ladders leading to the jetty, there is no jetty to land, and there is no land. MV Kavarathi is anchored a mile or so off the coast, from where mechanized boats dart towards the ship. For freshers, the adventure is about to begin. For islanders it’s homecoming. The 2.79-square kilometre atoll is surrounded by a 25.60-square kilometre [View Full Entry]

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1573 Words | 1 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: January 5th 2009 | 285 Views | [diary=360295]

Mid-sea manouvre
Tip beach
Blue lagoon

Sentience
Sentience
An exiled Tibetan woman prays at the Kalachakra Temple at McLeod Gunj.
The Himachal Road Transport Corporation bus from McLeod Ganj has shed the bulk of its load before it reached the inter-state bus terminus in New Delhi. Most of our fellow-travellers had got down at the Tibetan Colony on the northern suburbs of the metropolis. Soon they will dissolve in the urban kettle. But the story of these refugees is the story of the Himachal town called McLeod Ganj, nicknamed ‘Little Llasa’ after the Tibetan capital they left behind five decades ago. McLeod Ganj or Upper Dharamasala is in marked contrast with Lower Dharamasala, a typical north Indian town 9 [View Full Entry]

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1117 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 4 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 2nd 2008 | 152 Views | [diary=350627]

The stolen child-leader of Tibet
Good life
Om Mani Padme Hum

Horsemen in the Himalayas
Horsemen in the Himalayas
Every morning, Nepali horsemen lead their mules up the snowland to take the tourists for a ride.
The snow on the distant mountains has melted. It was a picture post-card at noon when we checked into the hotel by the narrow Beas River in New Manali. Now the mountains look as if sprinkled with bleaching powder. Tomorrow we would discover that snow is neither like bleaching powder nor like cotton pieces hung around the crib on Christmas Eve. Only two categories of tourists seem to ascend to Kullu-Manali: honeymooners in search of the snowy heights and hippieish foreigners high on hashish. At daybreak, at a roadside eatery a few kilometers short of Kullu valley, the driver of our [View Full Entry]

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1244 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 5 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: December 2nd 2008 | 176 Views | [diary=350625]

Roadmakers' obituary
Snow white
Vanilla-brownie

By Dejavu
June 22nd 2008
The temple of lust Asia » India » Assam » Guwahati
Chorus of reverence
Chorus of reverence
Village woman enamoured by the floating sadhus at the Kamakhya Temple in Guwahati.
“The door of the historic Kamakhya temple will remain closed on Sunday morning for the Anbubachi Mela....” Excellent timing, again. But the rest of the Times of India report is encouraging: “The door will reopen on June 25. Over six lakh devotees from across the country and abroad are likely to converge during the four-day congregation atop Nilachal Hills.” So we proceed to the temple of lust, where a stone yoni is worshipped, hardly eight kilometres from Guwahati on the airport route. For half the journey, the Brahmaputra flows parallel to the highway, till the hil [View Full Entry]

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1262 Words | 3 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 12th 2008 | 485 Views | [diary=298700]

Floating sadhus
Holy smoke
Secluded divinity

Tantric chants
Tantric chants
Morning prayer inside the Tawang monastery.
It was drizzling at Tawang lamasery as in Bomdila. The 400-year-old gompa, surpassed in antiquity only by the temple of Llasa, the heartland of Tibetan Buddhism, is still in slumber. The monks are yet to gather for prayers. The sonorous tune from the gyaling pervades the lamasery. Two young monks shrouded in morning mist blow the short trumpets from a small temple atop an unfinished building in the compound. Neighbourhood Monpa women help monks with their daily chores. The monastic musicians enter the gompa past ferocious chimandas who guard the pantheon of Vajrayana deities. They stow away [View Full Entry]

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1914 Words | 4 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 9th 2008 | 353 Views | [diary=297496]

Little Buddha
Pema Drema
Symbiosis

The road to Bomdila
The road to Bomdila
Buses that evade and roads that vanish. A fall from this height leaves no trace other than a tombstone on the spot of the accident.
Dileep Muktan pulled over his car at Bhalukpong, where soldiers watched over every vehicle entering Arunachal Pradesh. After the driver entered his name and car number in the register, the army clerk inspected our inner-line permits. All clean. Two shops farther, a liquor shop awaits us. Arunachal Pradesh was the cheapest of all our destinations, when it came to foreign liquor. But what bowled us over was the ingenious brew called rakshi, lower in price but higher in spirit. After chasing a bus which left us at a roadside dhaba in Orang and fleeing from a group of rickshahwallahs in Tezpur [View Full Entry]

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1670 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: July 9th 2008 | 236 Views | [diary=297479]

Kumari
Kumari ki maa
Road builders



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