From Thailand to Cambodia

---

Day 2 - 3 : Bangkok to Siem Reap



Feb 3rd



We awoke to the sun streaming in though the curtains and it only took a few moments to realize where we were. We opened up the patio window to reveal lush jungle and high rises... there was nowhere else we could be, but Bangkok. After breakfast by the pool, we took to the streets. Away from the manicured beauty of the Nai Lert, the sudden rush of cars, motorbikes, smells and exposed electric wires hit our senses all at once. It was hectic, crazy and wonderful all at the same time and even the most horrendous smells brought me back to my childhood in this beautiful country. Erik seemed to take to it all right away, leading me across streets where motorbikes and cars continued to rush by despite the green walk sign flashing away.

Erik and I were headed to Hualamphong train station to buy train tickets for our trip to Siem Reap, Cambodia the following morning. The hotel concierge had advised us to buy the tickets today rather than the immediately prior to leaving (we later learned this was not necessary). It only took a short walk and two subways to get to the main train station. The system was very well organized and we were able to navigate it easily. It was also extremely interesting to be out amongst the locals and in the city post elections. The elections had been held on Sunday, February 2nd, the day we landed in Bangkok. There had been some fear of violence, but it turned out to be extremely minimal. There was some gunfire on the Saturday, but that was all we heard of. Protesters in Bangkok and the further South did prevent millions of registered voters from being able to cast there vote. The conflict has been going on for over three months, with those who are in support of Prime Minister Yingluck Shinawatra and protesters, who feel her government is corrupt. However it seemed that the majority of Thai people we spoke to were upset that protesters had stopped others from being able to cast their votes. Many intersections continue to be blocked off, we saw huge televisions broadcasting a woman giving what appeared to be a very passionate (angry/hopeful... Not sure) speech. There were hundreds of t-shirts being sold with messages such as "Shutdown Bangkok, Restart Bangkok), but other than that, we as tourists were unaffected. It will be interesting to see what will come of all this for Thailand over the next few months.

Erik and I arrived at Hualamphong station and were greeted by a lovely lady who spoke english very well. We are not completely sure how it happened, but she managed to convince us that the train to Cambodia was not the way to go and she had a far better plan. So we followed her down a few roads and ended up at a small tourist office. Within moments we were now taking a minivan the following morning, with various vehicle switches from Bangkok to Siem Reap. Let the adventures begin!



Feb 4th:



We were up, packed and in taxi on route to our minivan by 6am. We had to leave extra early due to continued road blocks throughout Bangkok. We arrived at the pickup spot before the sun had risen. After grabbing some breakfast from a tiny store on the side of the road, we sat and awaited our ride. An hour later and still no sign of our minivan and we were still the only people waiting for it. When my concern was really started to mount, a gentleman came across the street and ushered us around the corner... and there it was... a completely FULL minivan with at least 6 other people obviously without a seat too. It turned out that they had overbooked the ride. As it happens though, things always find a way to work out. A second van was called and although two hours late, we took off and headed out of Bangkok towards the Cambodian boarder.

This was Erik and my first introduction to the reality of how terrifying driving in South East Asia can truly be. I was dreamily gazing out the window at all the sights we were passing, blissfully unaware that our lives were currently being held on a very unsteady balance beam. Erik gave me a nudge and said "look at what is going on"! I was forced to look forward and realized that in our drivers constant pursuit to pass every car on the road' resulting in us predominantly driving into oncoming traffic and swerving back into the correct lane milliseconds prior to head on collision. His driving was literally forcing other cars off the road at times, while passing cars that were in the process of passing other cars. So as Erik puts it "we were three cars wide on a two lane highway with two cars passing in the opposite direction on blind corners". I also forgot to mention that the majority of cars do not have working seat belts and our minivan was no exception. So we all clutched the our seats, gave each other concerned glances and preceded to discuss how unequivocally horrified/terrified we were. After a few hours of this we finally pulled over for a bathroom/food break. Our minivan carried a French Canadian, a couple from New York, a couple from Holland, and a German. Our driver (lovely when not behind the wheel) came and offered us all some deep fried grasshoppers. I cowardly passed, but Erik crunched away on one. He described it as "a barbecue flavoured treat", however 10 minutes later the psychological component started to give him a bit of a queasy feeling and he was spending a fair amount of time attempting to pull legs out from between his teeth. Perhaps a one time thing?

We were soon back on the road and praying for our lives as we sped towards Cambodia. I had read a great deal about the various visa scams that happen as one crosses from Thailand into Cambodia. I had read that the cost for a Cambodian Visa was $20 US dollars, but many drivers will try take you to buy your visa before you have come to the Thai border and end up charging you double. Well all of a sudden we pulled into a little noodle restaurant filled with at least 30 other tourists filling out forms. We were led to a table , given a menu and asked for our passports. I asked the gentleman what was going on... He replied "Cambodian Visa". I said "no, we go to the boarder first and get the visa there". He replied that we had to do it here and it was cost $40 dollars. I began to decline again and stated that this was a scam, he gave us a cheeky smile and said we could walk ourselves to the border, but we realized that we would probably lose our group and our connection bus if we chose that option. Not worth it in the end. The French Canadian on our bus and a few other ladies at another table were yelling at this point and very angry. This was the perfect tourist trap with no real way out. We saw two woman take off on foot with their backpacks, but we did not follow. We handed over our passports along with $40 each (they also charged us an extra $1 each for a photo which they never took). We finished filling out are visa forms and waited around 20 minutes with no passport. I began to worry, I hate letting my passport out of site and was not used to handing it to someone and watching it disappear (this has turned out to be quite the norm). Erik finally went searching for our passports to be met with the reply "good, good... No worry". We finally saw a man coming our way with a stack of about 20 passports. He asked us for our nationality and then handed us each a Canadian passport. I opened mine to reveal a girl with brunette hair (not me) and Erik opened his new passport to reveal a blond girl (more likely to be me, but it was not). We called the guy back to tell him that these were not our passports and who had ours! We finally got the right ones back and headed back on the minivan, a little less money than expected.

We then arrived at the Thai border and proceeded to walk through immigration. Erik was sent to one desk and I was sent to another. He was through in a moment and forced to continue out of the building. I had another experience altogether. The Thai official took my passport and I watched him rip my departure card out of it and place in the pile of departure cards. He continued to look through my passport and then started talking to me in Thai. I could not understand what he was saying . I have forgotten any Thai I knew as a child and he spoke no English. He began getting angrier and started pointing at the departure card pile and at me. I pointed at my departure card lying face up, telling him it was right there. He continued to yell. It was the first time that I have ever felt truly scared. I reached forward and picked up my departure card to show him. He grabbed it out of my hand and placed it face down in the pile. He was now speaking very quickly and I had no idea what to do. He eventually handed me a new departure card which I filled out as everyone around us stared. I handed it to him and he continued to look at it and my passport for another 5 minutes. I was terrified, with no clue why this was happening. All of a sudden he looked up, smiled and waved me through. I was in shock, but so thankful to be out of Thailand (something I never thought I would say)! I still have no idea what happened. Perhaps he was embarrassed that he had taken my departure card out and then asked for it... and was angry when I pointed out his mistake? I guess I will never know. I met Erik and our group on the other side. People were asking what had happened and I had no answer.

The sun was burning down and we still had to go through Cambodian immigration. We entered the huge line up and started the long process through a warm, enclosed 'tunnel'. An hour later we were out; fingerprinted and our passports stamped. It was 12 hours door to door, three minivans and a tuk tuk, but we finally arrived at our beautiful hotel in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Erik and I were greeted by the loveliest and friendliest staff I have ever come across at the stunning Royal Empire Hotel. We were given welcome drinks and cool cloths, before being led up to our beautiful room overlooking the pool and Siem Reap. After a delicious dinner we hoped into bed, exhausted after the days trial and tribulations. I have to say, Erik is an amazing travel partner and every little bump is just adding to the experience. Absolutely incredible so far... and off to see Angkor Wat for sunrise in the morning!

---

Comments

[Home and Away]

You were scammed and will be scammed every step of the way...
unless you are aware of the scams and choose to avoid them. The best way to find out about scams is to read the TB blogs of those who have traveled the route you are taking in advance. A lot of helpful advice can be found here on the best way to go. And with discount airlines, flying may be cheaper, or not much more expensive, than the highly scam prone and uncomfortably long land routes. Where were you born and where and when did you live in Thailand? You can read all about my time in Thailand and the rest of the world on my blogs.