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Published: January 25th 2008
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Nepal
The road from the border to Kathmandu, a mere 250 km, took two days. The first 150 km has many very bad to worse patches, the second 100 km is very good except for the last 10 to 15 km which has even worse patches than the first 150 km. I took pictures of overturned busses and wrecked vehicles and the idea of traveling by public transport has become less attractive. But, having been convinced that traveling in ones own car in China is either impossible or very expensive or both, the choice is simple: to go or not to go.
Kathmandu.
Let’s start to say that the name of the city is a lot more romantic than the city itself. Much the same as an Indian city, stretching kilometers away from a central point in all directions, there are differences, nonetheless. First of all Kathmandu houses about 20 % of the number if inhabitants as a similar town in India. Than there are few cows, healthier dogs, far less rickshaws but many more motor cycles, the women are attractive mainly, some cute and a few real beautiful. The streets are dusty for sure, but there are shopping malls
with clean, modern shops and restaurants, clean public toilets with mothballs in the urinoires. (OH, how easy it is to be thankful for small things).
I hadn’t seen rain for a long time, but eventually it did rain, last night. It transformed the thick layer of dust that hides a lot of the town’ glitter into a muddy paste that makes breathing a lot healthier, if you disregard the fumes from all the cars and, especially, the motor bikes. After a while the sun turns the mud into dust again (from dust to dust as it were, with something in between) and breathing becomes less healthy - but unavoidable.
All in all one feels more at ease, with more space to move and surrounded by less refuse than in big Indian cities. I must admit I have very fond memories of Kotkatura for instance where I was made welcome and met very pleasant people. That was not a big city though. They say that more to the South India becomes more agreeable again. Let’s hope so.
Not having given much attention to the (expensive) Nepal book, specially bought in South Africa to help me find my way here, I negotiated
myself into the parking lot of a hotel. I was lucky, because it’s not far from the old city where most of the real romantic scenery can be found. Also, it’s quiet here after the staff and their friends have inspected my camper.
Thamel is the place where a lot of temples are. And the tourists. There aren’t many palefaces here. Apparently in the past there were lots of Americans, Germans who sold their car here and many others. But those days have gone. And the visitors you see now are a strange lot. They avoid eye-contact, are aloof, shy and on the defensive when approached (by me, maybe that’s the reason), dismiss attempts by locals to be drawn into a sign of interest in whatever they have to sell and generally behave as if they are just there to scan the scenery and peal a layer off the surroundings. Looking in from outside.They sometimes make an attempt to identify with the locals by buying “authentic” Nepalese garments no Nepalese would wear, as the most popular garment is a very Western jacket and scarf. They eat with it and sit in shops, with never less than three layers of clothing
while it is anything but cold.
About eating: Just a few hundred meter up the road is a shopping centre with the imposing name of “United World Trade Centre”, a name I found by accident in a magazine. Even on the tourist map the place is not mentioned. But it should be, if only for the two supermarkets, the Garlic bar and coffee shop and the fountain in the atrium that WORKS.
In the Garlic bar they serve an excellent pizza and a delicious chop-sue, even if is it completely different from the dish I always thought was the genuine Chinese thing.
Back to temples. Part of the city’s charm, and romantic nature, are the pagodas, temples, memorials and holy places that are strewn around and can be found certainly not only in Thamel. They are mostly tranquil, very characteristic, faded, not very well maintained buildings devoid from any glitter or importance. Even if they stand out because of their style and design, they blend in with surrounding buildings, residential or commercial. They represent the spiritual side of every day life. I found that very inspiring.
As far as going from here to China is concerned, I must reconsider the
options. The only way to get from here to China is by plane to Chengdu over-flying Tibet at a considerable cost. A tour operator will take a group to Lhasa in Tibet, but most of the information I have is sketchy and dubious.
The other option would be to go back to Pakistan and take the Karikurum Highway to China, leave the car in Sost and proceed by bus. It is going to be long tour because distances are huge. But since we started this venture with the main goal of getting to and being in China, it seems to be the best way.
That is it for now. Next time more about Kathmandu and Nepal.
Cheerio.
Ho-ho, not so fast!
Latest development in the Nepal/Kathmandu sage is this: the manager of the hotel, Mr Sharma is going to accompany me, in the Land Rover, on a fortnight trip to various places in Nepal.
I can’t wait to report on that experience!
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