Pai-o-my

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Good morning boys and girls. Who has been to Thailand? Ok good, most of you. Now who has been to Chiang Mai? Ok, still a good number. Im sure most of you walked past those travel agents with mini-buses to various locations such as the Gibbon Experience, Laos, etc. But who has been to Pai? While staying at my favourite guest house, The Chiang Mai Inn, sitting at the communal table as you do, the subject of Pai came up one day and it met with almost universal approval. As it turned out, about 8 out of the 10 random drinkers were going to Pai, and having decided I wanted to go there a day before hand, it was the obvious choice. Out on the Sangsom buckets the night before departure, at the trusty Roots Reggae bar with my new buddies, the night reached 3am and deciding that I should get some sleep (as my bus was in 5 hours). I gently broke the news to everyone that I was going to bed (much to the dismay of the lovely french girls) and made plans to meet everyone the next day.

When you think of Thailand, thoughts of fairly good roads come to mind. On the road to Pai, this was far from the case. Dragging my hungover self to the bus in the morning, with considerable difficulty, I hoped on the mini bus and was looking forward to the peace of a little extra sleep. Far beknown to me, it was probably the most windy and curvy road since the road to El Nido. Initially flirting the with gorgeous South African girl next to me, it quickly became apparent that I was going to spew and it was only a matter of time. Inpolitely ignoring the Kiwi in the front seat, I proceeded to flatly ignore everyone around me and concentrate on breathing and how much I was sweating. 2 hours later, and abstaining from throwing up, we had a pit stop and I apologised for being so anti-social. After 4 hours of horrible roads we arrived in Pai.

Pai is a small backpacker town not too far from the Myanmar borner in North-West Thailand, known for its laid back attitude and peaceful surroundings. Within 45 seconds of touching down, I ran into the lovely Laura and Nat, whom I met in Chiang Mai. Gathering as much info as I could, and laughing at their inability to ride a motor bike, I set of in search of my prefered guest house, which was about 2 kms out of town. While the walk was picturesque and peaceful, I arrived at the Sunrise Huts to discover a note saying the receptionist had gone to town and would be back in the afternoon!!! Pai really doesnt seem to care about profits, as the lazy bastard didnt return for 2 hours. The place was lovely but what type of business closes down in the middle of the day like that! Anyway, I stayed there for a night or 2, paying way too much, before moving to the equally lovely, in the heart of town, Mr Jan's where it cost 100 baht for a bungalow per night (compared to 480 at sunrise huts). Fully recommend Mr Jans for anyone that is going to visit. Cant go wrong at this place. Price is low but everything else is high quality.

Pai is tiny. There is about 4 streets in Pai. There are practically no cars, lots of motorbikes (mainly farang paying 100 baht a day to rent them). There is probably about 10 good bars eg Edible Jazz, Yellow Sun, Bebop, No cry and a few lesser bars. There is only about 10 restaurants (The curry shacks massoman curry and good lifes tuna salad being my favourites). Everything is super cheap. As the locals are so lazy, paying is essentially optional and even the worlds worst theif can get away without paying for their dinner. Honesty is assumed but laziness is a virtue and i forgot to pay a couple of times. That said, everybody is super friendly (except the Thai women who seem to be super rude for reasons I cant explain). On my first day, I ran into about 5 people from Chiang Mai, and as the days progressed, all the people whom I arranged to meet arrived (evidently I can hold my alchol better than most). Its truly funny running into people you met in different cities or countries. Me and James (who I met in Chiang Mai but saw on my first day while he was negotiating a price for a guest house) went to a waterfall out side of town, and after some initial hesitation, ran into an Irish guy I drank with for about 3 days in El Nido, Philippines. He was travelling with a few people, including a Canadian Girl who I later ran into in Vang Vieng, Laos. The backpacking scene is pretty small in Asia, all things considered.

Spending a few days with the aforementioned Kiwi and his American squeeze (who didnt get along very well, espically when American girl would seemingly use me to make him jealous) and James we quickly got to know the place. On the 2nd night, Kiwi guy fell asleep at Reggae bar (in a 10 degree celcious temperature) and American squeeze walked of home with only photos of her walk to remind her how she got home. We tried to wake him up, but it wasnt to be. Many Sangsom buckets later, I have vague recollections of riding my motorbike home. Spent a day with the lovely Nat and Laura exploring the outlying areas of Pai by Motorbike and admiring the sunset from the hammocks at Sunrise Huts. Before long, Hannah, Tom and Arthur, as well as Tom and Gerry arrived, as well as Craig, the infinately intersting Dani, Sam and Nicole joining the party. 3 days into Pai we had our own little rent a party going. Each day was filled with trips out to the canyon, waterfalls, coffee shops, tubing down the river, making Dani's mind up for her and just chilling out. I have never, ever, been to a place that was quite as chilled. You could do nothing all day or you could be as active as you like.

I arranged with Athur and Leo to hike out to the Mae Yen waterfall, which is a 7 km hike through the river (14 kms all up). Unfortunately, the lazy bastards couldnt get up by 11am so I went by myself. Being as the hike was so scenic, beautiful, energetic etc. I recommeneded doing it agin 2 days later with Tom, Hannah and Craig. Unfortunatley, my feet were in a state beyond repair and shoes were out of the question, so in all my wisdom I decided to hike the 14kms barefoot. What started off as a good idea quickly became bad and by the time we reached the half way point my feet were pretty tender and I kept falling behind. Craig bear-grills-ed his way to the top of the water fall (barefoot) and Tom lit up a spliff. Not wanting to partake in either, I inteligently decided I would get a headstart and set off about 10 minutes before the rest of the company. About 20 minutes in, I noticed that I may have taken an incorrect path, which trecked up the mountain, rather than following the river. Judging that the path would lead back to the river, I followed the path for about 2 kms before the path mysteriously disapearred. Now this was the point where I should have turned back however there was only about an hour until sunset and I had no intention of losing 45 minutes and walking back the remaining 6 kms in the dark. Embarking on my own Bear Grills adventure, I decided to hike down the mountain rather than turning back in the hope of avoiding walking back in the dark. Unfortunately, the mountain was practically uncharted and everystep was a brush with death. After uncontrolably sliding on my ass briefly, I came to a chasm, with a 10 meter sheer drop. The occasional foothold provided temporary relief, however it was no sure thing. I estimated that I was about 100 meters above the river and there was 3 sheer drops to come. Those that know me know I love a good sauna, however I must have lost 5 kilos scaling down the mountain side. There were times when I had a hold to place one foot, but nothing to hold onto and the nearest hand hold about 150 centermeters away. I truly think that I have never been in such peril in my life. I look back on it now with pride and a sense of achievement, but lets just say that im never going hiking by myself again. I kissed the ground when I reached the river, but the fun was only just beginning. I lost about 60 minutes climbing down the mountain, and it was dark about 60 minutes later. I thank the powers that be that Tom left a head torch about 3 kms from where I reached the river. I was walking in the dark for about 30 minutes and walking with the headtorch for about another 90 minutes. Apparently Tom and Craig were about to come back looking for me the minute I responded to their Cooooooooeee, however the beers in their hands made me question their plans. My body was quickly shutting down by the time I made it back to the entrance, so after a quick bike ride it was off to bed for the night!

If national park adventures dont convince you to visit Pai, the night life definately should. There is about 5 bars in town that play live music, none of which are better than Bebop bar. Opening around 10pm each night, the local bars play a variety of rock'n'roll, mixed with their own mannerisms. Listening to Nirvana, Metalica and Rage Aganist the Machine has never sounded quite so good! Closing at the relatively early time of 2am, No Cry bar fills the gap with 250 baht buckets and bon fires until 5am, complete with ample opportunity to mingle with the various night owls up after hours.

I spent 10 fun filled days in Pai, the most I have spent in a single place while backpacking, and truly wouldnt have left unless my brother Cameron wasnt arriving in Chiang Mai the next day. Those who have visited Pai can relate. Those yet to visit, I whole heartedly recommend making the effort through the windy roads. You will be rewarded many times over

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