Another slice of Pai, please.

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Nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains 135 km from Chiang Mai, Pai (pronounced "by") is the hippy mecca of the whole of South-East Asia. We have been staying in a round bamboo hut on stilts on the banks of the Pai River, with a hammock on the balcony and nothing but a mattress on the floor inside. The pace of life is slow and relaxed, with everyone incapable of much more than mooching. It is easy to see why people end up staying weeks, and even months, here. We had only intended to stop here to break the bone rattling 9 hour bus ride from CM to Mae Hong Son but have already stayed 3 nights and feel like we could stay a few more days.

The town itself can be walked in a matter of minutes. The real treats are found along the quiet, winding roads that ramble in all directions through the surrounding farm land and off into mountains beyond passing sleepy hill-tribe villages where women in brightly coloured traditional dress congregate on wooden porches (trying to sell you Opium as you pass) as the men work in the fields and rice paddies. The scenery is eye-popping.

A day on a rented scooter was a requirement and allowed us to get to the main attractions. Yet another hot spring but this one was alot more natural in appearance with a group of small pools where the water is bubbling away at 80 degrees and then flows down through the woods in a hot river. We have come to accept that there is rarley hot water in the places we stay and as a result Lara's legs were begining to resemble the abominable snow man's. Imagine her glee to finally be able to take a hot bath where the river had been dammed and wash her hair under a small water fall. She didn't even mind the dead leaves and other detritus that was floating by. Although shaving your legs is probably not PC in a hot spring, she did (thankgod!!). We found some other stunning waterfalls and had a picnic next to one where people come and sunbathe all day on the rocks that form levels all the way up. It would appear that this waterfall is a good retreat for those who wish to indulge in a little opium smoking. Local villagers line the road leading there making smoking gestures to the passing Farang. Illegal, of course, but quite popular with the high numbers of hippy-trippers and one of the draws of the area we think. Although a lot of people we know indulge in the odd "joint" or two, travelling and drugs pretty much seem to go hand in hand. Perhaps a lot more accepted here than at home is the fact that when you say no that is the end of it. However saying no is not something that many people do - despite the hefty penalties in Asia - mainly death. Oddly enough, the people who don't smoke here seem to be the more serious pot heads at home. Maybe they appreciate the penalties. It is the farang who do it a little bit at home who seem to go wild for drugs abroad. It will all end in tears for some...or at least a big fine from corrupt coppers...or maybe even a stay in the Bangkok Hilton. Every guest house owner can tell you a story or two about stupid westerners caught and shipped off. Our advice....just don't bother!

On our first day we got a tipoff for a good restraunt and we rocked up there for dinner - 'Na's Kitchen'. We got sooo excited when we sampled the amazing Thai dishes on offer at Na's. We ate the most deluxe meals we have had in Thailand and they averaged at 25 baht (about 30 pence) and they made the best ginger tea's for 15 baht. This is the cheapest food we have bought in Thailand and the best, tells you something I reckon. We were in heaven and we ate there for the next 2 nights and I swear the food got even better (how is this possible?). However, new to Na was our appetite. With it being so cheap not to mention delicious, added to the need to take on extra fuel to keep us warm on those COLD nights we started a trend of ordering two meals each. Much to local amusement. Honest to God you would think we had just asked them to serve it to us naked whilst performing a ping pong show. From then on, every time we had to pay a bill we were greeted with a snide..."are you sure you dont want anymore". Luckily for them however was the fact that we were spreading the news like wildfire and judging from our fellow dinner companions double meals will be taking off here.

The mountain climate is just plain wierd. It is scorching hot during the day but the second the sun goes down the temperature plummits sending Lara running to the hut to change out of her bikini and into fleece lined ski trousers and three layers of polar-tek fleece jumpers. we even have to wear socks on our hands, so desparate are the conditions! Not only are the conditions desperate, so is Andrew's need for socks. Anyone who has been travelling will sympathise with this. You hand your washing in and rarely get it all back. After a despairing sock inventory conducted by Andrew trying to find extra pairs for glove wearing, we realised quite how low we were. It cannot be that difficuly surely, yet you hand in three pairs and get one and a half back. Even more annoyingly is that it is always the decent socks you lose. However, luckily (and perhaps expectadly considering the weather and the hippies) camp fires are big business here so we warmed our cockles by a blazing fire on the hill over looking the river where there was an open mic thing going on. It was a really great night. We met other travellers and exchanged advice on places we had been and were going to - this is a great way to pick up info on our future destinations from like-minded people and is far more up-to-date than any Lonley Planet.

We did make it to Mae Hong Son but only in the form of a day trip. There are loads of tour agents in the town offering all types of day trips and treks etc. but is seems that no one can tear themselves away from Pai to do these tours. Every one we enquired about had zero bookings, so we ended up with a personal guide for the day. This proved to be an eye opener. For one, we managed to clear up at least some of the weird looks we get from Thai people. Apparently, it is not common practice to change your name when you get married. So despite our passports clearly stating Mrs and Mr Harding, a good proportion of people had been thinking we were brother and sister - a most disturbing conclusion as one could imagine. Maybe incest is not illegal in Thailand? The mind boggles!

We rode in the back of a pick-up for 4 hours along the windy road to MHS (rather chilly at 8.30 in the morning) which gave us awesome views from the mountains down into the valleys where the morning mist looks like a cloud sea from above. We visited a village of Karen tribes people famous for their tradition of placing bronze rings around the girls' necks, stretching their necks to incredible lengths. There were two guys playing guitars in the village and as I walked past they gesticulated an invitation for me to join them. I have not picked up a guitar for 3 months so it felt great jamming with these guys who did not speak a word of English. Guitars here and fake and cheap, but I managed with my 3 strings and we soon had a bit of a concert going on. Thai people really are so friendly and hill tribe villagers especially. The rest of MHS is quite uninteresting so we were glad to have decided to stop in Pai rather than continue on there. We did manage a visit to Lud Cave, a massive cave system with impressive stalactites and stalagmites. Despite the 200m climb up lit only by an oil lamp (that would be an oil lamp fuelled with Johnsons baby oil?!) and rickety stairs it was pretty impressive.

Unfortunately, we are having to cut our stay in Pai short because we want to do a hill trek from Chiang Mai before heading back south. Everything always feels like such a rush, like we're trying to do everything in too short a time frame. It's a shame to not be able to spend longer here but we would also hate to miss out on a hill trek. Plus, I think Andrew had had quite enough groping for a few days. At last he knows what it feels like to be me! Andrew as those who know him well, is quite a hairy/fuzzy chap. In contrast, Thai men are pretty smooth. So imagine our surprise when we are sitting on the bus and Andrew feels his leg being touched..gently at first but closely followed by full on stroking for a not inconsiderable amount of time. The culprit was a young girl who obviously mistook him for an animal but she was very excited by her new find and I suspect that has we stayed in town longer word may have spread and led to the establishment of the world first Harding Petting Zoo. So we bid a fond farewell to Pai but will definately be back for another slice in the future.

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Comments

[Mummy]

Gap year for Mum and Dad
Not only meeting you in Australia, but don't think we will come home, think we will go in the reverse to you - sounds like a good idea - sell the house and have fun!!!

[Mikes]

Nike says......
Just do it!!!!!