Do Nothing In Pai

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Friday, October 12th - Wednesday, October 17th

“Do Nothing in Pai” is the slogan here and it’s quite easy to do just that. Pai is a small town of 3,000 situated in a cool, moist corner of a mountain fortressed valley along the rambling Pai River. Located in Northern Thailand its in close proximity to the Myanmar border. It is very bohemian and full of backpackers and hippies. The energy and vibe of Pai is contagious and one could easily stay here forever…it turns out that many do.

My traveling companions, Sarah and Dirk, and me decided to defy Pai’s slogan and do everything. We came here for trekking (i.e., hiking) and to explore the mountains. No temples, Wats or ruins here just an endless supply of adventure and all that they ask you to bring is your energy...they supply teh rest. My five days here have been the most wonderful and incredible experiences to date and Pai is at the top of my list for favorite places to go. Selecting photos that best capture the essence and people of Pai and the beauty of the mountains and valleys is very difficult - but here is what you get.

Day One: Sarah and I checked out the different trekking tours as we waited for Dirk to arrive in the afternoon. We rented biked and headed out of town towards the elephant camps and hot springs. Within minutes of crossing the bridge out of town we’re on a small country road winding through the rice paddies and soy bean fields. We are smacked in the face with one of the most scenic and beautiful landscapes I’ve ever laid eyes on…this is why I came to Thailand. It's harvest time and the villagers pepper the many fields cutting rice and picking the soy.

Day Two: we signed up for a 1-day rafting trip down the Khong and Pai Rivers that is mostly class 2-3 rapids with one great class 4. A couple young Brits, Luke and Rosie, join us and we are teamed with two guides - Tiger and Mu Nuon. We paddle through a National Forest and are surrounded by nature’s finest; we jump in and float down the river for what's one of the most tranquil moments of the entire trip; climb the Suza Waterfall, jumping from cliffs; and, getting herbal mud treatments from the natural hot springs.

Day Three & Four: We signed up for a 2-day trek into the mountains where well stay overnight with a host family from the Luah tribe. On this trip Iso and Alexa, who are from Switzerland, and our guide Pat join us. I won’t go into great detail because it’s a story that has to be told in person. The village people were incredibly hospitable, pleasant and amusing. The highlight was getting a massage by 12 village women (at the same time) in a room full of 25 women and kids. The trek was amazing and the beauty of Thailand was more prominent when you are in the jungle and mountains.

Day Five: our last full day was more relaxing and we each did our own thing and explored Pai more. I took a bare back ride on an elephant, Kuouno is his name, through the valley and into the Pai River. I had the chance to swim and bath with this gentle giant. Chalk it up as another amazing experience.

Dirk and Sarah are heading onto Laos together so we part ways. They’ve become great friends in a short period of time and we’ve shared some fabulous life experiences together. I hope our paths will cross again soon. I’m headed back to Chiang Mai and then fly to Shanghai China for five days.

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Photos

Rice Fields in the Pai Valley
On our first day Sarah and I rented bikes and headed out of town; within minutes we came across this rice paddy and were overcome by the view. This is Thailand!

Noi Elephant Camp
As we were biking we passed several elephant camps on the roadside where you can do bare back treks. We stop and talk to the owner and take a few pics of these gentle giants. I'll be back for a ride before I leave.

Up Close and Personal
These animals are incredibly beautiful and amazing.

An Eye For An Eye
Their eyes are kaki colored and saddening; they watch you like a hawk.

Hot Coals...Hot Coals
Although small they are very hot. Sarah and I take a break from our bike ride and relax by the hot springs.

Cinematic Moment
Biking home we came across the elephants walking through the valley towards their evening camps. The scene looks like it was taken right out of a movie.

Sunset Over the River Pai
The view speaks for itself.

Sarah and Me at Sunset
We stopped at the Pai Treehouse guest house to watch the sun set over the River Pai. For a few dollars a night you can stay in a private bungalow right on the river.

Catfish Tiger
Tiger is our guide. A 3.5 kg catfish is what he's holding. As we're rafting down the river a local fisherman (using a bamboo pole with a hook and a rock) called us over and asked Tiger to take his fish to market in Pai and sell it. He requested Tiger purchase rice, tobacco, chili and whiskey; Tiger will take the supplies to the man on his next trip down the river. Photo compliments of Dirk.

Rafting Luncheon
Lunch was in a small bamboo camp hosted by local villagers. Photo compliments of Dirk.

Baby Bamboo
In just 4 months bamboo can grow to be 6" in diameter and over 20' tall.

Trek Day 1 - Bamboo Forest
On the first day of our trek we stopped at a waterfall in a bamboo forest to have lunch. We didn't want to leave.

Table For Five With A View Please
Fortunately the view was slightly better than the lunch...which was excellent.

Abandoned But Not Forgotten
On our way hiking up the mountain we came across an abandoned village that one of the local tribes left 5-years earlier. Pushed out by the government the tribe moved deeper into the mountains. The village is periodically used b the tribe to graze their buffalo and cow.

Offering To The River God
The tribe's Medicine Man told the family of a sick villager to appease the River God by making an offering of rice and a chicken's head. Our guide informed us the person who was ill did get better.

River God's Valley View
This is where the offering to the River God took place (see previous photo). If it wasn't for the chicken blood and head and red ants I'd camp here in a heart beat.

Luah Village Sleeping Quarters
We stayed with a host family from the Luah tribe. This is our room and beds for the evening. The village does have a few modern day conveniences - under the blanket in the right corner of the photo is a TV, DVD and stereo. I think they hid it to downplay their social status.

Iso and Alexa
Two of our Swiss travelling companions for the trek. We couldn't have asked to be partnered with a better pair of strangers. Their optimism outshined their energy. Everyone has a story and they're all interesting.

Luah Tribe Children Ambush
What we soon found out was they all wanted to sell us their handmade goods. Beautifully colored bracelets, bags, hats, purses, vests, sarongs and scarves. It was hard not to buy something.

Buy From Me.... Buy From Me
How can you turn down this face? Anyone want to buy a bag from me - I'll sell it to you cheap-cheap.

Peekaboo
This kids red rubber boots were priceless. I saw him again 10 minutes later running buck naked through the village.

Comments

[Sarah Starr]

Great Photos, AJS!
Alan, I am really enjoying your photos and the details you write are excellent. Glad you're having such a fun adventure. Ne touchez pas mes pieds!

[Larry Siegel]

Who Knew?
Alan! What an adventure. I am truly enjoying every detail -- but who knew what a great photographer you are?! I love these photos. I look forward to the eventual table top book, "Alan Strakey Collection 1." Safe travels and we're looking forward to next post.

[Sarah Duncan]

amazing
Allan these photos are amazing! I just can't get over it...just beautiful! Makes me want to be back in Pai! Your blog is so well written as well, your trip to cambodia sounds really different than anywhere else as far as the poverty...I don't know if I can deal with seeing that alone! I hope all is good with you, stay safe and healthy! P.S. my purse was stolen in Laos with every camera...every photo of my trip this past month...gone. yup. it hurts. I was wondering if there is any way (once you get home and are settled) if you could send me some Pai pictures...I would so appreciate it becuase I have none!