The Grand Palace and a protest over 20 Baht

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Today was all about getting to the 'must see' and cultural activities that are scattered around one particular area of Bangkok, about 20 minutes from our hotel in Ploenchit. On the list were the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, Khlongs and the Amulet Market.

We had a great breakfast thanks to the Renaissance Ratchaprasong Hotel - I don't recall eating again until 9pm! Having arrived at the hotel after midnight, been upgraded to a suite, enjoyed a breakfast fit for kings and generally lapping up the beautiful 5 star decor I think we momentarily forgot we were in SE Asia when we jumped into our cab and stated The Grand Palace as our destination and blissfully went on our way. Halfway through our journey BJ turned to me and whispered "the meter isn't on". I was actually surprised not only by his observation, but by my lack of it. Until this point, I had been the one constantly telling him we don't get in a cab that doesn't offer a meter (thanks Trip Advisor!). I asked the driver why the meter wasn't on. I don't recall the response but there was banter and remember him saying 220 baht to the Grand Palace. This equates to just over $7AUD but we knew this was a rip off despite being the first cab we'd been in. I refused and came in at 120. He said 150 and we let the banter fizzle out without really finalising the transaction. We only had 200 Baht on us and in 100 Baht notes. I had read somewhere that it was hard to get change which prepared us to hand over 200 Baht. We knew we needed money out as this was the last of it in our wallet and were so frustrated at the situation, so when we were close to the Grand Palace we got out of the cab and paid him his 200 Baht. I'm sure I could make out a smile on his face as we walked away from the cab.

After withdrawing money and walking past touts selling fans, maps, fruit, water, art, long pants (for the temple) and countless other wares we entered the Grand Palace and were struck by it's beauty. While we aren't exactly a culturally astute couple, we were in the moment as we observed the remarkable architecture around us.

After an hour or so here we went for a walk to find the nearby Amulet Market that I had highlighted in my guide book. It was supposed to be a few blocks up, around to the left and then a left again. Still walking 45 minutes later and dripping in sweat, we took refuge in an airconditioned information booth - however such acquired information had us wandering another 20 minutes around a university campus. No one was able to help us but finally we stumbled across the market. Unfortunately by this stage the anticipation was long gone and we blew it off only moments later.

Walking out to the river between market stalls, we crossed possibly every terrain known to man including sections with upturned crates, sandbags and wooden planks with a girth so small that required some unfamiliar manipulation of the human body to allow an oncomer through (or risk falling the meter or so to the muddy ground). We weaved in and out of kitchens and shop fronts and finally arrived at the river's edge - brown, muddy water. After a bit of negotiation on Khlongs tour prices, we waited for a long tailed boat. And waited. And watched others get on their boats. And finally ours came only moments before BJ would have left for the hotel without me I'm sure.

An interesting sight seeing a part of Bangkok we wouldn't have otherwise seen, but not worth any hype. Their idea of a floating market left a lot to be desired - one woman in one canoe does not a floating market make! Pushing every item onto us, and guilting us into a beer for our driver, we came away paying at least 5 or 6 times the price you can get elsewhere in the city.

A minor arguement later about BJs lack of negotiating skills had me realising I had too much sun and language barriers for one day so we decided after the river to head back to the hotel for a rest. Well! Landing at Wat Pho where I had wanted to go previously but no longer had the stamina for, we were greeted by a local who helped us off the boat. And then demanded 20 Baht for a landing fee. He even had a sign! Well pissed off, we handed him 20 Baht and went to depart but he asked for the other 20 Baht as there were two of us. Already feeling totally ripped off (I know, I write this in shame as 20 Baht is roughly 80cents, but when you are being hassled for money everywhere you go, somewhere, for some reason, you WILL snap) I went into 'don't mess with me' mode (it doesn't venture out much in OZ but feels quite at home in SE Asia!) and told him we weren't paying because his sign just says 20 Baht Landing Fee - not per person. We paid our 20 Baht and we weren't paying any more. And that was that. He let us go.

We found possibly the best cab driver in SE Asia to take us back to our hotel. This of course is comparative to the situation; we only perceived him to be God's gift to Bangkok tourists after 20 minutes of rejections from cab drivers who wouldn't use a meter, and tuk tuk drivers saying they'd only take us to our destination if we stopped for some shopping. Using the meter we paid only 80 Baht and we gave the nice cab driver a tip. Lesson learnt! Persevere!

Back at the hotel we discovered we had access to the Club Lounge and partook in high tea, cocktails and city views. Right then. Right there. We reeked of vacation.

The rest of the night's activities were spent experiencing separate things - I went for an hour long foot massage for about $7 followed by a 2.5 hour walk to Sukhumvit and the night markets. I felt so alive pounding the pavement, like I knew the area. Not engaging with the vendors but smiling and continuing on. I hadn't realised I'd walked so long. I came across this side of town's answer to Patpong Market with ladyboys, pink neon signs and old men strolling alongside petite Asian women (I use this term lightly) no doubt looking for an ATM. I had my first taste of real street food - a pork sausage cooked on the street and served to me in a plastic bag with herbs, juices and some lettuce. This and a drink set me back a dollar for dinner. Still hard to comprehend!

Meanwhile, BJ was living it up at one of his three things on his to do list this holiday. He had already ticked the indoor themepark in KL off the list and now a Muay Thai night was in order. I wasn't there to recall the happenings of the night but I was there to recall the drunken escapade as he stumbled through the door of our 5 star hotel, video camera in hand. Turns out drinks are 60 baht ($2AUD) and hard to refuse.

Looks like Chatuchak Market will be conquered solo tomorrow.

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