Published: March 5th 2011February 27th 2011
The Butanding Whisperer of Donsol
His name is Randy. He is our B.I.O. (Butanding Interaction Officer). He met his first Butanding or whale shark when he was 12. That was nearly 20 years ago. By this time, you may consider them playmates.
Not just one sighting. Not just two whale sharks (or butandings
, as they are called here). Today is my lucky day. Three whale sharks. Three sightings. Each time, the butanding "stayed" with us at least a full minute before bidding us goodbye with a gentle flip and dive . What an adrenaline rush!
You think I'm a diver? To tell you honestly, I am perennially jealous reading about diver-bloggers narrate their undersea adventures. Them seeing the undersea world . The colors. The tranquility of the deep blue sea. The anticipation of meeting and encountering unknown, unnamed species. I never dreamed of doing what they do. Thought I'd never have the nerve. I'd be quite content seeing a few colorful tiny sea creatures with my grandchildren and enjoying a boat ride on a clear, peaceful day. Besides, I do not even have the basic skills. You think I'm a swimmer? Naaaah. I couldn't even snorkel properly , much more swim a few meters from the boat. But on this blessed Sunday, all I have going for me is sheer guts. Raw courage. Complete faith that my life vest won't desert me. And total dependence on Randy, our B.I.O. (Butanding Interaction
Make it a leisurely drive from Legazpi to Donsol. This is a typical scene: 2 men, squatting and chatting, a rooster by their side.
Officer). God bless him and the rest of his crew.
The Way to Donsol, Sorsogon
Legazpi City is in Albay. Donsol in Sorsogon. Both Albay and Sorsogon form part of the 6 province Bicol Region which includes Camarines Norte, Camarines, Sur, Sorsogon, Albay, Catanduanes and Masbate. The region is famous for its pili nuts (better than almonds, if you ask me), spicy and coconut-based cuisine. Donsol is 66 kilometers from the capital of the province, Sorsogon City. Bicol is the southernmost tip of the major island group called Luzon. Agriculture and fishing are the major sources of livelihood in this area. Blessed by the fertile volcanic soil from Mount Mayon, but cursed by its location within the typhoon belt. The region is one of the poorest in the Philippines. Consequently, some of the most hardworking Filipinos live in this area too. In a way, adversity has its more favorable results.
Legazpi City is just an hour's flight from Manila. Donsol is an hour's drive from Legazpi City. One may opt to take the jeepney from the Central Terminal in Legazpi City to reach Barrio Dangkalan in Donsol, Sorsogon. Along the way, one breathes fresh
Are you prepared for this?
A gentle, graceful glide of the gentle giant in the waters of Donsol, Sorsogon.
air, feels a gentle breeze, sees various shades of green as egrets circle some rice paddies, meets simple rural folks who seem to have the time of day for a good laugh and a chat. The transformation hits you as you find flip flop shod and backpack-touting tourists walking along muddy roads now lined with inns and homestays. A quick check disclosed that a homestay (where you rent the entire house) goes for P1,800 a night for a group of as many as 6 pax. Maybe more. Nearer the Donsol registration center and boat rentals, one also finds inns where air-conditioned rooms go for P1,500 twin sharing to P2,500 family room. Just off the Donsol Registration Center is a Dive Center and some other stores and rental shops where one gets to rent the snorkeling equipment from mask to flippers. Off another area is where one can order lunch or some snacks.
This sleepy obscure fishing town has since emerged as the Butanding capital of the world
, having been rewarded for their "kindness" to the gentle giants whose migration highway crossed the waters of Donsol. Nowhere else have they been sighted in a larger group than in
1 B.I.O. , 2 Spotters, 2 Boat Crew
Each boat has 2 to take care of the engine, 2 spotters and 1 Butanding Interaction Officer to swim with the "team"
the waters of Sorsogon. Locals talk of how they thought of the "big fish" scaring off their potential catch for the day, yet they never considered harming these gentle creatures. They instead co-existed with these huge "pets" and for their tolerance, they have been deservedly rewarded. From November to May
, the fisherfolks here act either as B.I.O. which stands for Butanding Interaction Officer, "spotters" or boat crew. A team of 5 take as many as 6-7 "butanding enthusiasts" on their boat for a 3 hour ride but non-guaranteed encounter with the whale sharks. They say one should be extremely unlucky not to have at least a single Butanding sighting on a clear ssunny day. It is another story though when it rains or when you have an overcast sky as when we arrived on this February 27, 2011.
The Butanding Whisperer
His name is Randy
. He hails from this very place that crosses the whale sharks' migration highway. Randy has "known" these whale sharks since he was 12. He is now 31. I never asked, but I suspect Randy never had formal swimming lessons. Nor diving lessons. But he sure could hold his breath
Randy's Brief Intro
Some instructions: Go left, Go Right, Swim forward, LOOK DOWN! As Randy gives a briefing, my good friend Beth translated for the benefit of 2 French Canadians, 1 German and 1 Nepali. We make a good team!
down there , donned only with his snorkeling equipment.
When Randy barked "swim forward", me and them boys were focused on only one thing. To see our first Butanding. After all, we have been waiting a good hour and were near frustration with one of the boys depressingly saying "I only need to see ONE....." These boys were with another team the day earlier, and they have not been lucky. Today is their second attempt, and the overcast sky was no encouragement. You see, those butanding spotters find it doubly hard to see the "shadows" on a cloudy day like today. When one of them prayerfully chanted "Butanding.......Butanding.........Butanding", Randy very ably balanced himself (while the boat is cruising) on the bamboo pole crossing the front of the boat and assisted the spotters. As we all chorused and chanted, the boat crew were so focused on their jobs. I admire their patience, their quiet competence.
As if on cue, Randy gently reminded us to get ready on the left side of the boat. Frankly, I was so afraid I couldn't balance myself sitting on the edge of the boat and would have jumped in before Randy's
Butanding! Butanding! Butanding!
It's been an hour, and still no Butanding. All's quiet until one of the boys chanted "Butanding....Butanding.......Butanding...." That's when one of them said "I only need to see one." :)
signal. Mercifully, I was ready when Randy barked "JUMP". We swam forward, or rather, Randy pulled me forward so I can "swim" in tandem with the boys. I've never been so excited in my whole life. What an adrenaline rush, just knowing a Butanding lurks beneath us.
When Randy barked "Look down", I almost panicked to see the Butanding right beneath me. Maybe 2-3 meters below me. I was so afraid my legs would touch its head and send the whale shark on a wild spree. I could see the 3 boys in our team swimming under me and beside the gentle giant, with good old me contentedly swimming over this unbelievably gentle sea creature. If I could frame my feelings now, you would see a framed painting splashed with a quiet solitude, evoking a serenity heretofore unknown.
I do not know how far we were from our boat. Who cares? Until I saw another man dive deeper under the whale shark , swimming along, as if reuniting with an old friend.
I recognize his swimming shorts. I know that pattern. And remembered they were Randy's! So who's swimming with me? I looked up to catch my breath to
I'm All Ready
Oh yeah, so long as Randy never leaves my side!
see the ends of those snorkeling tubes, as everyone in our team and those from another boat were busily watching the whale shark swim underneath us. It must have been a full minute, likely longer. But without Randy by my side, I cannot swim forward WITH the whale shark. By the time Randy came up, the Butanding gently showed its side and white underbelly as it dove deeper. Perhaps in search of it plankton meal.
Our boat suddenly appeared from nowhere. Perhaps Randy gave the signal that our new friend has left us for his meal. The crew put out the rusty ladder for me to climb up as the other boys waited for their turn. I was onboard , happily watching each of the boys get on the boat, hugging Randy and jumping up and down with joy. I was still feeling "high" from the experience, and my mind captured those scenes way better than any camera could . Pure joy. Young men in their mid-20's acting like little boys. Randy almost too shy as these 3 young men hugged him so tightly in gratitude for this awesome animal experience. Yes, that memory will stay in my mind for many, many years. Another "framed feeling" stored in my memory bank
Randy very kindly allowed us to have our 2nd and 3rd Butanding experience in the 3 hours that we rented the boat. The boys longed for a 4th and final encounter, as I opted out, quite happy with the 3 sightings. Randy stayed on the boat, hoping to get the Butanding to "show up" for the benefit of my new Nepalese friend, Ava, and Beth, both of whom chose to stay on the boat. Without the Butanding whisperers, the young men in our team came back empty-handed. But no way are they complaining. Three sightings in a couple of hours ain't bad! Especially on a cloudy, rainy day like today. As for Ava, coming from a landlocked country like Nepal, this boat ride by itself is a most cherished adventure for her. Everybody happy!
As the boat sailed towards shore, the boys swapped stories of their experiences. One of them excitedly said that I was always on top of the whale shark. Thanks to Randy. I suspect the butanding stayed with us long enough because of Randy. They must
Change Position. Go RIGHT!
Randy barks to change position and get ready to jump on the right side of the boat. We oblige. We wait. Oh, how exciting!
be friends for 2 decades now. Perhaps playmates is the more appropriate word. This shy, quiet young man has been interacting with this whale shark since he was 12. When I asked him what he does off - season, Randy said he goes to Manila to work with a landscaping team. He does gardening. Talk about flora and fauna. He must really have a green thumb for the flowers, and a gray thumb for the whale sharks? I don't know. But I truly, truly respect the quiet dignity and warm kindness of Randy and his crew. They took good care of us. Not much fanfare. No fuzzing over us. But we know they were all watching out for us. They all seem too shy. They love their butandings, knowing how much these sea creatures have improved their lives. The Donsol fisherfolks offered a safe harbor for these gentle giants, and they have been rightfully rewarded.
When you come to this area, be sure to make this one hour trip from Legazpi City to Donsol, Sorsogon. Best time is from November through May. I will most certainly go back, next time with my family. These fisherfolks make for
Off we go.......
When Randy shouts "Look down" , be ready to be AWED by this gentle giant. Oh, what an awesome animal experience!
a good example of ecotourism. And these Butandings with their broad, flattened heads and large, very terminal mouths with checkerboard patterns on their backs are truly a sight to behold. Very gentle, friendly and playful, allowing humans to swim and interact with them, as they gently glide alongside our boat. And while you're here, be kind to this community of about 47,000 fishermen and farmers. They live off the livelihood gained from the Butanding phenomenon half of the year, and scrape a livelihood the remainder of the year. More so when the typhoons hit them. And they get it way too often to have a decent living. They never ask, nor do they even drop hints. But it will go a long way to help them with a more generous tip. After all, they deserve them. Treat these locals as you would treat a place where you would "park" your pets. You may not be around the whole time, but you draw comfort in the fact that there are guardians , caretakers and caregivers for your pets. The Butandings are here because these locals take good care of them and leave them unharmed. They play with them, interact with them.
After our 1st Butanding Encounter
We can't contain the joy and excitement. The adrenaline rush. Oh, you should see these young men jump up and down. As soon as they got on the boat, they surprised Randy with a big hug!
Despite the poverty, it never crossed their minds to harm these gentle creatures. Such kindness deserves to be rewarded.
My Butanding Encounter is by far my most awesome animal experience. Another one off my bucket list. The idea of swimming with the graceful butandings is scarier than actually interacting with them. Really. I do not know if I'd say this same thing if I saw the Butanding we sighted open its big mouth. But there you go. Mouths closed, they are simply fascinating. Go!
Butandings or whale sharks are vegetarians
. They only eat plankton and krill, which are found abundant in the very very salty waters of Donsol. There is no report of whale sharks taking humans as prey!
Donsol is a quiet community of only 47,000 people
. They live off farming and fishing until a big concentration of whale sharks were sighted in 1998, inviting the attention of WWF and ATF. The sightings changed the landscape and ignited an economic boom in the area. Whale sharks live over a hundred years old. "Puberty" at 20 years old! Biggest fish in the world
After the 2nd Sighting!
My problem then was jumping AHEAD of Randy's orders :)) As my butt tried to balance on one side of the boat, my ears were tuned to that all important word..........JUMP! Now Randy tells me to get ON the boat.
only measure from 15 ft. to as long as 40 ft. in length! Our boat can easily rest on it silvery, polka-dotted back. They swim near the surface, allowing the "spotters" to see their shadows.
Donsol is now not only a feeding place or "dining area" for the butandings. Of late, they sighted baby whale sharks. That means, the place has now become a berthing ground for the butandings. Who knows where they go after May? Anybody's guess. But the locals are confident they will come back, for yet another wholesome ecotourism adventure. Most important trivia:
You need not know how to dive nor swim to have a Butanding Encounter. Just be sure you have a good B.I.O. like Randy to swim with you, and PULL you towards the nearest Butanding. Oh btw, you may reach Randy with this number : +63910 5485647
Check out this link
And here are some "borrowed photos" from a fellow TravelBlogger who went a day after we did, using the same B.I.O. Randy who presumably charmed those same Butandings!