Blogs from Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan, Asia - page 2

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Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa » Chitral December 11th 2007

I'm sitting in front of a fire blazing in a fireplace. Timber rafters, concrete floor, windows and a door that don't quite close, two beds covered with my junk. This is "my" room: the family's guest room. There were 15 people sleeping here before I got here. Now it seems like there's hardly room for another person without crowding. Sitting on a plastic chair next to me is Wali Khan, my landlord, wearing light blue shalwar kameez and a beige "chitrali" wool hat; he won't shave his week-old stubble until the first day of /chowmas/ when the neighbors will come with flowers and tell him to put aside his mourning for his dead relative and celebrate the festival. "I think I'm even older than you" he had said when I first met him. He's trying to ... read more

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa » Chitral September 19th 2007

Il piccolo minivan supera agilmente il Lowari Pass a piu' di 3000 metri d'altezza e si entra cosi' nel distretto di Chitral, all'angolo a Nord-Ovest del Pakistan, un territorio decisamente remoto circondato dalle possenti cime dell'Hindukush. L'aria e' frizzante e cristallina, una vera e propria boccata d'ossigeno dopo quella ammorbata delle grandi citta' di pianura; il cielo ritorna ad essere azzurro e con un po di fortuna le grosse nubi bianche si terranno lontane dalle alte cime che spiccano gia' innevate all'orizzonte. Chitral e' il centro principale della regione ma si rivela comunque una tranquillo paesotto di montagna con un vecchio forte, antica sede della famiglia reale, ed una caratteristica moschea che ravviva il piatto paesaggio urbano. La valle e' dominata all'orizzonte dalla maestosa vetta del Tirich Mir, che con i... read more
Giu' dal Lowari Pass
Chitral: Il Tirich Mir domina la valle
Chitral: Shahi Masjid, la grande moschea

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa August 21st 2007

Dir I take a seat in the sweltering mini-van's third bench next to the window. There is not the slightest breeze in the depot. Three men from Gudjarat, a traditional community in the Punjab suffer the bench with me. Pakistanis from down country are darker and chubbier than those in the north who could easily pass for caucasians. They are four traveling together, their older friend in the next bench. They are advocates. I assume they mean lawyers. From Timargah, we climb north along the Panchkora River. The valley narrows and the slopes grow denser with pine trees. We arrive in Dir a little before sunset. In five hours I've traveled 160km. The market slopes down from the bus station to Dir Hotel. Exhausted but responsible for 25kg strapped to my back, I brace myself for ... read more
spice shop, Dir
beautiful Bedford
roadside eatery

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa » Naran June 19th 2007

Left Islamabad at 6:30am and reached Naran at 7:00pm. But you can reach there in approximately 9 hrs. The distance between Islamabad and Naran is almost 250 km. The road up to Balakot is excellent. But as soon as you cross the bridge at Balakot to get to the other side of the river and onto Kaghan valley, the road is not that pleasant to drive at. The road has been damaged due to the earthquake that struck the area a couple of years back. Most of the damage to the road is from Balakot up to Kewai. After Kewai you will come across land slides which has covered the road and now the vehicles can cross it while driving over the land slides. In most places only a single vehicle can cross over it ... read more
On the way to Naran
Kaghan Valley
Kaghan Valley2

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa » Peshawar November 29th 2006

PESHAWAR Arriviamo che e' tarda serata e veniamo lasciati in un bazaar che l'e' un bel troiaio (si puo' scrivere???) niente male.... Optiamo per una sistemazione nel cuore della Old City, piu' vicini quindi al cuore della citta'. Il tempo di una cosina da mangiare e di rimediare il "necessaire" e a nanna. Quando ci mettiamo a girare la mattina successiva ci troviamo davanti ad uno spettacolo incredibile: mai, in nessuno dei nostri viaggi finora (chi piu' chi meno) ci era mai capitato di trovarci in un posto cosi'. Migliaia di persone sulle strade appartenenti a decine e decine di etnie diverse, con i loro tratti somatici peculiari, i loro abbigliamenti le loro usanze. Pochissime le donne in giro e quelle poche con burqa... Anche fermarsi qualche minuto in un angolo di una stradina ad osservare ... read more
Riparazione di zainetto
Ancora fra le strade di Peshawar
Donne con burqa

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa » Peshawar November 27th 2006

LA CADUTA DEGLI EROI La "vendetta di Montezuma" colpisce anche in Pakistan Dai diamanti non nasce niente, dal letame nascono fiori. Fabrizio De Andrè E così un bel pomeriggio parto da Quetta e mi accingo a lasciare il Baluchistan. Fino all'ultimo son indeciso sulla mia destinazione: arrivare a Lahore direttamente non se ne parla, troppo distante, così opto per uno stop-over: fino al giorno della partenza son propenso ad andarmene a Multan, ma alla fine deciso di fare una piccola pazzia, e cambio meta. E' infatti da quando son partito che, negli Highlights del Pakistan, nella mia LP, continuo a guardare una foto che ritrae un Mausoleo, e a dirmi: "Questo voglio proprio vederlo". Mi basta poi leggere cosa la guida dice al riguardo, per convincermi: "Famosa meta di pellegrinaggi, dove ben pochi stranieri arrivano... read more
BAHAWALPUR
VITA RURALE
READY?

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa » Peshawar September 26th 2006

Saturday September 23rd Another though ride ahead of us, but at least it would be the last before India. Technically it should be 11 hours to Peshawar but we'd been told this was about as optimistic as a "welcomed with roses" statement coming from georgie before the Iraq war. It started badly as they told Samuel it was full. He hadn't bought his ticket the day before so he was out of luck. It seemed a lot of people were missing and after a ride around town he went back to the station and picked Samuel as well as a few chitralis. There were still a bunch of seat missing in front but we figured it was for women who would join on the way. Sylvain and I were close to the front and luckily our ... read more
Khyber Pass
My escort, a random guy and my driver
Plenty of stuff to kill peope

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa » Chitral September 22nd 2006

Wednesday September 20th Today I was leaving Gilgit and the Northern Area for Chitral in the North-West Frontier province, right next to Afghanistan. Chitral is a big valley blocked from the rest of Pakistan 6 months a year. It is in the extreme north-west of Pakistan, just south of the Wakhan Corridor of Afghanistan (the little handle that sticks out of Afghanistan, a little colonial fantasy) and east of Nuristan (the Land of Light, named so after the muslims killed every single one of the infidel local inhabitants in a jihad slightly more than a hundred years ago). The ride to Chitral was no piece of cake: 11 hours to Mastuj in a normal bus and then 5 hours to Chitral itself in a jeep (the bridges after Mastuf are too small to accomodate the bus). ... read more
Checkpoint
Shandaur Pass
Chitral town 2

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa » Peshawar August 29th 2006

August 29 Woke up early and headed to the passport office, to get permission to enter the tribal areas after being told no after waiting a good hour it was onwards to the Afghan embassy where it took us two hours to get visas even though the system was bloody confusing. After this it was off to the Kyhber pass agency were we were told that we did not need their permission as we would not be staying there and would rather need permission from the home office. After a stressfull time at the Home office and running several blocks to find a place for passport copies and also buying the officials a nice lunch we had our permission to enter the tribal areas. In celebration we went and bought burkas and kamizs along with some ... read more
Peshawar
Peshawar market
Peshawar sunset

Asia » Pakistan » Khyber Pakhtunkhwa July 22nd 2006

So after leaving Peshawar and the comfort of Michael's we caught the minibus from hell up to Chitral in the North of NWFP. It was 13 hours in a van built for 16 with 25 others, a crazy driver with bad taste in Punjabi Pop and some screaming children. We were not happy chappies. Thankfully the town of Chitral was totally refreshing, truly Pakastani in all senses and nestled in a beautiful green valley beneath rocky mountains. We only spent the day in town, wandering the shops and eating with the locals, before we headed off to the Kalasha Valleys. The Kalasha are the only non-Muslim group still living in Pakistan, and they are a wonderful, unique and colourful people. The jeep ride in was amazing... terraced green fields and a deep valley carved in two ... read more




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