Kathmandhu to Pokhara

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April 15th 2013

Published: May 5th 2013

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SteveRTW

Spices

Kathmandhu

After a brief stopover in Kuala Lumpur arrived to the crazy world of Kathmandhu, its manic, polluted streets full of motor-scooters and buzzing atmosphere providing a stark contrast to the orderliness of Singapore.

Visited the central Durbar Square with its impressive former royal palace, intricately carved temples and home of the Kumari Devi living goddess - very young girl brought selected from a local village and periodically paraded through streets until puberty. Explored the palace with its (very) extensive and eclectic museum on the ex-monarchy including numerous hunting trophies and a random selection of personal effects, and climbed tower for some hazy city views.

After a brief interlude to fix broken camera (braving more mad streets and enlisting a helpful policeman to cross traffic at one junction), caught a taxi to the atmospheric Swayambhunath Buddhist temple, a steep stairway past monkeys and street-sellers leading to an impressive Stupa tower dominating the hillside. Next headed to Patan south of the main city - another world-heritage site with its Durbar Square crowded with stunning temples, and visited the fascinating museum in the ex-palace covering the main Buddhist and Hindu religions and the unique Nepalese fusion of beliefs.

Escaping the fumes

Garuda Statue

Durbar Square, Kathmandhu

and bustle of Thamel and Kathmandhu caught a bus east to Pokhara, surviving some Nepalese-style driving relying on extensive horn-use to dodge oncoming vehicles on the twisty mountain roads. Chilled out for a couple of days, enjoying the idyllic lakeside location although haze (pollution?) obscured the high mountains. Took a steep hike to the World Peace Pagoda for some views over the city, visited the colourful Nepalese New Year festival and started another climb to the top of Sarangkot mountain, aborted due to an incoming thunderstorm, sheltering at a local farmer's house watching the rain hammer down...

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