Si Phan Don is a landlocked archipelago in the Mekong, just above the Laos border with Cambodia. Its name means 4,000 Islands, a notional rather than strictly accurate indication of the profusion of sandbanks, islets, and full-blown islands in the area. Reaching it was a tedious process. The guesthouse in Pakxe tried to tell us there were no seats available on the minibus, even though we'd booked them. Then we had to pay extra for a boat trip to our island of choice that should have been included in the original ticket price. And then the skipper appeared to be inexperienced at navigating the river, resulting in us running aground several times. Don Khong is the main backpacker haven, but we'd opted for Don Khon (yes, just a g of difference) instead, hoping for more tranquility
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