Blogs from East, Laos, Asia - page 6

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Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan August 10th 2011

The other day in Phnom Penh I went to a fortune teller, they foretold that I had a dark secret that I hadn't told my family and similarly they had one that they hadn't told me. I entered a deep meditation on the subject as I entered the vacuum of one's own mind to its furthest reaches to find what could I possibly have kept secret from my family. And then on a humid night as I watched the rain scatter over the tubes of Vang Vieng it struck me, at about the same time as the lao whiskey shots did. - It must be Flash. My motorbike, my dear Flash, aptly named due to the electrics not working. It all started out one sunny day in the middle of March. We had just swung out ... read more
5 on a Bike
B'Limey!
Baby Rider

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan July 24th 2011

As I mentioned in my previous blog, we left Luang Prabang by express bus for Phonsavan - an eight hour journey down highway 13 and then onto highway 7. Both highways are now paved which made the journey a little less life threatening. We were lucky to have a half empty bus. There were only seven of us foreigners on the bus - and we had all been on the same slow boat to Luang Prabang. The rest of the bus was half full of Laos people. We were able to take two seats each to ourselves, which was going to make for better sleeping. At least, we THOUGHT we would sleep. It is pretty hard to sleep when the road makes a roller coaster feel tame. The road wound through mountains, following the countour of ... read more
Warning sign at Site 1
Jars
The biggest Jar

Asia » Laos » East » Vieng Xai June 14th 2011

The bus to Vieng Xay was short and sweet, we arrived early and headed off to find a hotel and settled on somewhere cheap but a little grotty. The scenery outside our window, however, made up for this. As we only planned to spend a day here we found somewhere to eat before heading to the caves. These caves are where the Pathet Lao hid during the secret war and the area was bombed hard. People had to stay in the caves during the day and farm and travel at night to avoid being seen. We heard about some truly horrible things the Americans’ did here, but were amazed at how the Lao people had created a ‘cave town’ here. We cycled round the caves with our guide who spoke little English but was nice enough ... read more
Untouched
Rice fields
Kaysone Phomnivanh's house

Asia » Laos » East » Sam Neua June 14th 2011

We had decided on Sam Neau as our guidebook told us it was a worthwhile little picturesque place to stop by on the way to the Vietnam border. The surrounding mountains and paddy fields were in fact quite beautiful, but everywhere you look there is some kind of construction going on. I’m sure for the people who live there it’s a good thing but scaffolding and piles of sand and rubble everywhere aren't very pretty to look at. We walked around town to find a guesthouse and eventually settled on the first place we saw. We spent some time online before grabbing some dinner at what seemed to be the only restaurant in town. We were tired from the long bus journey and so slept in the next morning. We wanted to visit near by Vieng ... read more
A little one learning the trade young
Remote
Beautiful weather

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan June 10th 2011

We arrived in Phonsavan in the afternoon and looked around a few guesthouses before settling on somewhere. Some of our minibus group also stayed there while a couple of the others stayed at a place round the corner. Another Brit couple were already staying there and we all decided as a group to book a jars tour for the following morning. We headed out for some food and had drinks with the group at a bar called ‘craters’ which is surrounded by huge bomb shells. Next morning we left around 8.30am to visit jar site number 3, an old Russian tank and then jar site number 2. After a lunch of noodle soup we went on to site number 1 before visiting the ‘bomb village’ where the locals have used bomb shells as fences, BBQs and ... read more
defused bombs
Jar
Plain of jars

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan April 11th 2011

After leaving the beautiful Luang Prabang, we took a horrendous 6 hour journey (which felt like the world's worst rollercoaster) to a gritty town called Phonsavan. We found out that until a month before we arrived they didn't have streetlamps, and so tourists would often hurt themselves walking back to their hotel at night! During the Vietnam war, the CIA conducted a secret war in Laos, as it bordered Vietnam. During the 15 years it is estimated that the CIA flew a bombing mission over Laos every 9 minutes! This meant that over the bombed areas 12 tonnes of bombs were dropped per square kilometre. There were also lots of CIA officers in Laos, the most famous of which was Colonel Tony Poe, who used to cut off his enemies ears and staple them to reports ... read more

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan December 29th 2010

A postscript to Phonsavan and the Plain of Jars. In a change to our schedule we crammed in the visits to the three main “jar” sites into Tuesday to free up Wednesday morning. Having learned something of the Secret War, I asked Phonsy if there was anywhere we could visit to learn about the UXO removal plan. He said that this was sometimes possible since he had a friend who worked at the regional centre. After a couple of phone calls we got permission to visit the following morning. This meant a fairly early start and a chilly ride out to the regional office on the edge of town for 8 o’clock. We were met by the regional coordinator and given a detailed run through of the various regional centres and the different tasks that they ... read more

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan December 28th 2010

As I said (briefly) yesterday we’re in North East Laos now, close to the Plain of Jars. This region is well known for two reasons, the jars themselves and the so-called Hidden War. The jars are the subject of much debate and truth is, no-one really knows their history. They range in size from 1m to over 2m high, with a diameter of between 50cm and 1m. The material appears to be limestone and each one has been hollowed out using (presumably) a harder stone. The age? Well, certainly thousands of years but no-one can say for sure. The first theory is that they were used for fermenting alcohol from rice, to be used for celebrations, That would tie in nicely with current day Laos. However in the 1930’s a French archaeologist found human ashes under ... read more

Asia » Laos » East » Phonsavan December 27th 2010

After a short break (3 days I think), I have found an internet cafe again. I've only got a few minutes but hopefully I can get back here later or possibly tomorrow. We've just spent 3 nights in Luang Prabang (oh, hang on, Alison has just turned green with envy again!!). It was as nice as I remember and a great place to unwind. Our hotel was a little way from the centre, which was a nuisance but that did encourage me to rent a bike a couple pf times to explore the town and the back lanes. I even skipped one of the organised half day trips to get a little more time to relax. Seen one waterfall, seen 'em all I reckon. We've had another long day on the road today, travelling north east ... read more

Asia » Laos » East December 10th 2010

I went up to Nong Khiaw by minivan on the 10th. I was the first collected from my hotel and the driver invited me to take the front passenger seat. Although the ride was better than most I have taken, the seatbelt didn't work and I was left to grip the handle over the door to keep my seat in several tight corners. Nong Khiaw is not a major attraction. I had the option to take a kayak tour up the Nam Ou. The tour involved taking a passenger boat up to Muang Knoi with the kayaks dragged behind, then after spending a few hours in Muang Knoi, kayaking down the Nam Ou back to Nong Khiaw. The tour was expensive, more than a million kip if no-one joined me. I decided to travel up to ... read more
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