Blogs from Kyrgyzstan, Asia
"Humankind is the only creature that refuses to be what it is" -Camus Winter never seems to last very long. No matter how many days we get out in the cold, there never seems to be enough hours spent on frozen water of some sort. The more one becomes informed about and examines the finite crystals that fall from the sky, the more it becomes clear that snow is basically a miracle. This year saw less of these miracles falling on the Sierra but it did not prevent the making of some epic days. Sunrise to the beat of a pounding heart, long skin tracks scribe a human line in a wilderness of white. Tools sink into supple ice, soft as plastic, rare as gold in the state of eternal sun. Blue hardwax grips but barely, ... read more
Hicran Cigdem Yorgancioglu Krygzstan Bishkek 2011 Kirgizistan Biskek (98th country)
Published: October 3rd 2011Asia » Kyrgyzstan » BishkekHicran Ciğdem Yorgancıoğlu ‘nun Kyrgyzstan Devr-i Alem Hicri Alem Hicran Çiğdem Seyahatnamesi’nden ..seyahat notlarından alıntılardır . Her hakkı saklıdır .. / Eserin tüm telif hakları H.Çiğdem Yorgancıoğlu’na aittir . Eserin izinsiz kopyalanması çoğaltımı ,yayını ,dağıtımı halinde 5846 sayılı Fikir ve Sanat Eserleri Kanunun hükümleri geçerli olacaktır. Hicran Ciğdem Yorgancıoğlu ‘nun Kyrgyzstan Devr-i Alem Hicri Alem Hicran Çiğdem Seyahatnamesi’nden ..seyahat notlarından alıntılardır . Her hakkı saklıdır .. / Eserin tüm telif hakları H.Çiğdem Yorgancıoğlu’na aittir . Eserin izinsiz kopyalanması çoğaltımı ,yayını ,dağıtımı halinde 5846 sayılı Fikir ve Sanat Eserleri Kanunun hükümleri geçerli olacaktır. Hicran Ciğdem Yorgancıoğlu ‘nun Kyrgyzstan Devr-i Alem Hicri Alem Hicran Çiğdem Seyahatna... read more
The adventures of Zoe and Susan are still well on track. Leaving you last time in Uzbekistan we have since managed to tick off the remaining two Stans on our journey, and boy what a way to say goodbye to them. Kazakhstan was more of a stop off than a proper visit as technically we didn't visit any cities or landmarks. Instead we travelled along a soviet built road which acts as the go between Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. Along the way we had two bushcamps which gave us a little taster of things to come in, i.e green, mountains and snow. For the past month we have been boiling up along the deserts of central Asia, so a little bit of rain was a welcome relief. We had heard bad things about Kazakhstan but to be ... read more
I took a taxi to international bus terminal. Not surprised at its chaos. It looked no difference between public and private buses. I checked my note on which I wrote Russian name of my destination: Bishkek, but I didn’t find the bus. Some kind people directed me to some parked buses without signs. A lady pointed a bus and said “this one. We’re waiting.” I waited with her. At times other drivers came to ask me “Bishkek?” The lady said surely “it’s this one.” by limited English words. I got it: those buses were not going to the urban region, I need to change car at suburb town. 30min later, came the driver, we set out. The driver pulled up the bus at the gate of custom. We got off and lined up into the building ... read more
Adversity amidst the fertile jailoos
Published: June 19th 2011Asia » Kyrgyzstan » Kochkor » Sarala-SazI am no stranger to poverty, coming from a place where it is breathed in the air and served daily. Slums and cramped spaces; poor wages; dirty and chaotic city streets; local farmers, fishermen, and laborers toiling to feed their families at least once a day; diaspora of people to other countries; and poor, if not lack of access to health care and education. These are but some of the palpable realities faced by many back home. As such, I often need to reconcile what I see here in Kyrgyzstan countryside with their own realities. The greeneries, spacious white-washed houses, orderly villages, well-dressed residents, and sprawling jailoos are somehow tricking my mind into believing that people here live very easily. However, behind the beautiful façade are communities and people who are also very much struggling to ... read more
Only the occasional "shish, shish" and "drrr" to tell the horse to go and stop break the placidity of the surroundings. The gallops of the horses seamlessly blend with the hum of nearby river and the melodic hymns of the birds. The sweet scent of pine trees permeates the air. Verdant alpine mountains and poplar tree-lined valleys splash color to the framing snow-capped peaks. Chilly air contrasts with the heat of the sun upon the skin. Resistance is futile. I give in to the irresistible invitation of Kyrgyzstan mountains and join a number of other backpackers from couchsurfing in horse-trekking part of the Central Tian Shan mountain range in Karakol up to the Altyn Arashan hot spings in the middle of an alpine valley (3000 m) for camping. Karakol is an idyllic but sleepy town in ... read more
"Life here is difficult," said the young, good-looking driver. "Not many jobs here. Many go to other places." "Well, the situation is similar in the Philippines. People also go to other countries for better opportunities," I replied, as we cruised down the picturesque tree-lined road from the airport to my couchsurfing host's house. Made it at last to Kyrgyzstan. If there is one word that can describe the country, it is GREEN. Trees, steppes, rolling hills, and pasturelands are in all directions -- laced by very tall snow-capped mountain ranges at par with the Himalayas. The verdant landscape is just occasionally broken by white to beige houses. All worries brought by not planning disappeared as soon as I stepped into the country. "Are you Russian or Kyrgyz?" "Do I look Russian? They look so yellow to ... read more
I actually wrote this blog and had almost uploaded all the pictures right before we left Manas on Dec 30. It was in the process of uploading pics when I had to shut down the computer. When I got to Afghanistan, it took me a while to figure out the internet options here, and I didn't really have a way to get pictures onto my work computer in order to upload them. I've found a solution and am now publishing my previously undiscovered blog! Ugh. I spoke too soon yesterday. We got on the plane, ready to go, and they had us get off last minute because they needed it for a mission. There was a rumor going around that there weren't any flights for 96 hours, but fortunately that was a dirty piece of gossip. ... read more
So we meet again. I didn't really expect to deploy so soon again, but as things turned out, here I am. I have to try not to sound too salty because I know plenty of people who have deployed way more, and for longer times. The first one was fun, but I can see how this would get really old really fast. Not sure how people with families can cope! Enough lamenting, and on with the story telling! Our date of deployment was fudged a little at the end. First they give us a window of about 4 days that we might deploy so we can somewhat plan. Then they pick a day (ours happened to be one day BEFORE our window started) -- this usually doesn't happen until a week or two before we leave. ... read more
For the Journey, not the Destination: The Torugart Pass & Karakoram Highway
Published: February 8th 2012Asia » KyrgyzstanThe next day we had a 5.30am start to cross the border to China through the Torugart pass, one of the toughest & most remote border crossings in the world. Of the few homes we passed, many were made out of old disused train carriages, rusted single skeletons made new, usually with a yurt nearby, and a broken out house metres away. There were many shepherds, many herds of horses & goats, and miles & miles of wide open space. We drove & drove, watching the scenery change & feeling the oxygen levels sink every time we got out of the truck & did anything more strenuous than a stroll. Kyrgyzstan's red rocks & wide green slopes with beautiful blue rivers, gradually got a little more empty, a little more icey, a little less grassy, a ... read more




































