We paid in advance for a double sleeper berth on the 'deluxe' overnight coach to Jaisalmer, and sit waiting by the side of the road covered in dust from the constant stream of trucks trundling past. When it pulls in at 11pm it is far from deluxe and already jammed full of people...three people squeeze into seats for two and even the floor space is knee deep in slumbering bodies, and it smells like it's been this full for many hours already. The ticket guy assures us he will have our sleeping berth empty and ready for us in no time. We watch as, like some awful magic trick, a family sleepily emerge, one after the other, from our cabin. There are at least 3 adults and 5 kids squeezed in there, and I feel bad
... read more