Why I love India #5 - Varanasi
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Same Chai walla - 27 years later!
I kid you not - that in the left hand corner of the shot - on the top of the steps - was the SAME guy serving tea from a mud fireplace that was there back in 1982. He now has grandkids - but still takes his afternoon nap on the ghat when it get\\\'s hot. Seems happy!I first visited Varanasi as a young backpacker in 1980. I returned in 1982 intending to live there for some months and study Indian classical music form on my guitar (cut short by a ‘crisis’ enveloping a Swiss friend who then needed to be shepherded back to Switzerland via a Delhi clinic).
I did not get to revisit the city again until 2009, just for two weeks, made all the more enjoyable after meeting my now good friend Leila Epise (French) who taught me many things about ‘being’ and ‘playing’. I got to fly an Indian kite (after many many failed attempts - and only to have it 'cut' by a young master on a neighbouring rooftop and see my poor kite descend into the water of the Ganga); play cards (a particular French game called 'chotta' - sp?); just sit and be mindful of all going on; enjoy some amazing Indian food; swim (on the other side of the river - after getting there by boat - where it is 'less dirty'); and just connect with local people in a way I had not quite done before.
Some background from:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varanasi
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Renovating a boat in the traditional way
Without allowing one to be completely fleeced by an exorbitant tourist price - a boat ride on the river is to be recommended at any time - but specially at sunrise and sunset. Figure about Rs 100 for an hour if it's a guy you get to know. Benares or Banaras, is a city situated on the banks of the River Ganges in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, regarded as holy by Hindus, Buddhists, and Jains. It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and probably the oldest of India.
The culture of Varanasi is closely associated with the River Ganges and the river's religious importance. The city has been a cultural and religious centre in North India for several thousand years. The Benares Gharana form of Indian classical music developed in Varanasi, and many prominent Indian philosophers, poets, writers, and musicians resided or reside in Varanasi, including Kabir, Ravidas, Trailanga Swami, Munshi Premchand, Jaishankar Prasad, Acharya Shukla, Ravi Shankar, Girija Devi, Hariprasad Chaurasia, and Bismillah Khan. Tulsidas wrote Ramacharitamanas here, and Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath located near Varanasi (Kashi).
People often refer to Varanasi as "the city of temples", "the holy city of India", "the religious capital of India", "the city of lights", and "the city of learning."
American writer Mark Twain wrote: "Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put
Tourist Puja
While done in traditional authentic mode - this nightly event (sunset) is really put on for the tourist trade - but a great way to keep it all alive together." >>
The thing I love about Varanasi is that it’s like being in a full-time entertainment wonderland - there is always something weird and wonderful unfolding on the streets as you walk around - either some outlandish Saddhu (Hindu holy man) wearing or doing things from swinging bells to chanting mantras or simply just looking exceptionally cool! - or other eccentrics performing outlandish Hindu rituals (and I mean no disrespect - they are only outlandish to the Western eye) - or the play of cows and monkeys and dogs and humans on the crowded streets. There are many religious festivals (as there are all over India - but special in this place); often accompanied by free Indian Classical Concerts held late at night along the ghats (ghats are the temples and steps bordering the river).
To wake at 6am and wander down to the waters edge - this is the only place along the long stretch of the Ganges facing East - to witness the sun rise amidst Hindus performing morning prayers and ritual washing - is inspiring (meaning that it also inspires meditation and reflection on one’s own existence and meaning like no other place I
On the roof of my guesthouse
Nice place to hang at the end of the day. Overlooking the Ganga have known).
But it’s the spiritual atmosphere above all else that brings the place alive - the fact that there is a continual stream of pilgrims coming to Varanasi to be blessed - to be married - to be washed in the sacred waters of the Ganges (Mother Ganga) - or (being deceased) to be burnt and have their ashes spread on the river.
I have met many ‘tourists’ and other Westerners in India who don’t share my love of Varanasi - invariably they have been there just for a day or so (the old “I DID a place“ syndrome); and have not gotten past the squalor, beggars, the state of the river (it is certainly very polluted), and the general mayhem of the place.
What they have perhaps missed is the quietness, the absolute charm of the locals (while the place does appear to be run by the worst of Indian corruption at the governmental level, the locals are, in my experience, honest and friendly when engaged with), the humor of the contradictions that are put in one’s way at every turn, the great local places to eat, and the many many small neighbourhoods to be
discovered along the old narrow stone streets that abound in this ancient city. I would challenge anyone to visit every nook and cranny of Varanasi anywhere within a one year time frame.
And so when people ask me “so what would be the best place to visit as an absolute must” - my answer is usually “wrong question because it sounds like you have limited time and India needs time” … BUT….. “if nowhere else - then at least Varanasi - but let it absorb you!”.
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Marguerite
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Vabulous Varanasi
Oh yeah! I luved Varanasi too Paul and so did Jordan. Bathed in your account of Varanasi. I'll email you a couple of 'happy snaps' of our trip there. Hugs Marguerite