Delhi is one of the most ancient continually inhabited cities on earth. It’s inhabitant have been evacuated, relocated, slaughtered and it’s urban landscape burned to the ground several times in history, with recent examples including the 1857 Indian mutiny against British rule, the Partition massacres of 1947, and the riots following the assassination of Indira Gandhi in 1984. Many of its ancient artisans have fled to Pakistan, while in reverse Central Asian and Muslim culture have had a strong impact on the city’s culture and appearance for centuries. For those interested in learning more about Delhi’s fascinating history and culture, I would strongly recommend William Dalrymple’s “City of Djinns" (1993). My first visit to Delhi, in 2004, was not a good one. Temperatures soared to 45 degrees plus in a heat wave that killed hundreds, I
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