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Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Kargil Town September 8th 2023

Hier kommt endlich unser erster Blogeintrag. Zur Info: für weitere Fotos ganz nach unten scrollen. 2.9. Endlich geht es los. Seit Jahren, Monaten, Wochen, Tagen bereiten wir uns auf diese Reise vor - organisatorisch, mental, materiell. Jetzt ist es real, vollbepackt zum Bahnhof marschierend realisieren wir es erst so richtig. Die Reise verläuft planmässig und ohne nennenswerte Begebenheiten. Am Flughafen in Delhi müssen wir zwar mehrere ATMs abklappern, bis einer endlich doch noch Geld ausspuckt, aber vor dem Gate erwartet uns wie erhofft ein Taxifahrer mit Schild und bringt uns zum Hotel in der Aerocity. Es ist bereits weit nach Mitternacht als wir dort ankommen, immer noch 32°C mit hoher Luftfeuchtigkeit. Da werden wir uns wohl dran gewöhnen müssen. 3.9. Beim Checkout werden wir zu einer Rezension auf booking genötigt, dann will man uns unbedingt ein ... read more
Dschungel mitten in Delhi
Hauz Khas
‌Strassenszene in Delhi

Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Ladakh » Hemis August 5th 2023

It was with a degree of trepidation that I departed the fabulous Indus River Camp, after a hearty breakfast, to go on a 4-5 day trek along the Markha Valley. I had done quite a bit of research and it appeared that it was possible to do the trek staying at homestays dotted along the route, with food provided as part of the package. Most of the shorter Markha Valley treks seemed to start at Chilling, about 1hr 15mins from the camp, but I decided to start the trek at Zingchen which was a bit closer to Leh (in distance but not necessarily time), taking in an extra 4900m pass to get to the Markha Valley. The taxi soon turned off the main road into narrow, twisting, lumpy bumpy lanes steadily climbing towards the snow capped ... read more
Top of 4800m pass
Route to the homestay
Delux accommodation!

Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Ladakh » Leh August 1st 2023

Today was always going to be a big travelling day. I had to get from the furthest outpost of Ladakh back to Leh, where I had arranged to pick up a mountain bike and then another hour or so in a vehicle with bike and baggage to Sakti where there was a Buddhist festival I planned to attend the following day. The second leg was organised. The first leg was not as there was no taxi stand in Turtuk, and I really didn’t fancy travelling by the local bus (not just because it left at 6am). I had brekkie and waved goodbye to my hosts at about 7.30am, and wandered down to the parking spot where a number of chartered taxis were parked. There were about five vehicles and not a soul in sight. I went ... read more
En route to Leh
A typical roadside ditto
Me and my Sakti homestay hostess

Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Ladakh » Leh July 31st 2023

In case anyone is interested in venturing beyond the usual cycling stomping grounds, Ladakh in Northwest India is a fascinating place for a bit of cycle exploring. The majority of my trip has been for trekking and cultural, but I thought I would share my experiences of cycling. The first, and arguably the most important, point to note is that if you fly into Leh, after a brief stop over in Delhi, then you are probably going from sea level to 3500m in less than 24hrs. Your body is not designed for this so you have to give it time to adjust to the altitude, so for the first two days do take it pretty easy. Having said that I did rent a perfectly decent mountain bike (circa £10 per days from Himalayan Bikers) for the ... read more
Stok Buddha
Stok Palace
Starting point for a 2km vertical descent

Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Ladakh July 27th 2023

After a sweltering day in Delhi, where I dragged myself around a few of the sights before chilling out by the hotel pool, I took an early flight to Leh, Ladakh. Ladakh is sandwiched between Pakistan and China on the Tibetan plateau and it encompasses part of the Karakoram range, part of the Himalayas, and a few lesser known ranges - breathtaking in multiple senses of the word. As Leh is at 3500m it’s essential to spend the first couple of days taking it pretty easy so I had booked into a nice midrange hotel (Gomang Boutique hotel - highly recommended!) slightly away from central Leh, so I could do a bit of gentle meandering around the town. The staff couldn’t have been more welcoming - I arrived at about 7.45am, and after checking in was ... read more
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Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Srinagar April 7th 2023

I had heard how beautiful Kashmir was and had always wanted to visit it. So, when my first leg of photography trip for the Holi Festival was completed, I decided to extend my trip and headed to Kashmir, along with my two friends. The flight from Delhi to Srinagar took only 1.5 hours, much shorter compared to 3 hours of being in the airport prior to departure due to lengthy security check. Once we landed at Srinagar airport, we were greeted by our driver, Museeb, who suggested that we drove right away to Pahalgam. It was an easy and comfortable drive as the road condition turned out better than what I had expected. In the contrast to the week earlier where I saw lots of women wearing colorful clothing everywhere, I hardly saw any women on ... read more
Military men on duty
The colourful minibus
Human pulled sledge

Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Ladakh » Leh September 3rd 2021

Leh - Ladakh: 23/8/21 to 29/8/21 There are three mis-matched regions of “Jammu & Kashmir” state: (1) Hindu dominated ‘Jammu’ region, (2) Buddhist ‘Ladakh’ and (3) predominantly muslim - ‘Kashmir’. This is not a political commentary on why and how they came together, but now some sense is being brought in by separating ‘Ladakh’ as a Union Territory with Leh as its capital. Leh-Ladakh has many strange ‘world-records’ to its credit. It is in fact a (world’s highest) desert (rain-shadow area) in the Himalayas. Technically this region opened for tourists sometime in the 1970s but has developed as a major destination in the last two decades only. I will arbitrarily divide Himalayas in to six regions (for tourism purpose only) - (1) Snow clad mountains of Kashmir, (2) Deserted mountains of Ladakh and Kargil, (3) Green ... read more
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Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Ladakh » Hemis September 3rd 2021

Day-3: 25-08-2021 - Leh Palace, Hemis, Thicksey, Rancho, Shey: Leh Palace. A lot of renovation has been carried out to make it possible for tourists to visit. There are 9 levels (stories). Tourists are allowed up to 5. Palace conveys the simplicity (or lack of wealth) of erstwhile rulers. Moving on the Leh-Manali road we went up to Hemis monastery first (last point of our itinerary for the day). From Hemis, the road bifurcates to go to Pangong. Those who go to Pangong, Hemis side can be covered on the way, however, you need 3-4 hours to visit all these spots. Hemis monastery has students of Buddhism. We also saw a banner announcing ‘convocation’. There is a very good museum on Buddhism. It has many idols of Buddha collected from different parts of the word, belonging ... read more
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Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Ladakh » Khardung La September 3rd 2021

Day-6: 28-08-2021 - Nubra-Hunder to Leh: The last day of the Ladakh tour included a return journey from Hunder to Leh. Crowded it was, as we had seen while passing through two days back, but the people were simply going mad. There was a real traffic jam at 18000+ ft! Vehicles were parked at will wherever there was some space (see video). We stopped a few feet after crossing the peak and did enjoy the snowfall for a while. It was our first experience of snow. Entertaining it was, but it raises serious issues about sustainability of the environment if such behaviour is allowed to continue. If we can restrict the time a vehicle remains inside the airport pick-up/drop-off zone, why not at such crucial and delicate points? On either side of Khardung La there are ... read more
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Asia » India » Jammu & Kashmir » Ladakh » Alchi September 3rd 2021

Day-2: 24-08-2021 - Sham Valley Sham valley tour includes Gurudwara Pathhar Sahib, Magnetic hill, Confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers, Alchi monastery and Lamayuru monastery. These are on Leh-Srinagar highway. We had not included Lamayuru because of the distance and travel time. Leh to Alchi is ~70 km one-way and Lamayuru is 125 km one-way. Our driver squeezed in local sightseeing on Day-2. It became more tiring but in hind-sight, we would have missed local sightseeing altogether as there was a strike in Leh on our Day-6. We started with Shanti Stupa. One should visit in the morning as evenings become very windy up there. You can see the whole of Leh from here. Our next stop was at the “Hall of Fame” - a war museum by the Indian Army. . The museum is very ... read more
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