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Published: September 2nd 2013
It’s impossible not to think of this summer without referencing the weather. Though it’s barely September, I’m already thinking about it in the past tense and hoping it’s behind us. I’m not sure that I can think up the proper adjectives to do it justice. Unbearable? Sweltering? Roasting? Broiling? Oppressive?
When I look back at my June photos I was still wearing jeans, even boots in the cool, damp, early summer rain. In July things suddenly changed to full-on summer; the fickle spring weather replaced by two months of broiling sun. I thought perhaps I was being over-sensitive. I was, after all, accustomed to the temperate Pacific Northwest climate and recently, the even temperatures of the Guatemalan highlands. Apparently, however, many others felt the same. While the subtropical summer of Shanghai is famously unpleasant, this year easily trumped its predecessors.
A headline in the English language China Daily newspaper read “Mercury hits 40.6 degrees Celsius on the hottest day since 1873”. The next week we broke 42 degrees Celsius, roughly 107 degrees Fahrenheit. The real kicker was the heat index, meaning the “real” temperature that calculated Shanghai’s tremendous humidity levels. There were several days where we easily reached 120
Fahrenheit. An intrepid Shanghai news station proved their point by frying a slab of pork on the sidewalk in People’s Square. It cooked 80%!t(MISSING)hrough in a matter of minutes. I feel like a warrior who came out of the battle alive, shaking my head and muttering “I can’t believe I survived…” Sure, it’s dramatic, but there were several days that, after hauling myself up five flights of concrete stairs, I collapsed in the shower and spent the remainder of the day in front of my air conditioner, begging for mercy.
I will proudly report that, in spite of my whining, the egregious summer weather did not keep us from exploring the city. Some of the highlights…
In early June, when the weather was still misty and cool, C and I visited the fantastic
Power Station of Art . As its name suggests, it is a converted utility plant now housing a creative art space. Apparently, Gerard Butler and other celebrities had visited the site early in the year for the Hugo Boss fashion show early in the year (we saw the pictures much later and of course were over-excited with the “but we were just there!” syndrome).
We visited in order to see Andy Warhol’s exhibit, the first of its kind in China. Of course, the artist himself had long been fascinated with the country. Although his famous Mao Zedong series was absent from the display, the gallery did include photos from his famous 1982 tour. Shortly before visiting the museum, I read an article in one of Shanghai’s expat magazines regarding Warhol’s infamous visit. The artist was quoted as fondly complimenting the plain blue Mao suits and pondering how beautiful and harmonious the world would be if everyone similarly disregarded fashion and its ensuing individuality. At the same time, he lamented the absence of McDonald’s and the familiarity of western culture. I’m not sure what to make of these contradictions, but Andy can rest assured: he would have no trouble quite literally running into a McDonald’s now.
All this aside, the museum is a fantastic experience. The space is not yet being used to its potential, though it does house rotating exhibits and events. Next up is Angelique Shidi. The roof, along with its sweeping views, odd sculptures, and café is reason enough to make the trip. The metro stop is South Xizang Rd.
Also before the heat became too extreme we took one of the big, red
City Sightseeing tour buses around. It’s well worth it for a bit of low-key fun. The bus (its jerky driving reminiscent of Disney’s Indiana Jones ride) whisks around between People’s Park, Nanjing Road, the Bund, Yu Garden, and Xintiandi. The corners are sharp, and at times from the second floor deck the laundry seems close enough to touch. Screeching to a halt to avoid pedestrians and (discreetly) sipping some beer adds to the thrill. How can you go wrong for 30 RMB?
Early in July I headed to the
Shanghai Ocean Aquarium in Pudong with one of my coworkers and her young son. The 160 RMB entry price was prohibitive and there was a fair amount of expected tackiness (plastic penguins, anyone?) However, there were also some highlights, including the primordial looking carp, psychedelic jellyfish, and much-publicize tunnel.
C and I went back to
Lujiazui later to gape at the surreal skyscrapers, walk along the river, and eat tasty Thai food along the Huangpu.
It wasn’t the only time we braved outdoor dining. We stubbornly sweltered outside at the
cool jellies
Shanghai AquariumShanghai Brewery while everyone else was inside enjoying an icy blast of AC. We also went in search of Shanghai’s very own “Bund Beach", a sticky sandbox along the sludgy river with palm trees painted on the concrete wall outside. The RMB 50 entrance fee is perhaps not a bad idea if you have small children and/or favor beach volleyball. We opted to forego and instead spent the afternoon dripping sweat and scarfing curry at the
“Cool Docks” a motley courtyard of restaurants across the street. We did eventually find a quitter corner along the river: a Mexican restaurant just passed the graffiti-splashed walls that actually served micheladas.
A few other noteworthy summer ventures were Shanghai’s most excellent
Propaganda Art Museum and
Mr. X Mystery House . The former is located in the basement of an apartment building on HuaShan Rd. in the French Concession. Admission is 20 RMB and there is an amazing selection of revolutionary-style posters ranging from 1949 to the 1980’s. It is fascinating to see how the depictions have changed over the years, both stylistically and ideologically. There are also a few photos and “big character posters”. These slogans, rendered
on thin paper and often edited by several authors, were prevalent during the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s-1970s. Their intention was to criticize ideas and often people. The posters themselves were flimsy and not meant to last, though the scars of this time period will never fully heal.
On a lighter note, the Mr. X Mystery house was pure fun. A sort of living puzzle, you and a group of friends are locked in a room and given one hour to piece together clues. Anything in the room can be used to unravel your escape and often unlocks subsequent passages and doorways. We didn’t quite solve the riddle, but there are several rooms to choose from, so I’d like to give it another try.
We also braved an early August trip to
Nanjing (about 2 hours away by train) and stayed at a fun hostel called “Time”, located down winding alleys in a Republican-era mansion. We had some fantastic Indian food and wandered around on the first night, past the reconstructed Presidential Palace. On the second day we headed to the fantastic
Jiming Temple ; its yellow buildings and pagoda stacked on a lush hillside.
There were plenty of smiling, incense-waving worshipers and lovely lotus blossoms as we mad the climb. At the top of the temple is an entrance point for the old
Nanjing City Wall , perhaps the most famous in all of China.
Though it was Saturday, there was almost no one else there (a rarity in China) and we enjoyed strolling peacefully along the old ramparts. Tufts of grass stuck out between the stones, dragonflies fluttered overhead, and Xuanwu Lake shimmered on one side. According to the Lonely Planet Guidebooks, the worn characters on each brick symbolize the name of its creator. Therefore, if one was found to be faulty, the officials knew who to blame. We came off the wall to find the far end of Xuanwu Lake; literally a bed of Lotus blossoms rippling in the wind.
We took the bus up famous
Purple Mountain heading for the Ming Tombs. We apparently got off at the wrong place, because instead of finding a famous historical site we were standing at the edge of a small lake. Not feeling like anything too touristy, we rented a motorboat to put around in, drinking beer, and gazing
sunny afternoon
from one of my favorite bars at the old wall. Side note: I would never condone drinking and boating, of course, BUT the old contraption wouldn't go over one mile an hour – you could literally swim faster – and we were the only ones on the lake. Afterwards, we visited the botanical garden next door and peddled around on a two person bicycle.
The next day we returned to the hill, walking past the Sun Yatsen Mausoleum entrance and LingguTemple. Perhaps due to the extreme heat, I didn't have the fortitude to brave the flag-following groups of tourists to the major sites. Instead, we stuck to the leafy back trails and relished this small scrap of nature.
We didn’t make it to the Nanjing Memorial. I’ve heard that it’s fantastic and I have it on my list for next time. It goes without saying that the city has endured some horrific events. I didn’t feel ready to visit on this trip, but it’s worth pointing out. In many ways, Nanjing has transcended its tragic past, but the events of 1937-38 will always be part of its consciousness.
On a positive note, the sizzling summer weather has made it much easier to be
Graffiti
Near the Cool Docks, South Bund at work. I’m actually thankful to spend my days indoors, basking in the air conditioning. The July and August summer sessions have been our busiest, with many public school students (or their parents!) opting for extra English study during their summer holiday. In addition to a full class schedule, we've had fun organizing activities, which have included a trip to the
Shanghai Museum and a session of painting on the school grounds.
This weekend something magical happened. The heat cooled significantly. September first brought an almost cool breeze. For the first time, I ventured out in midday without becoming a dripping mess within five minutes. Xujiahui Park was full of families and amorous couples; old men playing mahjong, kids catching tadpoles, women strolling arm and arm. The sky was so blue. It felt like a different city. Perhaps it’s premature, but with this change in temperature I feel like a new era is being ushered in. Youths are back in school, classes are smaller, duties are being reassigned at work, and everything feels more relaxed after the hustle of the summer months. We have some holidays coming up and soon the leaves will begin to change. I
Saurumon's Tower?
Nope, it's the Marriot in People's Square can’t wait.
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