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July 15th 2013
Published: July 15th 2013
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Garbage collectors on the canalGarbage collectors on the canalGarbage collectors on the canal

Picking up trash and plastic bottles after the storm. Suzhou
Rainy days in Suzhou...

I had been looking forward to our Suzhou trip for a number of weeks and checked the weather frequently. Therefore, I was quite surprised to find that the forecast had changed dramatically in the hours before our departure; moving from a mere 20%!c(MISSING)hance of showers to a torrential 100%!<(MISSING)br>
Still, we’d booked our train ticket in advance and decided to go make the best of it. The ride to Suzhou was my first experience on one of China’s newer trains. During past trips we had bumped around on the older variety, which, though efficient, consisted of a mad dash for hard plastic seats and the occasional cockroach sitting. This new train was a marvel: sleek, fast, and clean. The broad aisles and bullet-shaped nose made it look like an airplane without wings. At 250 km/hr, it whisked us to Suzhou in 30 minutes flat.

It was indeed raining in Suzhou…a thundering, biblical downpour. Sheets of water ran off the roves and the old cobblestone streets were mired in much. We didn’t let it dampen our good weekend mood and there was an unexpected perk of the bad weather – the crowds at many
Lovely coupleLovely coupleLovely couple

Having their wedding photos taken. I loved their clothes! Suzhou
of the areas attractions were visibly reduced and the streets of the old town nearly empty. It was quite romantic, especially as we watched the deluge from our hotel, the Pinjiang Lodge.

By Saturday, the rain had mostly abated and we set off to see some of the city's famous gardens. We walked along the canal in a light mist, about 25 minutes from P street. We got lost several times and had to stop and ask for directions. We finally arrived just after the garden open and were pleasantly surprised to find it mostly empty due to the inclement weather. Though small, every inch of space was used thoughtfully. Rocks were placed at just the right angle, maples planted carefully, circular doors framing the bamboo just so. The delicate angles, simple lines, and white walls mirrored the negative space often found in Chinese landscape painting.

This particular garden was called “Garden of the Master of the Nets” in English, ( 网师园 or Wǎngshī Yuán in Chinese). It had been built in the early 12th century during the Song Dynasty as a haven for an official who was passionate about fishing. My favorite part was sitting in a corner of the covered wakway behind the giftshop, drinking rose tea and watching the rain dampen the leaves of the courtyard bonsais.

Another massive highlight of the day was the Yang Yang restaurant. Recommended by one of the street vendors, its located just down the street from the alleyway entrance to Master of the Nets Garden. The address is 420 Shiquan St. In case you miss it, there are several Lonely Planet stickers posted on the exterior. If it did indeed make it into the famous guidebook it deserves the recommendation...definitely some of the best food I've had in China, hands down.

After lunch we visited another garden: the Couple's Retreat Garden (Ŏu Yuán, 耦园), probably my favorite of all of them. Located down a quiet canal off of Pinjiang Street, it was exceptionally quiet and romantic. Sunday was more sightseeing, a requisite boat ride (75 RMB, arranged through our hotel) down the canal to the Humble Administrator's Garden. Our boat was paddled by a woman and her husband who took turns at the oar while the other hopped off at various points to run errands and visit with friends. The wife belted out some traditional songs (for
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Zhujiajiao
a tip of course, I was happy to oblige) and also provided some commentary about their origins. I couldn't understand her accent much at all, but it was enjoyable.

The garden (Zhuōzhèng Yuán, 拙政园) is a bit pricey to enter at RMB 70/person, but since it is rumored to be one of the most beautiful gardens in China we felt obligated. It was definitely stunning, with a network of ponds and numerous pavilions I felt like the beauty was somewhat diminished by the crowds; waves of flag following tour groups that took away from the tranquility. For me, the best parts were the torpedo shaped koi – roughly the size of adult salmon – who glided between the lily pads and the astounding collection of bonsai trees. There were hundreds, every size and variety imaginable, expertly trimmed and displayed.

In spite of the slightly miserable weather, I wasn't remotely disappointed by our visit. In fact, Suzhou far exceeded my expectations. The best part wasn't the gardens, the historic buildings, or the delicious food, but rather the slice of ancient China imagery. It's a scene straight out of Hollywood: old men sleeping in doorways, women weaving baskets from bamboo strips, couples strolling through narrow alleys with bags of vegetables. For an outsider it's romantic and offers an idyllic and simplistic view of the world. Juxtaposed alongside China's complexity - its politics, modernity, and controversy – these snapshots from another era are comforting. Some things never change...many do.

Sun in Zhujiajiao...

This past weekend we headed to Zhujiajiao, another water city near Shanghai. Zhujiajiao is similar to Suzhou in that it is an old water town built around a network of canals with many preserved Ming and Qing buildings. Unlike the former, which is a decent sized city, Zhujiajiao is incredibly compact. Accessible by bus from Shanghai the town is a favorite of domestic tourists who roll in on buses to eat seafood, visit a few of the sights, and get hauled up and down the canals in creaky, old-fashioned boats.

Someone told me that this is where Tom Cruise had filmed scenes for Mission Impossible 3 and had even dined in one of the local restaurants. Thankfully, the weather was on our side this time with clear blue skies and sun. The temperature has officially become hot and humid, quite a change from a month ago when I was still wearing jeans.

For anyone wishing to visit, Zhujiajiao (朱家角) is an easy day or weekend trip from the city. You can catch the bus (Hùzhū Gāosù Kuàixiàn, 沪朱高速快线) from the Pu’an Bus Station in People’s Park. From Exit 1 of the metro station follow Xizang Rd. and cross under the elevated Yan’an Parkway. Go right and look for Pu’an Rd. It’s the same street that the very obvious, double-decker Shanghai Sightseeing tour buses stop. The bus to Zhujiajiao is pink. Make sure that it contains the character 快, indicating the fast line. We accidentally took a different bus on the way home and got quite the scenic tour of Shanghai’s outlying industrial areas.

From the bus station you can negotiate a bicycle rickshaw to the old town for around 10 RMB per person. It might be possible to walk if you’re feeling especially zealous, but it’s a fair distance…especially in the July heat.

There are a few accommodation options in Zhujiajiao. The first night we stayed in the Cao Bang Lodge, a rickety old building with a nice bar, welcoming staff, and a very friendly cat. It had a lot of character and
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Zhujiajiao
seemed well-run. My only real complaint was that on Saturday morning, after going out for a morning walk, I got locked out for nearly an hour. The woman who let me out had padlocked the door and no one responded to my knocking or pleas to get back in… perhaps something to keep in mind for guests who want to stay up late or go out early.

The second place was called Uma’s Hostel, which was recommended by several guidebooks. It is set back from the main street near the Kezhi Garden and is very unassuming, but with a lot of character. There is a quiet courtyard to sit in and several dorm beds available in addition to private rooms. The woman running the place was very kind and helpful.

Other than that, there’s not a lot to say. We had a wonderful, relaxing time. I would highly recommend spending a night or two, simply because the majority of the crowds disperse and evenings and mornings are downright peaceful. There isn’t much to do, which can be a blessing after the ridiculous amount of options present in the city. You can shop for trinkets or traditional snacks (sesame crackers, dried green beans, a type of peanut brittle, and some very questionable looking pig parts). Most of the restaurants have the same menu consisting of steamed fish, river shrimp, snails, noodles, and an assortment of veggies.

There are plenty of cafes to sip tea, coffee, or something stronger. Our favorite bar was called “Zher”, located on …St. across the Yangquan Bridge from Uma’s hostel. It had a really funky vibe, some outdoor tables, a good variety of beet, and hukkas. The café next door also had good coffee, alcoholic drinks, and tasty Chinese dishes.

The boat rides are fixed at RMB 125 for the “long” tour between several major attractions. The boatman told us that the tour was only about 25 minutes, so we decided to skip it. It was fun to watch them on Saturday afternoon, so numerous that it looked like a game of bumper cars at a Chinese-themed Disneyland. Everyone was in high weekend spirits, however, and didn’t seem to mind the jostling.

It was a great weekend away and of course hard to the city for a new workweek. However, it is comforting to know that both water towns are just a short train/bus ride away.


Additional photos below
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Red LanternsRed Lanterns
Red Lanterns

Zhujiajiao
Suzy the dogSuzy the dog
Suzy the dog

A street fixture in Zhujiajiao, the sign asks for money for her eye medication.
River fishRiver fish
River fish

Zhujiajiao
Pinjiang LodgePinjiang Lodge
Pinjiang Lodge

in the heavy rain
Our awesome roomOur awesome room
Our awesome room

Uma Hostel, Zhujiajiao
Passing the afternoonPassing the afternoon
Passing the afternoon

With a hukka at "Zher"


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