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Published: June 29th 2006
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In the gardens of Mr. Mei
A return visit to the gardens of the Chinese Opera actor Mr. Mei will become a regular highlight, though the wet shirt will tell you at what sacrifice. The customs from country to country are never quite the same, but in China there are additional surprises to ponder. To a new resident and "virgin-observer" from the West, the medium sized city of Taizhou, Jiangsu Province, offers challenges not known to a three-week tourist, who is securely insulated from true-daily-life of China's 1.4 billion. Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong are no more China than New York, Los Angeles, and Miami are America. To understand America is to look beyond the city-sprawl, to imagine China is to visit beyond its mega-cities.
Opportunities to experience these less explored areas of China, such as the city of Taizhou, are emerging for teachers from foreign countries (and especially from English speaking nations), for whom a semester long stay, or even a year long contract with a school in China, could become a gratifying learning-experience; though one must must bring an open mind and leave all pre-conceptions at home.
Every day for the past four weeks has been filled with amazement at the resiliency of this city's inhabitants. Think of it, at 5 million, Taizhou is considered rather neglegable as far as cities around China are concerned, and I haven't seen a tourist-bus in
art class
The empty class-room of aspiring artists in the gardens of Mr. Mei offered these beautiful scetches and sheets of Chinese calligraphy. this city yet. Few inside Jiangsu Province and even fewer in the other provinces will have ever heard of Taizhou. Fact is, that I have not been able to locate "any" picture-postcards in even the largest book-store of Taizhou, that might honor and portray some of the sights for any potential visitor.
The photos I have been able to share, are probably the first to have expounded Taizhou's virtues outside its city limits. Having shared a few of Taizhou's vistas, let me describe some impressions and contradictions that are Taizhou:
While walking the miles and miles of one and two floor commercial streets, a blond-haired person would of course be the "main act", a Westener with brown and darker hair is seen as a "star", and I, with few hair, still am a "starlette" :-) .
The daily life of Taizhou is in the streets. There is no street that does not buss with every sound of active city life.
One is surrounded by car horns, offering every kind of pitch, tone, loudness, and length, yet not a person pays attention to the suggested urgency of these multitudes of horn-blasts, coming from every kind of
4 new friends
It is common to be approached by younger Chinese, who wish to practice a little English and want their picture taken together. exotic vehicle. Where before I would take confused notice with each frequent horn-explosion, they no longer suggest impending danger, only the mutual understanding and comprehension, that someone is about to invade part and share a piece of ones walking-space.
Having crossed the street safely, the other adventures begin to unfold. Unless it is a prominent restaurant, which can occupy several levels, each square, concrete space offers something "different", and wares are never the same. The success of all these little places of commerce is hopefully enhanced, as each offers something, if only a little different and unique.
May it be brooms, wrapping paper, ciggarettes and liquor, a little beauty parlor, a car repair shop, a space selling piping, a welder, a moped shop, something cold to drink, the specialist with nuts and bolts and nails, glass repair, school supplies, small walk-in clinics, fire-works, dentists, plastics, paint, eyeglasses, shoe and zipper repair, whatever the need is available in its "basic" form, a selection not so common only a few years ago. Entrepreneur-ship is thriving in every conceivable space in the city of Taizhou.
"Customer-Loyalty" to specific name-items is still limited by the small variety of name-brands, though some
are obvious by their international packaging and colors. A small bottle of peach juice or orange juice or water will cost about 3 Yuan (30 cents) cold, while the warm bottle will be a little cheaper. Six fresh eggs will be about 2 Yuan, and vegetables and fruit can be negotiated at pittens by "our standards".
It must be stressed, that for the average Chinese, each Yuan is respected as if a Dollar for one of us. Life for him/her becomes a survival, no different from the average American struggling with the Dollar in the American economy. ( As a retiree and living in China, spending power has been enhanced by the Dollar vs. Yuan (1-8) exchange rate. The foreign teacher's salary is substancial for Chinese standards.)
Food is available everywhere, cooked to order on every conceivable cart, space in the wall, and stand, or abundant in the exotic fresh food markets. Prepared cuisine is at its best in one of the multitude of restaurants with private little banquet rooms on various levels and importance, and the least desirable (for me!), when harvested or caught directly from the murky river by the multitude of citizen-anglers, hoping for a
washing the eggs
Cleaning the duck-eggs in the river, to ready for the market. I don't believe that these are the "dirty-eggs"! "catch of the day" or "mud-dig of the day" to supplement their meal.
The vegetables and fruits are selections of "the season", and pre-caution dictactes, that much is boiled. Many of the dishes are prepared by steam and water, and I'm still searching for my favorites: "fried"-rice, "stirr-fried" chicken/pork vegetables, "fried" spring-rolls, and "fried" dumplings. Soon my Chinese picture menu from Miami will help point-out my suggestions in hopes of success.
A KFC has established one franchise in the city, but even in Miami, KFC was never an option.
Every purchase involves a discussion of cost, and learning to bargain is an essential quality for every respectable Chinese, a quality I do not possess. Lucky I have Arthur, Vivian, and Sue, who look out for my interests, and who consistenly surprise me with their calm and effective negotiation-skills.
To surround a Westener and view and touch the content of his shopping basket makes for quality entertainment. To notice which small restaurant a "gringo" might be visiting is "cause for joy", as the visit from a foreign face enhances the status of the establishment, large or small.
The concept of "first come - first served" is
very-much a foreign custom in my new city. Any person needing help at a counter will eventually find his way and be recognized, but those more impatient, bold, and insulent are the more successful, regardless of sequence of arrival.
We in Miami treasure minimal privacy as we purchase goods and ask for services, and we honor a descreet distance from the person, who was "truly" ahead. Here your trans-actions are communal interest, and no one is shy to share opinions or comment. The concept of the "survival of the fittest" takes on a new meaning when seeking to close transactions. Animated observations will of course become lively-table-conversation: "Oh my, these "loco" foreigners are certainly a push-over, when it comes to waiting in line."!! Few might realize, I'm just as much an observer as they are. Their hurry, josling, and impatience also becomes my dose of daily entertainment.
My friend Sue noted today, that unlike many other developing countries, it is unlikely here, to be approached by someone for a hand-out or any solicitation. There is a respect for ones personal efforts in making the day's living, no matter how difficult, and success is just around the next corner....
art along the river
Carved from marble blocks, an additional drum-stool is provided to encourage thought.
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Sandra Cordova
non-member comment
KFC!? Ewww.