We passed out of Miao territory and into Dong territory, eventually emerging back on the tourist trail at Zhaoxing. Dong woman wear a slightly understated version of the Miao traditional dress, the hemp with indigo dye is still used, but with less decoration. Here in Zhaoxing, the village resounded with hammering, not only were many new wooden buildings springing up amongst the age old ones, but hemp for traditional clothing was being beaten until it developed a sheen. Away from the picturesque drum towers and bridges of Zhaoxing were narrow back alleys. In one I discovered a man blow torching rats in preparation for cooking them! The process of blow torching them removes their hairs. He proudly held up one for me to examine. A final day of exquisite riding led us back to the main
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