Cycling through the city, I tried out different intonations of "Soo-sih-day" as I sung out my hellos on the fly. A moto driver replied "hello lady" and a monk gave me a subtly saucy smile. I reasoned my Khmer pronunciation must be improving. Nicola, my partner in crime since Saigon, pedals up alongside. "Do you think we should call in at your boyfriend's for a cup of ice cream on the way home?" I readily agree to the plan. We've been cycling around the city all day, scheming over our morning tea and coffee, sussing out the NGOs in town, and doing our best to network our way into the wild world of Phnom Penh. In the oppressive afternoon heat, we're ready for a leisurely rest at the Okay Guesthouse and a naperoo. Nicola has been
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