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Published: September 22nd 2014
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I had planned a brief stay in one of Cambodia's five star resorts on the coast, thinking I might need a bit of R&R after Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
It seemed a bad omen when I boarded the bus in Phnom Penh and realised that my seat was home to my luggage as well as my butt. The bus itself was packed, as people headed home for the Pchum Ben festivities. Pchum Ben is a fifteen day religious festival which culminates in a national celebration, and this year it's 22-24 September. Cambodians return to their province for the holidays to pay their respects to seven generations of ancestors, visiting temples, and making food offerings. There I was squished into the seat my legs all at odd angles, trying not to impinge too much on the poor fellow next to me, for four hours. Except four hours turned into nearly six..... and the aircon crapped out for the last hour.
I arrived at the resort feeling rather crabby. What I have learned is that I am not a resort person. I can imagine you all rolling your eyes, asking if that's the sound of the world's tiniest violin. Yes
poor me. I'm stuck in a five star Cambodian resort on the edge of a beautiful ocean and I honestly don't care for it.
Where I am staying is massive, with around 400 rooms. It's so big in fact that they offered me a buggy to get to the other restaurant where I had made a dinner reservation. I decided to walk, after all I hadn't done a whole lot else that day. It was a beautiful walk along the beach front. That was the best part of it, as the food was average and the staff in the restaurants (there are four at last count) are utterly useless. They are very friendly but I'm not entirely sure they know what they are supposed to do.
It's also big enough that each time my room key doesn't work I have to stomp back down to the reception to get it recut, the sweat tricking down my back, the round trip takes at least five minutes, which also makes me very grumpy. The keys stop working if you put them next to your phone or in extreme heat. Yes, HEAT. Given the temperatures here and that most people spend
their time in the sun at the beach or at one of the pools, they must be recutting keys all day.
I decided to explore the local town of Sihanoukville, which doesn't seem to have a lot going for it. If I thought that Phnom Penh was dirty, chaotic and utterly charming, this place is just plain old dirty. I didn't have time for a trip to the nearby islands, but it's also known for the local beaches. There are around half a dozen within easy reach, the most popular being Ochheuteal Beach, so I headed over to take a look.
Together with the neighbouring beach, Serendipity, it stretches around 5km long and I could imagine that it would have been stunning, if it weren't jam-packed with people, loungers, umbrellas, hawkers, stalls and the beach wasn't buzzing with jet-skis. It was overcrowded, dirty and noisy. The road behind the beach was lined with travel tour shops, cafes, restaurants, bars and tattoo parlours, each proclaiming "professional" and "western hygienic standard". It made me feel depressed. All I could imagine was drunk 19 year olds going home with regrettable indelible ink and false bravado.
I scuttled back to my
big, impersonal five star resort with its gorgeous, almost deserted private beach. I then discovered the other best thing at my hotel, which was the spa. If nothing else, I will leave here with supple well-oiled muscles and soft, moisturised skin.
Now blogging at
www.beautycharmadventureonline.com - check it out!
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taracloud
Tara Cloud
five-star disappointment
Good to know I don't need to give up my dorm rooms for a five-star resort. After all, when I make my coffee and oatmeal, I know I'll always find a spot to eat. Thank goodness for your private beach and spa and a little light in the five-star cloud.