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Published: October 14th 2014
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From Sihanoukville I had booked a transfer to Tatai, in Koh Kong province near the border with Thailand. Around four hours after leaving the overcrowded beach resort, I was happily ensconced on a peaceful river boat for the 20 minute journey up the river to my next destination. It turns out I was mistaken when I said in my last post that a five-star life wasn't for me. Being holed up in a five-star resort with almost no people around me, turns out to be exactly my cup of tea.
In theory I was sleeping in a tent for the next few days, however it was not like any camping trip I have previously experienced. Located in the thick of the jungle, surrounded by the Cardamon Mountains, the hotel consists of the 6 tents - the west wing, another 6 tents - the north wing. In the middle of the two wings is a small restaurant, an office, a library and a reception area. Everything is built quite literally on the river, on top of a floating platform which hugs a curve in the river. Calling them tents is underselling them. They were absolutely gorgeous, and my glamping experience came
complete with my own living area, king-size bed, and a separate bathroom. It really did put the two-man pup-tent of my memories to shame. In all honesty though, it wouldn't have mattered where I was sleeping, it was all completely stunning.
There’s as much or as little to do as you fancy. Luz, the manager, showed me around and took me to my tent. Each of the tents has its own private sun deck at the front, with a couple of loungers and umbrella, plus access to the river. Luz told me it was perfectly safe to swim in the river, however pointed out the life jackets if I wanted one. She mentioned almost as a throw-away comment, “You might see some snakes about, but don’t worry, the poisonous ones are on the top and usually they swim away from you”. Just have a guess how many times I got in that river.
As well as swimming, there were kayaks, and a tiny little island that you could paddle to in a minute or so. There are a handful of houses there and the villagers welcome visitors. It’s a short stroll around the island and an amazing peek
into rural Cambodian life. I was fascinated at the simple houses on stilts, which take open-plan living to a whole new extreme and I was amused to see that these ramshackle houses, which would barely stay standing in any decent storm, were kitted out with satellite TVs.
There were no such interferences across the river at my tent. No internet, no phone service, no TV other than to watch DVDs, and nearly no people. It was bliss.
I wasn’t a complete hermit however. The resort offers a range of day trips, so one day I went up the river to the Tatai waterfalls. It was a public holiday in Cambodia so it was busy with local families keeping cool and picnicking. Another day I went on a visit to a nearby fishing village. Although it is further up the river and located on an island seemingly in the middle of nowhere, modern life has definitely reached there. There are no roads and there can’t be more than 300 metres of pavement, however I saw a few pristine motorbikes parked outside houses. The curse of consumerism!
I think however my favourite little excursion was one night about 9.00pm
when the jungle was quiet, we floated along the black river in silence until we reached thousands of fireflies, lighting up the trees like fairy lights. What a lovely way to finish a holiday.
Now blogging at
www.beautycharmadventureonline.com - check it out!
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taracloud
Tara Cloud
Heaven on stilts!
What perfection, and what a contrast to your last resort! Your room was gorgeous, though as you said, anything that's peaceful and beyond the internet is perfect! The fireflies sounded magical--what a great place!