Whilst Siem Reap offers the opportunity to glimpse the glorious past of the ancient Khmer empire, Phnom Penh (PP) is the gateway to the much more recent evils of the Khmer Rouge regime, under the leadership of Pol Pot. Understanding what Cambodian people have had to face only 25 years ago, set all the emotions going - anger that is could be allowed to happen, the deepest of sympathy that the poeple had to endure such evils and anguish in the knowledge that despite the lessons we've learnt, genocide still continues to rear its ugly head, right now in Darfur, and the world does nothing! PP's main tourist attractions probably fall into the category of "dark tourism". From our guesthouse we procured the services of two bikers and rode pillion to the Killing Fields at "Choeung
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