It was a smooth hour’s sailing from Sfax to the port of Sidi Youssef on the island of Gharbi, one of the two main islands in the Kerkennah archipelago. We were a little concerned about getting onward transport around the islands but we needn’t have worried. A fleet of yellow minibuses greets the arrival of the ferry and despite there being only one other passenger on our bus, we were not asked to pay more than the going rate to be taken to Sidi Frej on Chergui Island. A long straight road runs across Gharbi where it is very flat and dry with only palm trees to break up the view. After 10 minutes or so you cross a causeway over to Chergui which is the largest of the islands of Kerkennah. Before long our driver
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