Blogs from Meknès-Tafilalet, Morocco, Africa

Time in the wild reminds me how much of what I ordinarily do is mere dithering, how much of what I own is mere encumbrance. The opposite of simplicity, as I understand it, is not complexity but clutter. - Scott Sander Leaving Fes, we head out, swapping train for the inevitable tourist mini-bus that always makes a show on these group tours. As mini-bus standards go...this one is pretty good, comfortable, air conditioned and spacious enough to allow each person a window seat, on both the sunny and shaded side of the bus. Off the railway and on to the roads - this is starting to bode well for my search for sand dunes... at least until we start heading across the Atlas mountains and hit the alpine ski resorts! Ski fields, pitched roof houses and ... read more

Pegamos onibus ateh Tinghir. Comecei a sentir dor num olho. Claro que machucou com a maquiagem. Achamos uma farmacia onde comprei colirio. Nao bastava soh o joelho... hehehehehehehehe Fomos no Gorge e encontramos uns amigos do Jamal, combinamos de dormir na casa deles. Chegando na casa, fui recebida pelos homens e ficamos na sala de TV. As mulheres nao subiram. Janta: Tajine de frango. Soh os homens e eu comemos lah, as mulheres comeram em uma outra sala no andar debaixo. Depois fomos dar um giro pela casa. Conheci as mulheres da casa e agradeci pela comida. Bom, tiraram todas as fotos possiveis comigo. A branquela aqui fazendo sucesso no Marrocos. Dormimos na sala de TV com um irmao do dono da casa. Na verdade nao consegui dormir, escutei as oracaoes das 4am, nao sei porque, ... read more

Sunday Day 15 Wow, what a fantastic few days! I spent two nights in the Sahara; the first at a Bedouin camp and the second with a nomadic family 15km from the Algerian border! But, let's start with Friday morning. We broke camp around 8am and left with Rasheed who was organising the next few days for us. We followed him to M'hamid where we visited a 14th century Kasbah. Considering there are 200 families that have, on average, 10-12 people per household (children and extended family) inside the walls, it was eerily quiet - though it was during the day so I guess most are at work/school. We learnt a few interesting things: white paint around a doorway means a wedding is taking place and all are invited to help celebrate and yellow means they've ... read more

Travel is the most private of pleasures. There is no greater bore than the travel bore. We do not in the least want to hear what he has seen in Hong Kong. (Vita Sackville-West) Saying goodbye to the Sahara, we head North through Arfroud, then turning West we follow the High Atlas Mountains on our right. The country is very poor. A combination of brown and grey stone plains rise to meet the snow capped mountains. A stunning scene. Every now and then we come upon a palmeraie (oasis). Towns of pink and orange mud-walled houses surrounded by date palms. Amazing agriculture: olive trees, almonds, onions, lentils, faba beans and, of course, wheat. The underground water seeps from the mountains creating shallow, crystal clear streams which filter serenely through the sands. Each farmer has ... read more

Motorhome News from Morocco 2 22nd January 2012 Continuing our travels through Morocco by motorhome, with friends, Kit and Morag from Norfolk, UK, and Brian and Kathryn from Adelaide, Australia. The Saffron Trail - into the desert, and that red warning light is still trying to tell us something! We came to Tafraoute on an anti-clockwise route previously recommended by friends; from Tiznet on the Atlantic coast, climbing up the precipitous road into the Anti-Atlas Mountains. For the Imelda Marcos fans amongst you, Tafraoute is the place to come for shoes; the round toed Berber variety, plain or delicately embroidered, yellow for the gents and red for the ladies, all hand-made in the tiniest of dingy workshops on narrow alleys in the souk. I guess we take bread for granted back home. But it's a staple ... read more