Blogs from Marrakech, Marrakech-Tensift-El Haouz, Morocco, Africa - page 7

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Upon arriving in Marrakesh it was immediately evident we were in a larger, more modern city. On the ride from the train station to our riad we passed night clubs, fancy restaurants, and billboards advertising alcohol and cigarettes. It felt like we had pressed fast forward on the remote and arrived in the modern world. The Medina felt distinctly different as well. The streets were wide enough that cars and motorcycles could drive on them, which lead to more traffic and congestion. There were also larger monuments and distinguishable landmarks within, which in theory, should have made it easier to navigate (this didn’t actually end up being the case). Our riad, located in the southwest corner of the Medina was run by a sweet, young French woman. It was adorably decorated with a mixture of Moroccan ... read more
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We decide to spend the morning exploring the south end of the Medina. The staff at the Riad tell us that we should be fine to do this on our own, and that we won't need a guide. We're worried about getting scammed again. We decide that we must look confident, not hesitate at intersections, and on no account let anyone see us looking at a map. We make our way to the main square and then continue on south. We're momentarily confused about where to go next. A young shopkeeper smells our confusion and pounces. We try to walk away, but he tells us not to worry. He says that he's not a guide and nor does he have any snakes to hang around our necks. He also says that he doesn't want any money, ... read more
Bahia Palace
Bahia Palace
El Badi Palace


We wake up, and breathe a sigh of relief. We don't seem to have developed food poisoning overnight. We chat over breakfast to an Italian girl called Valentina, who works with Delila to manage the Riad. I ask her if she's been to Australia, but she says she's too scared. We assume this has got something to do with the plethora of deadly snakes, spiders and crocodiles that inhabit our shores, but it seems instead that she's developed a phobia of our airports from watching the Australian version of "Border Security" on Italian TV. I wonder if any of the tourist promoters back home realise that this program is deterring potential visitors. At least this explains all the satellite dishes; they're here so that the locals can watch Italian TV. I wonder why they don't watch ... read more
Jardin Majorelle
Street transport in the Medina
Jardin Majorelle


Today we've booked a walking tour of the Medina, and our guide Ben leads us out into the maze. Although there are no cars, there's no shortage of motorbikes and donkeys pulling carts, and Ben warns us to keep to the right to avoid getting mown down. He explains that the alleyways are narrow to maintain as much shade as possible, and the earthy red colours are intended to minimise reflection and thus keep the temperature down. He says that most of the buildings face into central courtyards, so they don't need windows onto the alleyways, which maintains privacy. This would seem to be just as well; the alleys are so narrow that you'd be able to read your neighbour's newspaper if you both had windows. We go into the market area, or souks, where there's ... read more
Roof terrace, Riad Kheirredine
Roof terrace, Riad Kheirredine
Roof terrace, Riad Kheirredine


Our alarm goes off at 4am. I've often wondered what 4am on a Sunday morning would feel like and now I know; it feels like I should be asleep. We expect the streets to be deserted, but they're full of youngsters in full party mode. I s'pose if you have a long siesta every afternoon maybe you don't need to sleep at night? I'd long suspected that taxi drivers were the same the world over and ours is no exception. He drives at breakneck speed and only slows down when he's approaching a speed camera. I remember Louis and Melanie pointing these out to us whenever we passed one, and Louis told us that everyone here knows exactly where they all are. This would seem to at least partly defeat the purpose of having them, but ... read more


Days have been a bit more relaxed, visited a number of museums, the highlight was the Koranic school and library building. It is very ornate with more lovely delicate stonework and tiles. Lots or rooms upstairs where the once 900 students were accommodated. Enjoyed sitting in squares, drinking mint tea and watching the world go by. Outside of the city walls we walked to the Jardin Majorellle that was designed in an art deco style in the 1920s. Yves San Laurent and Pierre Berge bought and restored it in the 1980s and their trust keeps it going. Although quite small it is beautifully laid out with colour and order carefully maintained. The paths are shiny red and there are strategically arranged pots in only one shade of blue, yellow or orange. The house/ art studio is ... read more
Souq
Jardin Majorelle


Journey here is was very long, leaving Doah at 3 am and arriving here equivalent of 10pm. But all the plans fell into place, train straight from the airport in Casablanca. Taxi into the Medina area and arriving at our riad hidden in a warren of narrow cobbled streets through a souq. First impression of the ‘biggest square’ in north Africa was not overwhelmingly good. Reminded us of Krakow but much grubbier. Lots and lots of eating places around the square and in the middle of the square. How so many carts selling orange juice for 4 DH can possibly make a living or so many barbeque stalls in the evening is hard to tell. Lots of tourists. Clearly Ramadan is not the issue here as it is in Doha. We had our first meal just ... read more
Souq
Badia Palace
Mosque


In the crazy chaos of colour and culture that is Morocco, it hard not to find inspiration in every moment of the day. The adventures of my travels that have led me here have been a combination of everything from stirring to strenuous and from pandemonium to peaceful. The last time I updated this blog I had just started my adventures in Ireland . Fortunately, since I am not very good at maintaining a blog on my own, my amazing travel buddy Abby and I started a combined one, which can be read here . Documenting the 8 months traveling, living, and working together in writing was certainly one of our brighter ideas along the way. We have now said goodbye to each other and the entire time feels like a crazy dream in an alternate ... read more
American Village adventures in France
Wonderful memories created around Europe
Moroccan marketplace


Marrakech is a city of wrenching contrasts. Broad avenues and boulevards lie almost next areas of narrow alleys and souks. A square filled with buskers and charlatans and snake charmers and monkey grinders open onto an avenue to takes you within a couple of minute to an avenue with chic shops like Fendi, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton. A city of modern large buildings and American-looking suburbs also has a 14th century madrassa. The streets are broader by far than those in Casablanca, and uncharacteristically have well marked lanes, and yet traffic seemed to be worse here than in the larger city. But the souk here in the medina is much better organized than in Fes or Meknes, with shops selling similar goods tending to be grouped near to one another. The alleyways are a little wider, ... read more
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