Day 4: Red and Yellow and Green and Blue ...

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After last night's very heavy rain, it felt cooler this morning. The fact that it was cooler may also have had something to do with the fact that I was up at 07h30 in an attempt to beat the queues and get in some early sightseeing. Not forgetting that I'd already been woken at 05h15 by the el-fajr (call to prayer)!

For an Englishman, it was an unusual start to the day. Not being renowned for our language skills, it was something of a shock that, by 08h00, I'd already had to speak English, French, German, Dutch and Arabic - in that order!

After having breakfast in the cool morning air on the rooftop terrace, I headed off towards the Majorelle Gardens. The guidebook had indicated that children, picnics and dogs were forbidden and had suggested that those rules should have been extended to coach parties. Others had also indicated to me that it was necessary to arrive early in order to miss the crowds.

And so it was that, at 08h30, after twenty minutes of walking, I paid my 30dh and became the first person of the day to enter the gardens. Making the most of the early sun and lack of people, I quickly made my way around the gardens taking suitable photographs and enjoying the solitude.

It wasn't long (09h30) before the first coach load arrived. The sound of camera shutters heralded a party of Japanese, shortly followed by twenty or so Argentinians. Next, representatives of the Netherlands showed up, leading a group of Germans. If our US cousins had been there, I'm sure we could have had a quorum for a United Nations meeting!

I was so pleased to have taken the trouble to get up early for I had had the privilege of having the gardens all to myself and it hadn't cost me a centime more! Finding a shady spot, I sat and watched the world go by.

The Majorelle Gardens were privately owned by Yves St Laurent but were originally created in the 1930s by the Majorelle family. Next to the buildings painted in the famous Majorelle blue, pots in terracotta and yellow stand out as though they shouldn't be there. The bamboo rustles in the cooling wind and little birds hop around in the gravel in which the various types, colours and sizes of cactus grow. And still they come - tourists in their hundreds to gape at the memorial to YSL and drop their rubbish beneath the benches set aside for their pleasure.

Amongst all the bustle of the city outside the walls, the terrapins climb out of the carp laden pond to sit in the sun and be pointed at. However, sitting still on my chosen bench at the edge of the gardens, there are calm moments between each wave of tourists. Stillness ensues as the French speaking group moves on and the next group appears in the opposite corner. Italians!

In which it is argued that black is white

Leaving the tranquillity of the gardens, I'm immediately accosted by offers of taxi rides, hats, necklaces, coconut and fresh fruit. Clearly the local salesmen, not to miss a trick, are aware of all the tourist locations in the city!

The heat of the midday sun hits me as I walk down the boulevard towards the Riad where I want to check (again) the price of the coming afternoon's Hammam and massage session. On the steps to the Riad, I'm accosted by a taxi driver offering me a ride. When I tell him I'm already at my destination, he offers to take me to the airport instead! What a salesman!

In reception, I enquire as to the price of my Hammam session. The receptionist recalls that I'm due at 15h00 and reminds me to take a towel but can't remember how much he quoted me the previous evening. As with everything in Marrakesh, the price seems to vary with every hour that passes as today the price is some 25% less than it was last night. I guess the only time I'll find out for sure is at the time I actually have to take my session in the Hammam!

On leaving the Riad, I'm again met by the taxi driver who just 5 minutes before had offered to take me to the airport. Once again, I'm offered a trip to the airport even though I have no bags and hadn't changed my mind in the previous 5 minutes!

Walking away, I went in search of the only street in Marrakesh that is not painted in the terracotta so famous of the environs. I walk down the Rue de la Liberté, passing the poorly dressed ladies waiting patiently by the agencies seeking work as maids, where I take my life in my hands, again, and cross the main road. Reaching the safety of the opposite pavement, I continue to the junction with Rue Yugoslavie. This is certainly off the tourist track as I find myself standing next to a burnt out Riad, the delicate smell of diesel wafting in the spring breeze from the garage on the opposite corner and mechanics beating the living daylights out of any bit of heavy metal that appears to be to hand whilst the muezzin sings out his call to prayer.

Looking round, I see no sign of the narrow alley planted with mulberry trees and crammed with single storey buildings daubed in many colours. Although this may well be the old Spanish Quarter, I can see no evidence and pick my way through the scooters littering the pavement and head off for a spot of lunch.

After a quick snack, I retrace my steps and do find a narrow street, but it's clearly not of Spanish origin and so, I head back to the Riad and my celebratory, end of holiday Hammam session and Massage.

Some Final Thoughts

It's been a very enjoyable few days in Marrakesh and with only 5 days in the office before I head off on another trip, I'm clearly a very lucky little bunny.

As the thunder rolls and the lightening lights, I've been unable to contact my transfer company to determine at what time I'm to be collected for my trip to the airport. Instead, I spoke to a very nice young lady on the phone regarding the films currently available in Marrakesh! Not quite what I had in mind!

For some light relief though, I've been reading the hotel brochure in the room. Having feeled the difference from the reception I have noticed that I'm in a Moroccan house caracterized by a hospitable and social climat. And thanks to the availability of our fiendly stuff, who is ready to serve you with a smile, I really have had an unforgetable stay. I was very careful not to use heating apparatus or electrical stove in my room and will liberate the room before 12.00am. Regarding breakfast, I did decline to place my odour with the reception. However, taking great care to understand the emergency procedures, I noted that if I discuver a fire gesrale the nearest fire alarm point and leave the room by the nearest exist.

So that's it … I'm leaving Marrakesh by the nearest exist … hope you've enjoyed reading about my exploits and looking at the photos.

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