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Published: March 18th 2009
Quarter past five in the morning. That's the time the call to prayer brought me from my sleep. Quarter past five. Turning over, I lay there until a moment or so until a more respectable 08h00 appeared. Getting out of bed, I washed, dressed and went up to the roof for breakfast.
The early morning sun was already hot and I found a table in the open air. Two of us had made a bee-line to the aforementioned table at the same time, so we decided to share. Sipping my coffee and fruit juice, we discussed our adventures and the likelihood of a trip into the mountains.
After eating, I grabbed my hat and camera and walked out towards reception. There, I encountered a small group clearly waiting for something. I'd enquired the evening before about a trip, but there was nothing on and so I was even more intrigued when Nick and Glen said they were doing a trip! Heading for reception, I gatecrashed the party, paid my 250dh and waited for the 4x4.
In which the cost of the trip doubles and there's some very unhappy people
Over breakfast, I'd been advised about a valley to
the south of Marrakesh which was towards the Atlas Mountains and was full of Almond blossom. Nothing ventured nothing gained.
Nick, Glen and I climbed into the 4x4 and our driver, a man of few words, drove us at 25mph though Marrakesh, past the Royal Palace and out towards the south.
Countryside is too strong a word and I suspect Morocco will be a lovely place once it’s finished. All around were part built houses, walls marking some form of boundary but with nothing in the middle and piles of rubble. I'm sure there's a plan somewhere but it's clearly not been articulated.
Being somewhat
au fait with our Arab cousins, it was only a matter of time before the pre-arranged stop “to have a look at some ornaments” happened. Whilst I took the opportunity to collect some photos, our driver herded the others into the shop. To be honest, I wouldn’t give any of the stone dolphins, elephants, lamps or camels house space but clearly enough tourists do. And I won’t even mention the stone cobras!
Not having sold anything to us, we continued for another 30 minutes before pulling into a petrol station. Thankfully, we
Hidden Berber Village
Look carefully and I assure you it is there!didn't have to get out and buy any fuel! Continuing on at the rather sedate pace, one would have thought the 4x4 was made of tinderbox as the slightest bump in the road caused the driver to slow down from his 40kph!
What seemed like several days had passed, we began to see the snow capped mountains coming into view through the heat haze. In the clearing air, they looked very close and, as the day wore one, would get closer. With frequent stops for photographs and “more gifts from my friends” we eventually pulled into a herbal and medicinal centre. To be honest, I really couldn't think of anything less interesting but, when in Rome …
Anyway, after 15 minutes of being guided round a garden looking at mint, rosemary, sage, wormwood, etc., we were ushered into a little room and offered tea. Then came the lecture. 30 minutes of what herb did what to what and when and in what state (powdered, liquefied, mixed with oil, honey, bees wax) … yawn … I'd have sold my mother to get out of that lecture - but having already done that previously, I was stuck with having lotions
Toubkal
Next to the jeep you will see a camel. However, I cannot fathom where you'd be able to go for a camel ride in this area - nor indeed, who'd want to go for a camel ride! and the like dabbed over my arm.
And we still hadn’t seen the valley!
Finally, 3 hours after leaving Marrakesh, we arrived at another stop. Fearing the worst, we alighted the 4x4 and stood in the cooler air. Oh yes; when the temperature’s some 30°C, why did the driver not turn the heating off and put the air conditioning on! Where was I? Oh yes. Waiting in the cooler air … we were met by another guide … who was to lead us up in to the mountains to see a waterfall. More money, I suppose.
Crossing a very swollen river via a “footbridge” made of bits of stick loosely tied together, we began to climb the side of the mountain. As we climbed, we ascended through beautiful almond blossom and, getting above the trees, had the first view of the valley proper. Berber villages clung to the sides of the mountain, camouflaged against the red earth, hanging precariously. Little stalls selling necklaces, more camels and dolphins and even tagines littered the paths.
The higher we climbed, the cooler it became. Crossing the river several time using the little bridges or stones laid strategically in the
water, we eventually made it to the bottom of the main cascade. White water plummeted down the side of the mountain, roaring as it went. Above, the snowy peak of Toubkal shone like a beacon in the sunshine whilst we, in the shade, were sprayed by ice cold melt water.
After a few moments break, we began to climb even higher. This time, however, the path was not obvious and I was a little wary as my shoes were not really suitable for this sort of walking. Nonetheless, we continued and, in the middle of nowhere, came across another Berber trying to sell us necklaces. This chap was so keen, he was even attempting to set fire to the stones to show they were genuine!
Having taken in the views, we arrived back at the 4x4 at almost 14h00; hungry. Our guide suggested a donation of 100dh each, but we commented that, for an hours work, this was more than we’d get in the UK. He was eventually offered 100dh in total but declined. I took it back and wandered off. He followed and an argument ensued - with him pointing out that he only worked 2 or
3 days a week and we pointing out that we’d like to work 2 or 3 days a week at full salary! Having flatly refused to pay 300dh he asked for 200dh but we settled on 150dh. He wasn’t happy and neither were we.
Nevertheless, it was now 14h30 and we were hungry. Knowing the price of a tagine in Marrakesh we sought about more bargaining, found a place to eat by the river and got ourselves a 3-course lunch for 90dh. A bargain! Starting off with a salad of egg, tomato, onion, cucumber and lettuce, I moved on to a chicken tagine with lemons and finally finished with oranges and cinnamon. All of this was washed down with the finest champagne that money could buy. Not really. A bottle of water!
Returning to Marrakesh, the temperature went up and upon arriving back at the Riad, I arranged a visit to the Hammam and a massage for the following day. Having had all that fruit, I deserve a treat!
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