Blogs from Mali, Africa - page 2
For two centuries there were two groups living peacefully in the Dogon country - the Dogon people who were farmers and the Tellem - the meat eaters or pygmy small red people. The land back then was forest and had all the big game animals like the lions. But one day the Dogon people decided to cut trees down to create more land for cultivation. With that, overtime, the lions and other animals left and so too the Tellem. A war happened and the midget sized Tellem lost out and moved on to the forests of Congo and Cameroon or north to Burkina Faso… Who knows? Dogon country is made up in 3 parts – the plateau, the ridge and the plains. Coming from Mopti, Dogon is south about an hours motorbike ride. I organised a ... read more
I sat there amongst the rubble that was the Mopti 4WD station. It was dry season and the weather was scorching. At 830am it was already in the 40’s and there was no sign of departure. I waited a few hours, constantly with the thoughts that how much longer do I have to put up with this annoying guide standing by my side and the prospect of leaving at the hottest point of the day. As the time ticked to 10am I questioned my motives for going, ‘Why do you need to go here? Because you have to? Because you can’t say you’ve traveled Africa unless you’ve been to Timbuktu? Come on mate you’re not an explorer. You’re a traveller. There is no need to go there. Just because it’s classed as the ‘Holy Grail’ of ... read more
The Dogon are an ethnic group living in the central plateau region of Mali, south of the Niger bend near the city of Bandiagara in the Mopti region. The population numbers between 400,000 and 800,000. The Dogon are best known for their mythology, their mask dances, wooden sculpture and their architecture. The past century has seen significant changes in the social organization, material culture and beliefs of the Dogon, partly because Dogon country is one of Mali's major tourist attractions. The principal Dogon area is bisected by the Bandiagara Escarpment, a sandstone cliff of up to 500m high, stretching about 150 km. To the southeast of the cliff, the sandy Séno-Gondo Plains are found, and northwest of the cliff are the Bandiagara Highlands. Historically, Dogon villages were established in the Bandiagara area in consequence of the ... read more
Pourquoi Gouina ? Pour ses chutes, leur beauté et l'image qu'elles donnent du Mali, pour la ruralité et l'échange qui peut en résulter entre nos différentes cultures, parce que nord ou sud nous faisons face aux mêmes enjeux, pour les hippopotames, pour, pour le grand potentiel du lieu et sa tranquillité et parce qu'il n'y a pas de moustiques. Le choix d'implantation pour le projet de centre socioculturel s'est aussitôt porté sur les trois bâtiments assez proches des chutes sans y porter non plus préjudice, fortement dégradés mais ayant le mérite d'être déjà existants. Nous voulons les rénover pour les orienter sur 3 domaines : écologique, professionnel et socioculturel. L'observatoire écologique a pour fonction de surveiller le site et de garantir sa sécurité écologique, répertorier et protéger les espèces animale... read more
IMAGES OF MALI...FESTIVAL AU DESERT 2011...TIMBUKTU Our encampment is a large circle of tuareg goatskin tents covered in a red dye that brushes off on our clothes and skin...Den & I share with Mike & Ros. I erect my Socceroos flag next to the From Here 2 Timbuktu flag so our Aussie presence is proclaimed...and as it turned out notwithstanding we were 4 among a group of over 20, our encampment was often referred to by others as "the Aussies"...maybe it was our wedding on Day 2 (see next blog)...or maybe it was because we had just lost the Ashes and the Poms among us liked to rub it in...or maybe it was 'cause we had travelled the furthest to be here! Anyway our group was the best of the best...everyone got on well and ... read more
IMAGES OF MALI...TIMBUKTU...THE ARRIVAL Sanddunes line the Niger riverbank as our pinasse slides into the port of Korioume...people everywhere...hands grabbing our packs to load into 4WDs or reaching out in the event we are feeling benevolent...goodbyes to Ibrahim & Amadou who will now head downriver...into 4WD with Bastos...telling us this will be the BEST Festival au Desert yet...and the President is coming...belt along tarmac through a grove of Aussie gums...then through sand...through a brick signless gate...BIENVENUE A TOMBOUCTOU..."Welcome to Timbuktu"...we have made it...that fabled city...place of learning...once on the Niger river...now 20kms away...overtaken by the Sahara Desert... Welcome to Timbuktu...the city of 333 Saints...La Mysterieuse Relax & Enjoy, Dancing Dave (who danced, danced and kept on dancing until he got to Timbuktu...(as you do)..... read more
FACES OF MALI...TIMBUKTU Many faces partially obscured by the indigo turbans of the Tuareg..or smiling from them...the nomadic peoples of the southern Sahara Desert...strong faces...showing resolve, endurance and handsome all...Tuaregs arriving by camel to trade...but also Songhai (descendents of the Songhai Empire who once controlled the gold & salt trade) & Bozo (fishermen of the Niger) also wear turbans of many colours to protect from the unrelenting strong sun...Felani (nomadic herders & traders) in their distinctive dome hats... We are now in Timbuktu...that mythical location that does exist...and these people bear witness to that... Timbuktu...overtaken by the Sahara Desert...the city of 333 saints...repository for ancient manuscripts...where 3,000 rifles were burnt in 1996 to mark the end of the Tuareg rebellion in the Place de la Paix "the Flame of Peace"... read more
IMAGES OF MALI...UP THE NIGER IN A LEAKY BOAT We piled onto our pinasse near Mopti...5 men lifted the back & pushed us off...into the middle of the Niger...then the sound & sight of water rushing at our feet...yikes "We are sinking!!!!" Pull into the riverbank lifting our packs & whatever onto bench seats or into our arms to avoid soaking...pile out with cameras, daypacks etc and sit on a concrete bank for a fish sorting area ...silence...reflecting...pondering...we have three days in this boat to get to Timbuktu...and we have just started...and there is a hole as big as my fist in the bottom... And so started our "leisurely" cruise up the Niger River to Timbuktu! We had been joined by Guy, our tour operator from 'From Here 2 Timbuktu' the night before in Mopti together ... read more
IMAGES OF MALI...ROCK ON ROCK IN DOGON COUNTRY The top of the falaise was rock, rock and more rock, appeared to be ironstone on sandstone...& we went up and down, by, and along until we rocked into Konsogou-Ley for a cup of tea, and "Welcome, welcome, you are very welcome" from our host as he played his own composition on his dogon guitar...and of course we danced...and hugged as we left...a very special time...and a highlight of the trek. Further rock hopping, climbing, winding, up, down and around...until we arrived at Dourou...a village split in half by a massive crack in the rock...and that is what there was...rock, rock and more rock...1,000 people living there...in a severe landscape... The accomodation was not condusive to pleasant sleeping...all inside, windowless and no free rooves...so we mixed with ... read more
IMAGES OF MALI...ROCKIN' ON IN DOGON COUNTRY We trek north out of Ennde along the base of the tombed cliff. It is as if the Tellem or Dogon god cut this massive rock step 200 km long and...we are trekking on the flat base and the cliff is the step we must climb. Today we climb the falaise...how I do not know. Yabatalou for lunch...that chicken that just ran past is smiling at you from your plate...massage and siesta...and the odd first aid. A big dance session with the locals...and reggae danced out of there... Then boys grab our packs and we say "au revoir" to Edward our bullock driver. We scale the falaise...through small villages & oases as we go...and to the top...to the buildings of rock and mud that is the rock platform village ... read more

























