Blogs from Mali, Africa - page 21

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Africa » Mali » Dogon Country February 20th 2005

Some places are tourist honey pots for a good reason. The Dogon country is one of Mali's tourist honey pots. It deserves its status. The villages of the Dogon people are clustered around picture postcard scenery - a remote escarpment that was easy to defend from rivals. The Dogon people also have a unique culture. It's a must see destination best done by walking from village to village. This means you must be prepared to do without electricity, to use bucket showers and squat toilets, and sleep on the roofs of houses with only the stars and the moon for illumination. I've just come back from the Pays Dogon - it was brilliant! I booked with a tour company - a mistake. It's always better to book direct with the actual guides. You get the same ... read more
Pays Dogon
Pays Dogon
Pays Dogon

Africa » Mali » District of Bamako » Bamako February 13th 2005

I've been taking it very easy for a few days, in fact I spent several days in bed! The morning after I arrived in Bamako I fell ill, with Malaria. That is despite the prophylaxis I have been taking. Malaria can never be taken lightly - it kills one million children in Africa every year. I arrived in Bamako on the evening of Tuesday 8th of February. At that point I felt fine. When I got up on the Wednesday morning I didn't feel rested. I also had loose bowel movements and felt nauseous. I went into town to find the banks - they wouldn't accept my travellers cheques and Mali's only ATM didn't like my Visa card. I wasn't desperate for money so I went to an Internet cafe. I had to give up on ... read more
Bamako
Bamako
Bamako

Africa » Mali January 5th 2005

After my 3 day trek in Dogon Country I returned to Bandiagra on Tues 21 Dec to find Neil waiting for me at a campsite just outside of town at Hotel Toguna. Unfortunately his trip had been cut short on day 1 - he'd got stuck in a swamp, used the Diff Lock Gear to get himself out, but then been unable to take it off afterwards. He'd decided to abort his trip, anxious about the possibility of causing lasting damage to the gearbox. That night, as we swapped stories of our separate adventures, we were surprised to find the campsite fill up with other travellers - the most we'd encountered since leaving Morocco. There was a huge truck with about 15 travellers from the UK, Europe and USA who were travelling to South Africa on ... read more

Africa » Mali January 4th 2005

After the hassle of Bamoko we headed east to Severe, Mopti and Dogon Country. We'd both decided to do our own thing for a couple of days - Neil wanted to go off-roading with the Landrover in swampland, maybe even get to Timbuktu & I wanted to spend some days trekking in Dogon Country. So, with Mac's Refuge at Severe as our base we set off on our trips. That was after I'd spent a whole hour changing travellers cheques at a bank - I'm still at a loss as to how it took that long but that long it did indeed take! My first adventure was taking the bush taxi to Bandiagra - one of the gateway towns for the Dogon Country - I basically had to buy my ticket and wait for....2 and 1/2 ... read more
Mud houses & Granaries
Houses at Ireli
Kids at Dourou

Africa » Mali December 16th 2004

We eventually made it to Kidira last Friday - 10th December and what a contrast the border crossing was - we had to hunt out all the officials & one of them even let us film him stamping the vehicle carnet! But, it all turned out to be too good to to be true...we arrived in Kayes & promptly got stopped by the Police who were not nice at all...they were very upset with the dodgy insurance we'd bought at Rosso in Senegal. After 1 1/2 hours of debate, we finally acknowledged that our Senegal insurance for the whole of West Africa was worthless & paid out another 30 pounds for a months worth of insurance for Mali - this should hopefully cover us for Burkino Faso & Ghana as well though! Highlight of the day ... read more

Africa » Mali » District of Bamako » Bamako July 16th 2004

The rainy season seems to have begun in earnest. The rain still falls mostly at night, but it’s power and fury are like nothing I have seen before. Here, one is never surprised by the onset of a storm. Piercing cracks of thunder and seemingly interminable lightning strikes (a fireworks displays that many would be proud to emulate) slowly, inexorably wage successful battle against the fierce unforgiving sun. The sky becomes dark gray, a few shades this side of ebony, and the winds start to howl and swirl ferociously, and finally, almost anti-climactically, the torrential downpour begins. No, I don’t spend all of my time mesmerized by the feats of Mother Nature, or for that matter running from her vengeful wrath. I do have several important things to accomplish here. But, let me start from the ... read more

Africa » Mali » District of Bamako » Bamako July 11th 2004

One of the neat things about living in various places and not just passing through is being able to observe and sometimes participate as the local people celebrate or commemorate the principal stages of the life cycle: birth, coming-of-age, marriage and death. In Japan I was privileged to attend a wedding of a fellow teacher, and although the Western influence on the dress and ceremony was strong, the Japanese setting created an atmosphere that hinted of ancient rites and customs, unique to their culture. Similarly, at a coming-of-age ceremony which celebrated entrance into adulthood at age twenty, I saw young men dressed in Western-style suits and women dressed in gorgeous kimono with an elaborate bow tied across the back. They were eager to leave the gymnasium and begin exercising the «rights» that adults enjoy the world ... read more

Africa » Mali » District of Bamako » Bamako June 28th 2004

I am currently in Bamako, the capital of Mali, as I write this, my town, Ouelessebougou, not being sufficiently advanced to have access to the internet. Bamako is a vibrant, bustling city of more than a million, but it is very much a local place with sidewalks filled with street vendors. There is no 5 star hotel per se, but of course there are some luxurious accomodations and fancy western restaurants for the occasional foreigner who stumbles into this city. The national museum is pretty impressive, but unfortunately Mali, once the home of three great empires, retains little of its great heritage. Most artifacts have long ago been pillaged and plundered. I visited in Bamako the national zoo, a journey better ... read more

Africa » Mali » Dogon Country December 28th 2002

Thanks for all your messages, sorry that the weather in the UK is not good, its really hot and sunny here! We are of course still having a brilliant time. Christmas day we spent in a campsite near the small town of Bandiagara in Dogon Country (50 people and one toilet!!) We did a huge cooked breakfast without the meat, a light lunch then a massive dinner. We'd bought a pig and a goat that the campsite slaughtered and cooked for us (and upset people by bringing in the live goat on the back of a moped, draggin it “screaming” round the back of the camp, and then...silence...one dead goat!), then had roast pumpkin, roast onion, jacket spuds, coleslaw, gravy, banoffee pie and pizza (there are a couple of part Italians on the other truck who ... read more
Looking over the escarpment to the Dogon village of Banani
Houses and Granaries, Banani
Cooking Christmas breakfast

Africa » Mali » District of Bamako » Bamako December 18th 2002

We have now arrived in Bamako, the capital of Mali. It is roasting here, up to 37 C in the shade, and I am sure that things will get hotter. Thanks for all the mail you've been sending. From Nouakchott to Nema the road was newish tarmac and we drove a good 400km each day. We didnt stop really for anything other than toilet stops, lunch and a quick stop in any towns for food etc. The scenery started off as typical desert, rolling sand dunes, flat sand as far as you can see. The second day out we drove through a bunch of huge escarpments, pretty impressive, and a nice change from flat sand. One night we camped in the middle of this huge dirt field, no trees or bushes or anything. These long convoys ... read more
Collecting water from the well




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