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Published: June 28th 2007
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24.06.07
Leaving Dar Es Alaam is an exercise in patience as the traffic is dense and taxis darting in and out by just hooting and wiggling themselves in, just about the same as in Woodstock Cape Town. With our Landrover and Cape Town experience we did just fine and we copied the local driving style to our own advantage. Buses overtake at suicidal speed in curves and more than once we had to come to a complete standstill to avoid a collision. The traffic got better after a few hundred kilometres. A friendly heavily armed policeman assured us the shortcut to Pangani will be fine and indeed it saved time and we had a nice drive through the centre of small villages often only meters away from the huts doorsteps. We arrived at a very pleasant beach campsite and to our surprise we met the same Zimbabweans from the day before from Jangweni again . They had taken the generally recommended track and although they had left before us and had faster cars arrived later. The GPS showed once more its value. When driving in towns it allows earlier decision which lane to take and thus giving anyone around
the impression that one is not a stranger to the area. Having the worn in look of a local Muzungu makes live easier and a whole lot safer too.
25-06-07
Our campsite is right at the beach and for the first time I used my Segway on the beach in the deep sand and it was the greatest fun. Beach walks - piece of cake for me now. The campsite has power, a small A-frame and big shady trees. Next door to it a Canadian couple has made its home with lovely very comfortable beach houses to rent, a small fashion boutique (!) and a tiny delicatessen shop (!) with daily fresh bread, Nutella, wine and all. Amazingly all of this far away from anything. While I write this I watch the colourful fishing boats rocking gently in the blue ocean, even more colourfully dressed local woman balancing huge bundles of firewood on their heads are passing along the beautifully clean beach, friendly greeting “Jambo” on passing. We will go over for drinks later and Vanessa has made us a late lunch with skewers of pork wrapped in bacon and a glass of ice cold Vasecco. Sadly our
supply of wine is slowly (or shall I say quickly) coming to an end. The corrugated roads and thirsty campers get quickly to the bottom of the biggest supply.
After having checked on all facts and information available, we decided to carry on into Kenya tomorrow. Apparently the road is treacherous but tar from the border onwards.
26-06-07
After a quick dip in the sparkling swimming pool we joined the Zimbabweans for dinner. They had prepared a lovely chicken curry with rice and we added some wine. We heard the sad storiesof how they lost their farms and how the authorities are just bulldozing over any objections. Sometimes only hours are given to vacate the farm with your personal belongings, sometimes even this was denied. The four werer adamant not to leave their country they were born in. They had also visited Shiwa Ngandu and stayed with Mark and Mel. They also enjoyed the camping there very much. Three Toyotas from Jo;burg also camped there at the same time and to one of them the same happened as to us the previous year. Their car suddenly was in flames and burnt out, apparently due to a faulty electrical
connection at the fridge. They apparently had planned their trip for over a year as a once in a lifetime experience and it came to such a horrible end. We feel for them as we know all too well how that feels. We do not know them, but wish them that all goes well with from now on.
Wednesday 27-06-07
The first 60 km were not so bad in comparison to what was to follow. The potholes became so many that the ridges in between became the obstacle. You know, the kind of effect you experience when looking at a Hieronymus Bosch picture. Depending what your eyes(brain) interprets as foreground or background the stairs are leading to the bottom down or o the front up. But even bad roads do end and we arrived at the border at 11:00. It was an almost hassle free crossing with polite and efficient border personal. The Kenyan officer greeted me in German and actually became impatient as the quew wasn’t moving fast enough for him to stamp the documents and passports. Well, Kenya greeted us with fair roads and a lush greenery, more Mediteraian feel than Tanzania. Friendly police officers at
the roadblocks gave us no hassle and welcomed us enthusiastically to the country. A nice feeling to be genuinely welcomed. We found our next overnight destination right on the beach “where God takes his holidays” It promises on the roadside board. The palace is owned and run by an old German man and he has done a fabulous job of creating a small paradise amongst Mangrove trees and corral reefs. The meanwhile familiar sight of open plan restaurant with tall thatched roofs is enhanced with nicely build pillars of corral stone, rough but precisely set and harmoniously fitting in with the environment. Hans, that is his name origins from my area in Germany and has written various cook books and is just about to publish another one about this stretch of prime real estate and its interesting history and how he came about it. Apparently a game of chess with the local big shot made the breakthrough. Hans was not only chosen by the ancestral spirits of this place but has also won the heart of the witchdoctor’s daughter. The area practises a matriachial system (all decisions are made by women and all land is passed through them). We will stay two days and enjoy this relaxing place. Only wind and solar power are used and mineral water is on tap. We very much appreciate the latter as all water in Tanzania is a health risk and we haven’t filled our water tanks since Namibia.
During the day the weather changed and a miserable rain front approached. We reacted by booking in one of the lovely guestrooms with a strong hot water shower and a comfortable Zanzibari four poster bed with boxed mosquito netting.
27-06-07
The rain has been quite strong during the night - rather unusual for this time of the year we are assured. Breakfast with Hans who promised to show his solar panel ystem. All equipment comes from Arizona/USA or Freiburg SolarPanel company. He is a source of endless stories, one more phantastique then the previous. From being rewoken from a 2 week coma by a witchdoctor and establishing single handled clean water supply for having a sophisticated reward system for his workers, who can choose to be build a house, go for a holiday to Germany or getting two weeks off work or being paid an extra education in a chosen profession. All workers do job rotating so the cook also learns how to do wood carving or gardening. Hans le me use his internet access, so I can upload this latest blog.
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Roger & Pauline
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Sounds fantastic!
Hi Rolf and Vanessa, Last blog sounded just perfect. Think we will have to get on the next flight to Kenya!!! It must be fantstic, and we look forward to your next installment - and to having you back - eventually!!!! How long do you intend staying in your new found paradise?!!!!! Lots of love Pauline and Roger xx