Sign In
Advertisement
Published: August 26th 2011August 26th 2011
ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
All roads lead to Turmi...but only if you are heading that way...I surmise...but if you travel in another direction...well it may go anywhere...but there.
"That's a Desert Rose...I've seen those in Central Australia...but how can they be here...in Southern Ethiopia?"
So Mike was given the task of finding out...as we scoured the scrub for others...and then we saw it...a substantial specimen...shapely...well endowed... golden firm trunk...lightly clad in pink flower...let's stop and take a photo?
Look left...the Desert Rose...but I can only see the lustrous brown Desert Rose leaning on the stick gate opposite... shapely...well endowed... firm breasted... clad only in a cow skin skirt...a smiling young mother...a child on one leg...another wide eyed and gazing.
So Mike & I photograph the pink Desert Rose...then turn...she's still at the gate...slipping a cowskin lined with cowrie shells around her neck for modesty...and so we approach...beautiful smile...you can tell by the hair...simply gorgeous...typically Hamar.
Den & Ros keep saying we missed her incredible body...her incredible breasts...wasting our time photographing a tree...women can say those things...as if we hadn't noticed...but if a man says this...it ain't cool...so of course we don't let on!!!...but of course we noticed...durrr...durrr!!!
The President had cancelled our rooms at Turmi Eco Lodge for the 13th Annual Pastoralists Celebrations...so tents tonight...decent size...choose our spot...clear away all the rocks...luxury...until a rooster replaced the usual call for prayer..!
I rarely use my mobile phone in Oz...only ever had one...always carry it overseas...invaluable...if I can remember how to use it!
I remember in Tanzania on an earlier trip...our safari truck leader from Kenya to Zambia tried to get me to pay for Serengeti balloon flights...again...as if I was not holding my payment vouchers in my hand...and the Lodge where we had stopped to confirm the flights would not let me use their phone...yikes...my mobile has no reception...they think they have me...
So I wandered from the Lodge into the Serengeti...into the grasslands...unconcerned for my safety...until I had mobile reception...bingo...sat in the Serengeti out of sight and rang Melbourne...3 a.m. there...told me "Do not pay again...You have already paid!"...held out for two and a half hours..."OK we'll accept you have already paid...collect you at 4.30am tomorrow from your bush camp!"
Unfortunately there was payback for my phonecall...but that's another story.
Then in Zambia when the cook stole my passport and all my money...absolutely screwed...no mobile reception for days...had to leave the safari...told by the travel company he had done it before..."so he'll probably get a Warning"...missed out on Zim & Botswana...still spewing!
Back in Turmi...our driver/guide, Gobeze often on his mobile...invaluable...in touch with the other guides...waiting for news if there is a Hamar bull-jumping and if so where. An invaluable "bush telegraph" assisted by technology.
And there was...short notice...into the 4WD...along remote bush tracks...to a dry riverbed...pack in with heaps of other 4WDs...250 birr per person...plus a local guide...photos free!!!...all notified by mobile...like on game drives they mobile the location of lions eating a giraffe etc and the 4WDs converge & the hyenas circle.
Walk about 1 km down the dry riverbed...past Hamar boys herding goats with vultures crowded in a tree waiting.
And up ahead...two pulsating circles of chanting Hamar women & girls...all with hair glistening...heavily daubed with brown ochre and ghee...tourists with cameras circling ...Hamar men with rifles...ochre hair...standing around.
I meet the initiate to manhood...tall...20 yrs old...head shaven leaving a thick long black tuft on top...clad only in a light checked skirt around his waist. Meet his father and uncle with rifle...one ochre headed...the other in a quirky hat.
The rest of his relatives and supporters are painting their faces over there.
The Hamar women are usually bare breasted or with cowskin breast-plates...but here all with daubed hair were covered...in singlets, t-shirts, twisted cloth concealing their breasts...young and old...married & others in their teens...revealing their backs for flagelation later.
Those without daubed hair...black and plaited...mostly bare breasted...unmarried.
I presumed the modesty was for the benefits of tourists...in case of sensibilities...tradition versus economic expediency...probably an appropriate call.
Our local guide hurries us to walk up the river...one and a half kms up a narrow thorn-lined track...a stream of ants...mainly tourists...try to overtake and thorns reach out to rip at you...to a clearing in the scrub...surrounded by flat topped acacias.
Hamar women with their braided hair glistening with copious amounts of ochre & ghee working themselves into a frenzy...their backs bare...exhibiting numerous long raised welts.
About a dozen bulls are paraded in...the women taunt them...they appear non-plussed...certainly not fazed.
To the side...a young woman screaming demands to a warrior with a long switch...an older woman screaming at the younger to go away. The younger's demands being satisfied by a solid whip to her side bending into and cutting her back...walking away laughing as another takes her place...the welt glistening and bloody...thus showing her interest in the young man.
A scream...a woman attacking the holder of the switch for hitting her in the breast...another complaining she has only been hit once...pulsating rhythms of many feet...small bells on their legs...Hamar women jumping.
Our guide grabs us to change position...front row of course...directly in line for the bull jumping...tourists jostling for position...keeping down so those behind can see...a big white lady then stands in front of everyone...legs apart and solid...she ain't moving or caring...many lenses a pushing...the tribe's going to make a fortune..!
The bulls are lined up abreast...mazas...recent initiates hold the bulls...the initiate naked...western women exclaiming over "his magnificent butt"...he being gathered in ...encouraged by warriors...the stage will soon be yours.
This was not a quick process...and was the real thing...we felt this was not put on for the tourists...this was an important step...once achieved the youth was eligible for marriage...we were only payment on the side.
All is ready...Hamar women to my left...bulls lined up in front...warriors lined up to my right...have I time for a parorama?..click, click, click...here he comes...jumping the bulls...onto one back then another...about four to go...arms swinging for balance...thud...lands like a gymnast...his glory swinging...I don't think I can show that one!!!
Three more times and he's done...he'll now join the maza...the young initiated...head off alone to other villages...receiving food from them...not returning to his village to live with the maza until his time is over.
It's over...like the end of a big game...milling around...spectators heading for the exits...our guide anxious we get to the 4WD early for ease of getting out...see a warrior...dressed to the nines...hair ochre coiffed...white feather atop.
Click...he glares...comes toward me...gesticulating...this is one photo I want...he doesn't care I have paid the fee so photos are free...assistance from another guide...he agrees...side on...looking down...10 birr please.
Our guide has come back for me...must hurry...OK...jog past the line of tourists negotiating the thorn-lined track...scampering where possible...rarely snagged...pleased with my dexterity.
And lucky we did hurry...drivers unravelling their tightly packed vehicles...give an aquaintance a pile of one birr notes for tomorrow...into the vehicle...spewing dust as we rip along the track...I can taste Africa...yes...all roads lead to Turmi...this time..!
And as dusk settles...the only sounds that break the blazing red and yellow sunset...silhouetting a rocky hill and scrubby trees...about twenty pigeons settling on the roof of the guards' gatehouse at the Lodge...grab their rifles..."Please sir take our photo?"
Relax & Enjoy,
Dancing Dave (dreaming of jumping, ochre & ghee)
There are more photos below
Photos: 62
Displayed: 29
Displayed: 29
Advertisement
My wife Denise & I like to travel "on paths less travelled" that capture our imagination, inspire my photography & where we mix with locals & remain safe.
Visited Countries Map
... full info
| Joined | February 22nd 2011 | Trips | 0 |
| Last Login | May 19th 2013 | Followers | 52 |
| Status | BLOGGER | Follows | 53 |
| Blogs | 73 | Guestbook | 676 |
| Photos | 5,015 | Forum Posts | 1369 |
Blog Options
Ethiopia
Unique among African countries, the ancient Ethiopian monarchy maintained its freedom from colonial rule, with the exception of the 1936-41 Italian occupation during World War II. In 1974 a military junta, the Derg, deposed Emperor Haile SELASSIE (wh...more info
Advertisement
Blogged From
TravelBlog Awards
Find Hotels
Guests: | Rooms: |
HERDING GOATS
while vultures crowd in the tree waiting
MISS WORLD 2011
Definitely a Contender..?
Comments
Date: 26th August 2011
GRACIAS GRACE
Always nice to receive a comment on my blogs. Of my 3 Ethiopian tribe blogs, you are the first...so a special gracias...and from Argentina...one of my favourite places! Footprints Ethiopia...ask for Ermias...a true gentleman. I'll email details.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
GRACIAS GRACE
Always nice to receive a comment on my blogs. Of my 3 Ethiopian tribe blogs, you are the first...so a special gracias...and from Argentina...one of my favourite places! Footprints Ethiopia...ask for Ermias...a true gentleman. I'll email details.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
The intensity and concentration of the eyes of all involved in the face painting portion of the initiation is incredible - you have captured it beautifully in this photo.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
Date: 26th August 2011
stunning photos
Hi, To be quite honest, traveling to Africa really never caught my attention. But your pictures are just so amazing, which is the reason I opened and read your blog.I enjoyed reading your blog and seeing those pictures put me in a really different place and time.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
stunning photos
Hi, To be quite honest, traveling to Africa really never caught my attention. But your pictures are just so amazing, which is the reason I opened and read your blog.I enjoyed reading your blog and seeing those pictures put me in a really different place and time.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
Date: 27th August 2011
THANK YOU SHANE
I was hoping you would see my Ethiopian blogs...you having been there! We did North & South...stunning. To be able to go to these places...and capture & convey what we saw...I am privileged.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
THANK YOU SHANE
I was hoping you would see my Ethiopian blogs...you having been there! We did North & South...stunning. To be able to go to these places...and capture & convey what we saw...I am privileged.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
Date: 27th August 2011
THANK YOU ARIES & RINKA
For taking the time to comment...it does lift the humble bloggers spirits. Check out my previous blogs...our adventures in Mali & Ethiopia...Relax & Enjoy. I am looking forward to exploring your blogs.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
THANK YOU ARIES & RINKA
For taking the time to comment...it does lift the humble bloggers spirits. Check out my previous blogs...our adventures in Mali & Ethiopia...Relax & Enjoy. I am looking forward to exploring your blogs.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
Date: 27th August 2011
You are an exceptional photographer
Time to apply for a job with National Geographic. Love your perspective and the way you inject humor.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
You are an exceptional photographer
Time to apply for a job with National Geographic. Love your perspective and the way you inject humor.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
Date: 28th August 2011
THANK YOU AGAIN DAVE & MERRY JO
Without your input when I was blogging Mali I would not be writing these stories. ...and the photos...what a privilege to share them with like-minded people... around the World no less! Your comments are always appreciated.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
THANK YOU AGAIN DAVE & MERRY JO
Without your input when I was blogging Mali I would not be writing these stories. ...and the photos...what a privilege to share them with like-minded people... around the World no less! Your comments are always appreciated.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR
Copyright Notice: All Rights Reserved
Do not copy images or text from this page without requesting and receiving permission. All rights are reserved by the author and photographer.
Tot: 0.116s; Tpl: 0.01s; cc: 16; qc: 25; dbt: 0.0223s; 1; s:apollo w:www (50.28.60.10); sld: 1; ; mem: 6.3mb
© 2013 TravelBlog.org & Bloggers
gracetandil
graciela
Love those faces
I always travel alone or with a travel mate. I would like to go to Ethiopia, and of course some other African countries, but I think travelling alone is a little complicated in those lands. Tell me: how did you visit this tribe in Ethiopia? On a tour? Alone? You can write to my email: gracetandil@yahoo.com.ar Thank you. I love the pictures and the texts you write. Love from Argentina. Graciela.
From Blog: ETHIOPIA...Jumping with the HAMAR