April 28, 2010

---

April 28, 2010
Our last full day on the MS Miriam. Today we are sailing back to Luxor and through the locks where we will go from the high side of the Nile to the low side.
I chose again to sleep in but Rick headed down to breakfast and was kind enough to bring me some sweet rolls and coffee.
It is another beautiful day in Egypt, bright sunny and only about 80 F. Since we are sailing north there is a nice breeze so it is wonderful on deck. I spend a few minutes on deck and enjoy the scenes of life along the river. Animals and children playing in the water, children waving at the boat and small villages in the hills complete the scenery.
The breeze has brought with it the sands. We are entering the sand storm season. For the next month the winds will pick up and sand storms will be prevalent. Today the sand in the breeze is evident as it covers my book and forces me inside to get on the blog.
At 10:AM there was a tour of the “behind the scenes” of the MS Miriam. I chose not to attend as I have seen the inside of a boat before and I just wanted to sit and enjoy the passing of the Nile.
At 11: AM we enter the locks of the Nile. Since we are in reverse on our trip we will be going from the High water to the Low water a drop of about 20 feet. The day is clear and as soon as we enter the waiting area for the lock we hear “Lady, Lady come to see” The shopping has begun.
Along both sides of the lock are men, old and young, calling, cajoling, and begging to show us their wares. Soon they are throwing plastic bags of shirts, carpets, table cloths and such. “Only 100 Pounds”. “Only 50 pounds”. “Only 20 pounds” come the sounds of prices falling as the boat moves forward and into the lock and past where the men can stand. The longer you wait the lower the price!
I am amazed that Cathy, our resident shopper, has been able to hold back and not buy anything. One passenger did but a very beautiful red and gold linen tablecloth for 50 pounds ($10).
We all lined the rails as the Miriam entered the lock and the gates were closed. In less than 4 minutes the water level dropped 20 feet and the gates opened once again and we entered the low side of the Nile.
Today we should arrive in Luxor at about 4 PM where we will take the buggy ride and stop at the Luxor Museum.
After lunch I just rested on the boat and enjoyed a Stella beer for only 25 Pounds ($5) on the top deck. As it was getting close to 4 PM and our arrival in Luxor I headed downstairs to the room to get Rick and prepare for our next adventure.
We docked at Luxor on schedule and headed for our horse and buggy rides through the city to the Museum and a guided tour of the wonders of Thebes, as Luxor was known in ancient Egypt.
Our horse driver was an older man with three teeth in his mouth. He spoke very limited English but enough to point out to us all the major sites as we passed the center of town. He has 5 children ranging in age from 25 to 4 (very prolific I say).
Our horse was in fine condition and pulled us along major roads where car horns beeped and cars swerved passed, but the horse just kept her head down and walked slowly along.
We went through the center of the shopping area. This was akin to a group of 20 electric golf carts going down the center lane in the local mall. Here we had people trying to shop and along comes several horse and buggies in the middle of the very narrow road with people and wares in easy reach.
I tried to snap a photo of a man holding a chicken (live chicken that is) and he runs along the carriage asking for money! I decide the better part of valor is to put the camera away and move on.
We weave our way through narrow streets and alleys constantly hearing the sound of car horns and seeing people, some begging but most are just doing their daily business. It is strange as I feel we are intruders. I feel like we are rich folk, sitting up in a horse carriage looking at the lower classes for our entertainment. We are intruding on their daily lives. There is something surreal about the scene but it happens a hundred times a day and we soon arrive at the ATM machine so we can replenish our wallets and head to the Museum.
The Luxor Museum is a modern museum, well lit with temperature controlled exhibits. Unlike the Cairo Museum, the Luxor Museum is well planned and is very informative. A visit to this museum is well worth the time and effort.
Mohammed takes us from one exhibit to the next. It really helps to have an educated Egyptologist as our guide as he takes his time and explains in detail what we are seeing. He wants us all to get something out of the visit and I am sure we did. I know I did.
We spend over an hour in the museum and head back to our horse carriages for the 30 minute ride back to the boat. While the ride was pleasant and uneventful the arrival was “interesting”
You see there is a custom in Egypt, that everyone has their hand out for more money. Trafalgar arranged this horse carriage and museum tour for the group at a cost of 275 pounds ($55) a steep price in these parts. Unfortunately that is where the controversy came in.
I understood from discussions with our Aussie travelers that it is NOT the custom in Australia to tip on top of a fee for services. It is only a custom if the service is extraordinary as the service charge is included in the fee.
So here we have a group of people whose custom it is NOT to tip and a group whose customer is to get a tip and more if possible.
So as Rick and I get out our driver asks for a tip. Forewarned by our tour guide MO that 20 pounds ($4) is sufficient I hand over a 20 pound note.
The driver says thank you, but how about my horse? OK so I fork over another 10 pounds ($2) and we are cleared to go.
The fun began when some of the Aussies tried get away with either a small tip or no tip for the driver, but were a little miffed when the driver asked for a tip for the horse and another tip for the carriage.
Tempers flared, words were spoken but Mohammed, ever protective of his flock intervened and saved the day. We all arrived safely back to the boat and dinner.
Tonight at dinner we enjoyed roast duck and pasta along with a variety of salads, hot and cold sides and of course our good by cake. This evening we filled out our departure forms and prepared our gratuities for the services rendered on the boat.
Travelers Tip
For those of you who have sailed before this will be something you already know.
The pay scale on the boat for service is very low, maybe 3000 pounds a month ($600). The service crew relies on tips to make ends meet. How much do you tip and when is a critical matter. Do not tip for every service you receive. You do not tip at dinner or at the bar or for room services. You tip one and all at the very end.
Mo was very helpful with how much to tip. We were on the moat about 7 nights and the standard tip is 150 pounds per person so for Rick and I that was 300 pounds ($60). We did get a lot of services for this small amount but MO assured us all the tips are pooled
together and everyone shares equally. So do not over tip by tipping too often and do not under tip as these people rely on their tips to survive.
Some more shopping before bed:
I found some nice silver earrings for the young Farina women and the older matriarch. Rick bought a nice silver ring for himself.
Off to the room to pack and to bed to enjoy our last night on the boat the MS Miriam. We will be sad to depart but I really do miss my wife and kids and it will be good to get back home on Saturday.

---