Advertisement
Published: March 31st 2007
Edit Blog Post
Christelle and I in the taxi this morning
Christelle and I in the taxi this morning Today, There is an annual pilgrimage being held at Doumelong. We are going there Christelle and I. Doumelong is a small borough not far from Bafoussam off the main road that links Bafoussam and Bamenda. More exactly, it is near the "Chefferie Bamougoum"(Bamougoum traditional Kingdom). The road that gets there is tarred up to a certain point after which you encounter a tough and rough dusty track. The pilgrimage is the initiative of Bafoussam diocese (Catholic church). It happens only once per year and attracts large crowds of people. I don't know the exact distance from Bafoussam to Doumelong. From "marche B" where we hopped onto the bike(see below) it is perhaps 10 or 12 kms up to Doumelong or even more.
7h30
We left home early morning and stopped a taxi that dropped us at "marche B" (a familiar area in Bafoussam). There are so many people willing to attend the pilgrimage that there is shortage of transportation and fares are escalating drastically. We initially wanted to ride inside the back of a truck. But the few trucks that came by would fill up immediately as people would hustle in. The rush was so intense that we
"Marche B" neighborhood, Bafoussam
"Marche B" neighborhood in Bafoussam. Notice far away the whitish building with the uncompleted construction by its side. It is Bafoussam's main cathedral (built in the mid-60s I gathered). felt we would never make it on time to Doumelong if we didn't find another transportation means.
Fortunately, several "benskins" (local appellation of bike riders) had turned the occasion into a money making activity. They would load up to 3 passengers (+ the driver, that's 4 people on the bike!) and carry them to Doumelong.
So we inquired at a biker nearby. They guy initially refused 500CFA for 2 of us. I had overheard the truck men asking 150CFA per head or at most 200CFA. Unwilling to keep lingering there I insisted to the biker who finally reluctantly accepted.
We sped through the traffic. But I personally did not appreciate him dodging through the cars like that. After a few minutes of serene ride, We exited Bafoussam and eventually reached a junction were we had to turn left off the main highway. The biker intended to drop us there. But I gathered Doumelong was still far away.
me :Hey we are not yet at destination...
biker :I said I would leave you people here, Doumelong is too far for the price you offered me...
me : But how come no other vehicle stops here, and all those
"Marche B" area
Many people are flocking to Doumelong this morning which is why there are so many people here. bikes passing now in front of us. You were not clear when you took us. I asked you to drop us where all the other vehicles drop their passengers...
biker : I picked up 3 persons this morning to Doumelong and they paid 1200CFA.
me (annoyed): Ok Christelle let's get down, we will do the rest on foot.
Christelle (to the biker): We will add 200CFA on top of the initial price.
biker(after thinking awhile) : Ok stay on, I will take you up to Doumelong.
We pursued the trip, faces in the pleasant morning breeze. But just a kilometer ahead, we got stuck by a persistent traffic jam. No way to move ahead. We waited a few minutes in the long queue of vehicles. The situation seemed to be only worsening with time and some bikers were already making the U-turn, leaving their passengers there. Christelle and I decided eventually to do likewise. Our driver who was losing his patience since a while was more than happy to leave us there and get back to Bafousssam. We paid and alighted. We trekked at first over the remaining patched asphalt and later on the dusty track. The remaining part
On the Bike
We are on the Bike, christelle and I. was the hilly and most tiring section. But it did me more good than harm as I could sweat a little. All over around here it is the countryside and as far as sight can carry, you only see maize farms with some isolated houses. The landscape is hilly.
When we reached Doumelong It was around 8h30, It had taken us one hour to get there. Things were just starting around. I was surprised by the affluence. Honestly I have not been to a pilgrimage before so I was also discovering what it is all about. I overheard several concordant sources estimating the attendance at some 40000 people. Notice that not only catholic christians come this annual pilgrimage, others as well. And also some visitors/onlookers driven by curiosity. I situate myself in all those groups (worshipper, visitor, onlooker) simultaneously. Some activities ongoing here: confessions session, Rosary recitation, mass, marketplace with many religious items on sale...
We went straight to the marketplace, The small room was overly crowded. After that Christelle and I split. She had met some of her classmates and friends. So I went on my own to the other side to attend rosary recitation near the
Entrance to "Chefferie Bamougoum"(Bamougoum traditional kingdom)
Entrance to "Chefferie Bamougoum"(Bamougoum traditional kingdom) and the ever present conic shapes, symbol of majesty and honor. cave of "Our lady of Doumelong".
11h30
The mass is ongoing now. There are many loud speakers placed at every corner and the mass is conducted in french, english and local bafoussam dialect. likewise for the songs. The heat is severe as the sun has risen up in the sky. There is barely enough cover from the sunrays. The few trees around are stormed by the few lucky ones. I have already drunk all the 2 x 1.5l of mineral water brought this morning.
2pm
Somewhere near the end of the mass, I met Christelle again whom I ask to go and fetch me some water. There are very few taps intended to the public around and one has to hustle to get some of the precious liquid.
Near the end of the celebration, everybody raises his stuff (water, bible, religious book, rosary, medallion/locket or any religious item you might have) to have it blessed by the bishop. I even saw a guy raising his bottle of castel beer still half full 😊. Me I raised the water christelle had diligently fetched for me, some salt I had brought since the morning and some religious
The trek.
Traipsing the countryside towards Doumelong. magazines I had purchased at the marketplace earlier. After the endless list of announcements/recommendations from the clergy. The Bishop of Bafoussam diocese at last blesses everybody (and his stuffs): In the name of the Father, the Son and the Holy Spirit. Go in peace...
Christelle had decided that she would get back to Bafoussam on foot with her classmates. So I rushed for a truck already filling up on the main road. I bargained for 250CFA before boarding. We were packed against each other really tight. Hey, I recall no being able to turn my neck to look round. But the atmosphere was fun though. Especially joking with the "motoboys" (the guys calling out for passengers and pushing us like mere goods towards the bottom of the truck, so as to leave room for newcomers). I think we could have been more than a hundred people in the back of that truck. When the back doors (or rather what serves as door) could not shut well anymore, they stopped packing and the truck gradually moved down the slope of the hill. I liked the sensation of the wind blowing over our heads and in our faces. the rowdy atmosphere
Arrival at Doumelong
We have just arrived at Doumelong. in the truck and watching pedestrians below were also entertaining.
Our truck unloaded its cargo of people at "Auberge"(neighborhood in Bafoussam). I did the remaining distance by taxi (100CFA).
I will be leaving the country soon, so this is likely one of my last blogs about Cameroon. Many people asked me about what kind of meals we have in cameroon so I carefully photographed the meals(I mean most of them because I unfortunately forgot to snap some of them) that came my way while sojourning in Cameroon. I will set up a special blog to display them...
stay tuned.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.1s; Tpl: 0.013s; cc: 7; qc: 52; dbt: 0.0499s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.2mb