Blogs from Hauts-Bassins, Burkina Faso, Africa

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Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins » Bobo-Dioulasso July 12th 2009

Well I finally got out of Mali --- described as the “Jewel of West Africa” --- but I don’t agree. It is a very wearing place to visit as an independent backpacker. Perhaps it would be better with money, a good guide and a 4 x 4. There is too little economic activity other than ripping off tourists. Also there are few ex-pats so almost all white people are tourists. Actually glad to leave, which was a hassle. Tuesday I bought a ticket for a ride to the highway at 11:30. We finally left Djenne at 3:30. I was told to be at the highway (Carafoure) at 5-6ish. Then I find out that the “bus” to Bobo only arrives at the Carafoure at 9ish every night. Why tell me to be there 3-4 hours early!? TIA! ... read more

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins » Bobo-Dioulasso April 27th 2009

The rest of this entry will be pretty abbreviated just because it was a slow journey back to Ghana and would get really really frustrating a lot of times and I am still trying to block out the bad memories. Plus we did a lot and I’m just getting tired of typing so much! So the next day we went left Timbuktu for another LOVELY ride in a 4x4 back to Mopti. Our driver was a lot better this time so we didn’t get stuck in the sand as much. We got to Sevare in about 9 hours and said bye to Jacob and headed to an internet café to email our families and tell them we got back alive. We went to a hotel and decided to try to save a few dollars and sleep ... read more

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins June 4th 2008

As the school year wrapped up in Satiri, the oldest students were preparing for national exams while the others were preparing for vacation. I finished my 3ieme curriculum early so I could spend a few weeks doing only exercises for the exam. At this point, the majority of my students stopped coming to class. They either felt sufficiently prepared for the BEPC or had given up hope of passing it. My school took three days to give a full practice exam. The students had hour-and-a-half written exams in math, physics/chemistry, biology, English, history/geography, and several exams in French. The tests are difficult and they need a 50% to pass and continue to high school. The philosophy behind grading is different here: good grades do not encourage students to “keep up the good work,” as they do ... read more

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins June 4th 2008

I spent my last few days in the village wandering to my favorite places, saying goodbye, and handing out gifts. People loved the soaps, lotions, and flashlights from the US (thanks, mom!) as well as all of the little things from my house that won’t be making the trip home. The village fonctionnaires gave me lots of nice souvenir fabric and the villagers presented me with gifts, too: mountains of peanuts, mangoes, guinea fowl eggs, a really nice carved wooden stool. They showered me with benedictions and well wishes for my family, friends, and all of the American people. I took final trips to the school, the health center, local restaurants, friends’ houses, and the clandestine women’s dolo cabaret. I spent some time just hanging out with my neighbors in the courtyard. My colleagues from school ... read more

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins May 4th 2008

The month of April was hot. Very hot every day. There were a few nights when the wind picked up and it seemed to want to rain, but we got nothing but dust storms. When I lay down to sleep at 11 pm, outside of course, the temperature is often around 94 degrees and there is no breeze. Ugh. The artificial lake that was dug in Satiri last year is long dried up. It is now a field of dry, cracked clay. We had to add another length of rope to the well bucket in order to reach the water’s surface, now a good 10 m deep. The well water is muddy but not dried up yet. Swarms of bees surround the water holes and cover puddles of spilled water. Apparently they’re thirsty too. The ... read more
Teaching 6ieme
My colleagues and me
Finishing touches

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins March 20th 2008

March 8 was International Women’s Day, a huge fête in West Africa. For several weeks the villagers were planning a department-wide celebration in Satiri. Everyone from a dozen villages was invited to an all-day event. All of the planning and organization was done by village women who met each week at the Prefet’s house. Naturally there were a couple of important village men that couldn’t stand seeing something be organized without their direction; they attended and pretended to run the meetings. The women let these men do their thing but directed their loyalty toward their female leaders: the new Prefet and a few women fonctionnaires. Mme Sané, the doctor’s wife and the school secretary, was put in charge of organizing much of the ceremony. She is smart, trustworthy, and too nice to refuse to help ... read more

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins March 20th 2008

I’ve now been living in Satiri for over a year! The second trimester of school just ended, I’m on spring break, and the weather keeps getting hotter. I had to stay put in the village for a couple of weeks at the end of February because of nation-wide strikes and demonstrations. The people were protesting the high cost of living and in particular a new import tax. There were demonstrations in many major cities, beginning with Bobo. Protests turned to destructive riots - tires burned, roads and cars were damaged or destroyed. Predictably, there were those who took advantage of the chaos to rob and damage homes and businesses. The riots lasted a few days before similar demonstrations broke out in Ouaga and other cities. The PC office in Bobo was safe except for a ... read more

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins February 14th 2008

The weather in January was downright bearable. The dry winds from the north brought lots of dust and a strange coolness. The days were in the high 80’s/low 90’s but the sun was less intense and the nights were cool: below 70 even! This was freezing for the villagers. They were bundled up in your old winter coats and huddled around fires at night, all complaining about the cold. School started thirty minutes late each morning because it was considered unjust to expect the students to arrive in the bitter early morning cold. As for me, I’m enjoying each day that it’s cool enough to sleep in my bed on a mattress and not on a cot outside. But it won’t last long now. “The Cold” has already left us and we’re headed quickly toward ... read more

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins December 20th 2007

I ni la fila! Ca fait deux jours, deh! I know…it’s been a long time since I’ve updated… The rainy season ended in October and the last month has been harvest time. This year’s rainy season came too late and didn’t last long enough, so the corn harvest has been weak. Since corn is the staple food, many villagers are concerned about shortages later in the year. Some other crops were “gatés” as well, and some, such as millet and cotton, seem to have done alright. Bike paths that once crossed vast stretches of sand are now canopied by tall stalks whose tops are inverted by the weight of millet grains. Picked cotton accumulates in mounds of fluffy softness seemingly too white for the dusty climate. The village is again empty during the day. When ... read more

Africa » Burkina Faso » Hauts-Bassins » Bobo-Dioulasso May 18th 2007

So I went into Ouaga last weekend and I had written out a whole blog update, then I forgot it in the village. So sorry for the delay and the back-dated entry. CDP got the most votes in the elections and now have a majority in the national assembly. Not sure what that means for the country exactly. Still hot here. People keep telling me that the rainy season starts in mid-May and then it gets cooler. It’s mid-May. I’m still waiting for rain. I biked in to Bobo this morning with my neighbor, and a little section of the road has been paved. That little piece was wonderfully smooth and not dusty to ride on. A couple weekends ago in the village was the dance of the masques. It is almost planting season, and ... read more




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