Blogs from North-West, Botswana, Africa - page 26

After the theatrical entertainment of the previous evening, I was relieved that there was no second performance. The marula fruit remained fastened to the trees and the Clog Family von Genet kept their slippers on and rested. As such, I had a remarkably full night’s sleep, having hit the pillow at an extremely modest 21h30. However, it was now 06h15 and the alarm hadn’t gone off. It was still dark but there were sounds. From the direction in which my feet were facing, the snuffling was alarming enough, but it was the low rumbles, sounds of breaking branches and general scary behaviour inches from my head that was my main worry. Peering into the gloom, I saw an elephant standing right outside my veranda, almost at the foot of my bed. I didn’t even need to ... read more

I’m sure I slept last night, but no sooner had I turned off the light and got under the mosquito net than it was morning. The little alarm clock was screaming at me to get up, its volume disproportionately large for its size. After a (very) hot shower, I made my way down the sandy paths to breakfast. Both Brian and Jill were there before me and were waiting patiently for their cooked meal. I took a couple of mugs of fresh black coffee and ordered a pair of fried eggs (with bacon, mushroom and beans on the side). Being Tuesday, my repast was topped by my weekly mosquito tablet and, for the journey ahead, a couple of travel tablets. Alfred was making the most of his few days alone and joined us late for breakfast. ... read more

I arrived in Maun on February 26th with the intention of staying four or five nights. Eight days later I finally dragged myself away with great reluctance to continue my journey south. If it were not for the fact that I have to be in Gaborone by Friday I'd certainly have stayed longer. In Maun I found a true home from home in the shape of the Old Bridge Backpackers. In four years of travels through nine African countries I have stayed in expensive hotels, flea pit hotels, tents, mud huts, tin shacks, the floor of a landrover and a miscellany of hostels, but nowhere has been more welcoming and more consistently helpful and friendly as Helena and Dave, and all of the other staff at the Old Bridge. There were a couple of days when ... read more

Early on Wednesday morning a small group set out from the wonderful Old Bridge Backpackers in Maun, Botswana. We were bound for the Okavango Delta, the world's largest inland delta. The Okavango River empties not into the sea, but instead into the Kalahari desert and is home to an amazing collection of wildlife including over 400 species of birds. We took a high-speed motor lauch to the edge of the protected area and there transferred to Mokoros. These traditional fishing boats can seat two people in relative comfort, while the boatman poles them through the reeds, much like an Oxford punt. In the past the boats have always been made from local woods, but recent conservation initiatives have resulted in a gradual switch to fibreglass. The tourist programme is run by local villagers, with all moneies ... read more

There are great things to be said about waking up at home. Even if it's not exactly your home. All 3 of us slept in, and lord knows we needed it. It was very comforting to be at Jerry's house. I had wondered for years where Jerry slept, and now here I was...waking up actually IN in. I lingered under the mosquito net simply because I could. Jerry brought me coffee. We were all moving slowly. Reading magazines while drinking coffee, eventually we each took a bath and got ready for the day. We were going to tour the village. The village where Jerry lives. Awesome. Paula was over by the stove, chatting about something, when she let out a serious yelp and told us that she had just been stung on the knuckle of her ... read more