Peru

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Ahh the mountains. What is it about altitude and seeing jagged snowy peaks in the sky that gets me excited? I'm sitting here in Huaraz typing and habitually glancing out the window at Huascaran of the Cordillera Blanca. This is the mountain range I'd read about and which inspired me to make the RTW trip in the first place. It's an odd feeling to be here nearly 6 months on, still with twinges of the travel fatigue, still with excitement about further travel.

Lima was a bit of a rude shock and not a place I felt inspired to spend more than a day. In fact it took me a couple of days to reconcile what I saw, particularly in the impoverished camps of outer reaches of the city during the bus trip north. Aclimatising to the dust, chaos and rubble after comfy, affluent western Europe has taken a little while. I feel myself shifting back into Asia mode.

After then aclimatising to altitude of Huaraz, I decided to avoid the somewhat overpriced organised tours, and put up a notice at the guide house looking for trekking partners. After a couple of days, with a hastily assembled group of 4 (2 Frenchies, a Canadian, a Swiss) I made a 5-day trek by Alpamayo and Santa Cruz.

A fair bit of organisation and effort went in (food, equipment, mule driver and mule hire etc..) but it was absolutely worth it. It is something pretty special not just to walk in these mountains, but with four strangers from different parts of the world, all looking after eachother, preparing meals together, completely enjoying eachothers company, singing 'The Final Countdown' ad nauseum... Anyway I think my smiles tell the story just fine - or maybe it was the coca leaves 😊

I've found a really comfortable, relaxed hostal to stay in, which has a good mix of like-minded guests. South America travellers seem to be a very different breed. Most I've met are on very extended trips - 6 months to a year seems to be average. Some others have been living in communities for months and are on a travel break before returning to some volunteer teaching or pig fence building project. Almost everyone speaks good Spanish. A few even speak Quechua. I've been feeling a little out of my depth actually, and although I am managing to get by fine, I think it would be best if I stick to the gringo trail.

With a touch of bowel drama I've decided to put my feet up here for a couple of days to just read, surf the web, and do a day mountain biking trip. Tonight its off to Lima and tomorrow Cusco I think...

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Photos

Happy campers
Derwell, Pierre, Me, Andre, Hans

Not so happy campers
These hilltop settlements seemed to be everywhere around Lima

A section of the Pan-Am highway
Sheer drops abound.

Huaraz
From plaza de armas

Church
In Huaraz

Market
In Huaraz

Shopping trip
Last-minute night before trek

Loading up
At Cashapampa (trail head)

On track
Day one

First peek at a peak
With André

The arrieros - gustavo and gabriel
How much does this guy look like Kazu!

Hans & I
Near Punta Union

The valley
Note the coca leaves sticking to the grin. Helps with the altitude - honest!

At the pass
Dodgy photo op.

A moment for reflection
And slight headache

Another trail shot
Down again

For senora's toothache
Just tylenol. We did get a couple of grams of marching powder in exchange. Woo hoo! :)

Comments

[mammamia]

The cheer squad from OZ
Ahhh Andy... what a truly fabulous adventure! We read your blog and marvel at your experiences. What a delight for us back here in 'Bris Vegas' this has been, urging you on, loving your brilliant photos. The stories are great and it is impossible not to be impressed with your ability to travel on alone, absorbing the travel ups-and-downs, transforming strangers into friends, fending for yourself. You are a legend! Well done! Luv from the clan