"Up Country" to the central mountains: Nuwara Eliya (AKA Little England)

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"Up Country" to the central mountains: Nuwara Eliya (AKA Little England)

Getting a ticket on the train to Nuwara Eliya looked very unlikely, as during the school holidays Sri Lankans are given vouchers for train travel and all the trains were said to be fully booked. However, a person helping us "had a connection" and we finally got two tickets on one of the additional trains that had been added to the normal schedule.

On the morning of our trip, we stood bewildered at the huge Colombo train station, till a helpful man authoritatively took us under his wing, guided us through the entrance gate and signaled us to benches for waiting. He stayed right near us (I was thinking, "What service for confused travellers.") and when when our train came in he hustled us and our luggage onto the train and stowed our larger bags in a little space at the end of the carriage. It was only then that we realized he was a deaf mute and this was his way of earning a living. We were certainly glad he found us!

As the train pulled out, we were puzzled about the "no tickets available" story because the carriage was nearly empty. But a few stops later a large number of people boarded. It turned out they were an extended family going on holidays together, and they'd booked out most of the carriage. Lots of little kindy aged cousins who sang songs and giggled and had a great time. Mothers and mothers-in-law who traded seats up and down the aisle, babies that got passed around. After a few hours out came the food, and the little girls offered it around, even to us and the other strangers in the carriage.

When we finally got to the Nanu Oya station about 7 hours later, an hour and a half late, our driver was still waiting (bless him!) and we headed through the twilight along curving slippery mountain roads under construction till we got to Nuwara Eliya about half an hour later.

The climate was deliciously cooler than the muggy heat of Colombo--one of the reasons the British chose to build houses "up country" during their colonial period. The sister city of Kandy was in fact the location of the British High Command for Asia during WWII. It's also famous for the stupa reportledly housing Buddha's tooth.

Nuwara Eliya still has some large gracious old hotels and a country club, but the downtown area is decidedly Sri Lankan in character. Probably there are English style areas, but we were on foot and didn't find them.

I couldn't understand why I felt headachy and a little weak, till I factored in the change of altitude. We'd gone from sea level to 2,400 metres (over 7000 feet) in a few hours and were staying at nearly the highest place Sri Lanka.

Despite the recurring drizzle, we did have a wander through the marketplace one day and a stroll through the botanic gardens the next. Unfortunately the tea estate we wanted to visit was closed, but that was ok.

Before long it was time to head down the other side of the mountain range to Monoragala and on the way we stopped for a look at a popular Hindu temple built all down a steep slope above a mountain river.

Driving through the internationally famous town of Ella (which I admit I'd never heard of) we saw--for the first time in Sri Lanka--lots of backpackers, getting around in skimpy tops and shorts. "The foreigners come here," our guide told us, as we gazed at such a different-looking crowd.

Some were hiking down the road. "To what?" I wondered. The answer came soon: Rawana Ella Falls. There were onlookers, hawkers, swimmers, and picnickers from the roadside to high up on the rocks, where there were also clusters of wild monkeys scampering around.

Soon we had left the mountains and were in the low eastern farming country and back in the heat.

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Photos

Nuwara Eliya hillside
Neat terraced gardens cover the steep hillsides.

Tea estate
Ever wonder where your cuppa comes from or how it grows? On the cool mountain slopes.

Guest house
This is where we stayed.

Steps after meals
Meals were served in a dining room down by the creek. The first night I climbed these steps after dinner I couldn't figure out why it was such a struggle for me.

Weeding the grass out of the grass
Three women spent three days in the rain, hand weeding the unwanted green grass plants out of this lawn which was meant to be only blue grass.

Saturday Market Nuwara Eliya
You can buy most everything you need at the markets.

Bananas for sale
Giant bunches of bananas are hung at the front of fruit shops, where a man with a long knife will cut off what you want.

Botanic gardens with begonias and pond
The gardens had been replanted almost over night after the weeks of heavy rain, by the 32 gardeners who work here.

Eucalyptus trees
Although Nuwara Eliya is called "little England", the botanic gardens sported many Australian species, including this large stand of gum trees.

Colourful garden with photo spot
Despite the wintry conditions, there was a lot of colour in the gardens, and many many visitors. At the far left of this photo you can see a Muslim couple posing in a little green arcade used for photos.

Lily pond
Lack of sunshine meant a disappointing display by the water lilies.

Pink flowers
OK, I try to get arty now and then.

Hearts and flowers
I couldn't help remembering the heart-shaped garden Beryl and Joy helped me plant to welcome Barbara Murray to our home.

Wayside beauty
And the wild lilies put on their own display along the roadside.

Entrance to Hindu temple
We were reluctant to enter and be tourists amongst the faithful, but we did admire the statuary on the outside.

Temple statuary
The gods and goddesses of Hindu belief are portrayed around the exterior of the temple.

Temple details
Here's a closer look.

Temple towers
Looking down the hillside.

Rawana Ella Falls
One of the highest waterfalls in Sri Lanka, it's a fascinatingly varied falls.

Martha and Phil
Joining the crowds of waterfall admirers.

Comments

[Michelle]

Good to see you again !
Glad you're still enjoying your travels. M xx

[HZ]

Calm mountains
The pictures show a very calm and peaceful place to visit. It must be famous for ceylon tea too?

[becky]

Hello sister and Phil
What an adventure you are on...or as Dad would have said, "She's gone down the rabbit hole."

[Nathan]

nice picture
what a beautiful place and pictures..... thanks for free picnic show for me. I am shamed to say as Srilankan. because I have not been there by the cruel war. I do not know still I can go there even war is not there. wonderfull. enjoy.....!!

[Hilary]

Lovely to see you enjoying yourselves and continuing your adventures
Hi Martha and Phil, Thanks for including me in your blog. I love reading your informative and descriptive updates, and to have a glimpse into your adventures. Happy travels!! much love, Hilary