Adventure before Dementia India 2012

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Saturday 03 March

We are up at 06.00 as the hotel has a 24 hour check in/out policy.I take my bags down on time but as when I arrived everyone is asleep on the floor. I pay my 500 rups and leave my ruck with the hotel and lady luck.

This morning I am off to the Karni Mata temple at Deshnok one of the more unusual temples in India. Its also known as the Rat Temple

The Cheran cast of musicians believe that the incarnations of the goddess Dura appear to them one of whom is Karni Mata. As the legend goes one of the followers had a ill son, but by the time KM arrives he had died. KM went to Yama the god of the underworld to ask for him back but Yama refused. Only rats are outside the control of Yama so KM decreed that henceforth Cherans would be reincarnated as rats. It is the sacred rats (kabas) that are in the temple.

In backpacker style i get my map out and walk the early quiet streets of Bikaner to get the bus to Deshnok. its about 2.5 k and is not a problem a bus is there as I arrive.

The bus is packed with workers and I sit with a teacher who wants to know the usual stuff - wife kids job and to see photos of same.

I arrive in Deshnok within the hour and get off on the main road. The temple is a further k away and a rick driver bekons me over for 5 rupees as he already has a family of 4 on board. I climb upfront and hang on as we shoot down the road.

I do not go straight to the temple but to a roadside dhaba (cafe) for chai and biscuits. A tourist bus of french people so I take my time as the driver sits with me and tells me they will be half an hour.

I am joined by a party of young girls from the state Haryana who giggle alot and ask my name etc. They take photos and give Namkeen (google it) and another sweet biscuit from their tiffin tin.

I move on to the temple which I have smelt for some distance. I leave my sandals over the road and refuse socks and a type of slipper. Lets have the full on rat experience.

The smell is overpowering and the rats are eveywhere. The main yard is bad but inside the small temple room it is really difficult as the smell is trebor extra strong. Its not too bad when stood still but when devotees come in and strike the prayer bell the rats scurry all over.

A wierd experience but to see devotees come in and kiss the floor and then each icon and then kiss there hands is a humbling sight of faith. A women brings in a brightly coloured plate of something the rats are expecting and like, she is soon surrounded.

Time to leave and let people do what people do each to there own.

I have a walk round the small town of Deshnok, there is nothing here but the temple at least KM brings them tourists by the bus load.

Not to everyones liking but you cannot get round faith in Deshnok it transends all
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I return as i came on the bus, a good day with what for me is real India.

Off to Jalsalmer tonight to see the magical fort in the desert. On the 22.35 train, only 1st class AC on this train at the outrageous price of 461 rups arrive in the morning at 04.30


Life is Humbling - Life is Good - Namaste Paul

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Comments

[Kate]

Rat Temple
Wonderful account of your time at the Rat Temple...........but walking with the rats!